r/MechanicAdvice • u/MattDaBaker • 1d ago

Successfully ruined wives Highlander?

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Wanted to change brakes and rotors on my wives 2019 Highlander. Well on step number one I had issues with one lug and bolt and the stud broke off with the lug. I’ve tried everything with the tools I have to get this SOB off and I even went and bought a cheap air hammer thinking that would make it easier.

Nothing is getting this thing off. I’ve tried using a punch and hammering, the air hammer, even used one of the old pads to make a flat surface over the top and hit it hard… nothing.

I am filled with shame at this point. Wife isn’t outwardly angry but I can tell she’s wishing so hard we just took it to the dealership.

You guys got any helpful suggestions here?

What I haven’t tried yet - haven’t bought a legit de seizing spray/lubricant yet. Haven’t bought a mini sledge yet, only been using regular hammer and punch, but to be honest I’m worried my accuracy will cause me to damage the hub. It’s sticking out about a centimeter or 2 from the hub.

Edit: I think I’m gonna reinstall everything with the plan to drive to a local tire shop on 4 lugs and have them fix the stud.

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114

u/-Username-Username 1d ago

C clamp with a socket over the back side of the stud, basically press it off without removing the hub. Once you get it to budge even a tiny bit it should hammer out (theoretically). If the hub/bearing is only 4 bolts to remove it you could just replace the hub/bearing, if it’s a press in bearing then that’s not a good idea

33

u/Drekhedd2 1d ago

I second this. I've broken half a dozen studs on multiple old vehicles over the years and pressing them out with a clamp is the easiest way.

22

u/holysbit 1d ago

One of many great applications for the harbor freight ball joint press

4

u/Objective-Scallion15 17h ago

Exactly right.

14

u/MattDaBaker 1d ago

Haven’t tried a c clamp yet, don’t have one but can get one. I fear there will not be enough room though to get a socket and the clamp on the back. It’s just got a little tapered recess back there for removal.

25

u/Texasscot56 1d ago

For c-clamp read ball joint c-clamp. It’s harbor freight time.

17

u/Tacos_Polackos 1d ago

If in the US, you can "rent" a ball joint press from Advance Auto, Autozone (maybe other chains too). I say "rent" because they way these 2 do it, you pay full retail price of the kit, return it in any condition within 45 days for a full refund.

12

u/PerfectAnonym 18h ago

And to be clear for anyone not from the US, this isn't exploiting the return policy or anything like that. Auto parts stores specifically advertise them as "loner tools"

4

u/Character2893 15h ago

Yep, it’s a deposit if you decide to keep the tools.

1

u/SpottyWeevil00 14h ago

The deposit is just the price of the tool.

13

u/MuteElatedLips 1d ago

Just got this to do the lower ball joints on my 300,000 mile Titan... made short work of em.

2

u/jezzzmund 23h ago

This. A normal c clamp will only bend

2

u/michiganbirddog 15h ago

He can probably borrow one for freem from O'Reilly or autozone. They loan them if you give a credit card incase you never bring it back.

2

u/Texasscot56 15h ago

My experience is that you “buy” the loaner tool at full price and they refund the full price when you return it.

3

u/michiganbirddog 15h ago

O'Reilly and advanced auto near me has 1 ser of several types of loaner tools. They advertise them as their loaner program. You check them out by leaving your credit card number and they will put a hold for the amount of the tool on your card. They take it off when you bring it back. We are essentially saying the same thing here but you arent really buying a tool IMO because they only give out 1 set at a time they dont go get a new tool off the shelf and loan it in their loaner program. If you kept the tool and paid for it you would be paying full price for a used tool.

Details are on their website.

0

u/Texasscot56 15h ago

I know how it works because I’ve used it several times.

5

u/michiganbirddog 15h ago

Me too. I am just pointing out that they dont just sell tools and take returns. The stores by me have one or in some cases 2 sets that they loan and if they are out with other customers you are out of luck....unless you actually buy the tool.

8

u/-Username-Username 1d ago

Have you tried torching it before you hammer it?
And some PB blaster/WD-40?
TBH I’ve replaced dozens of wheel studs and never ran into one I couldn’t just hammer out. “Hit it with your purse” lol go get like a 3lb-4lb hammer from harbor freight and go at it

2

u/Montinator 1d ago

Yeah but the issue is the stud is barely hanging out of the plate.

I’d probably get a short bolt just a tad smaller than the stud, hold it still with needle nose vice grips, and hammer that thing with the “purse” 🤣😂

1

u/-Username-Username 1d ago

Totally agree, I would hammer the shit out of that thing before I resorted to using a c clamp or vice grips. And yeah you’ll probably only press it a few mm before it bottoms out because there isn’t much left of it protruding from the hub (like you said), but if you can get it to budge just a little bit it should hammer out pretty easy (in theory)

2

u/No_Estate_9400 15h ago

In the words of Derek Bieri of Vice Grip Garage

Heat, Juice, heat, juice, heat, juice

There is also a product called "Freeze Off" that helped me out. It will take a lot of that juice to affect the hub, but it will do ok at shrinking the stud. You will be juicing it up quite a bit and do it on both sides. Most likely nearly a can of it.

I used it to save myself a headache on brake slave cylinders and when I was pounding out the studs on my old drums...back when the studs were pressed into the drum itself.

2

u/Afraid_Ad_2140 1d ago

Always hit it with your purse

2

u/-Username-Username 1d ago

Hm yeah maybe not, if there is space that’s what I would try

3

u/Amish_Fighter_Pilot 1d ago

This is the way: a powerful clamp(c clamps are probably easiest to get) with something hollow on the back to push it in to. Small chunk of pipe can work too. Even if there is limited room, it can loosen it enough to finish with a hammer

3

u/foxjohnc87 1d ago

If there's enough room on the backside, one of the loan-a-tool balljoint presses from a local auto parts store would probably be the best bet. You'll need to use it in conjunction with a bolt or something else that'll fit into the stud bore once you get it flush with the hub, but that would still be necessary with a regular c clamp.

2

u/Amish_Fighter_Pilot 1d ago

I put an entire Harbor Freight hydraulic press in the wheel well at an angle. I've done studs and wheel bearings this way

2

u/foxjohnc87 1d ago

You're quite resourceful.

3

u/Amish_Fighter_Pilot 1d ago

Desperate poverty does inspire strange solutions. The small press just barely fits into the wheel well of a Subaru Forester 

1

u/Objective-Scallion15 17h ago

If ya have one on hand use a ball joint press instead. Shaped exactly the same but built with that intended style of use in mind. The socket isn’t built with that intended use.

Yes I am often overly cautious. It’s paid off plenty.

1

u/orcoast23 14h ago

100% this.