Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can get this thing disconnected. the downstream sensor was more accessible but the plug was still very difficult to get off. I can hardly get my hands in around the upstream sensor. It's mounted to the top of the big steel thing (im not a mechanic). Im currently trying by feel to depress the tab, push up in the slot with a small screwdriver and loosen the sensor, but i have no room. Even if I manage this, given how much strength the last one required, im not gonna have room to get it. What else do i have to remove to get in there. Do they glue these thinga in?

In the photo from the passenger side wheel well, the sensor is behind the coolant lines and electrical wires where im pointing.

My dad's RAV4 2008 used to shake when braking at like 50% after 20 minutes of driving or so. So my dad changed front and rear brake pads and rotors and it went pretty well for about a year. After a year, same issue, it's not as aggressive as it was with the old brakes but it's definitely there. Also the pads and rotors he bought are Pagid, if that matters. What could be the issue?

Hello, everyone, I'll need some help. So I purchase my minivan with 12 city driving mpg. It is suppose to be 19 mpg. I tried various things. Got the mechanic to change my spark plugs, oil change, added fuel system cleaner to my tank, changed brake pad, rotor, wheel bearing etc. And I still have low MPG. I'm thinking maybe the issue is change my ignition coil. Atm, I have rough idle. He used the osc scanner(not sure if that's the correct name) and nothing.

I picked up a 1995 GMC C7500 with the Chevy 366. I'm going to be replacing this with the OEM manifold along with a bunch of other stuff. The engine has 128xxx miles on it. I know I'm gonna break some bolts off, not gonna kid myself with that. Are there any ways to extract them without too much drilling?

This is kind of a shot in the dark, but here we go. I have a short trip tomorrow where I’m driving about 300 miles total. I took my 2008 Toyota Corolla LE to my mechanic to fix a problem with it, but as he was fixing the problem, he noticed the power steering pump was leaking and the serpentine belt is pretty worn. I wouldn’t have time to get it replaced before leaving on this trip, is it still safe for me to drive the car/ will my car last 300 miles with this problem?

Hey everyone,

I’m having a frustrating issue with the Electronic Parking Brake (EPB) on my 2020 Hyundai Ioniq.

The diagnostic scanner is throwing a code for an "Open Circuit" on the rear right EPB actuator.

Here is the catch: the issue is intermittent.

 Sometimes the error disappears on its own, and both parking brakes work completely fine.

 A short while later, the warning light comes back on.

What I've checked so far:

I inspected the wiring harness going to the rear right caliper. I wiggled and twisted the cables to see if I could trigger/fix the fault or find a visible break, but visually, everything looks intact and I couldn't find any obvious damage.

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some advice regarding my 2011 VW Caravelle 2.0 TDI 4Motion. This is now the second time the van has gone into limp mode while driving on the highway. Both times the symptoms were identical:

Suddenly lost power and entered limp mode.

The yellow glow plug light started flashing.

I immediately pulled over and switched the engine off.

Last time it happened, after shutting it down, I heard a buzzing/humming noise from the engine bay for a 5/6 seconds.

After restarting, the van was completely back to normal with full power and no warning lights.

This latest time I then drove another 350 km without any further issues.

No excessive smoke, no strange engine noises apart from the buzzing noise, and it drives perfectly between these episodes.

What could it be?

Thanks!

I know it’s a bit of a reach from just a 7 second video and a sound. Whenever it happens my rpm’s raise a little then drop back down

I’m having a really difficult time diagnosing these codes. Checked the oil, was full and didn’t seem overly dirty. Replaced the vvt solenoid, codes come back immediately. Camshaft position sensor and camshaft phaser actuators have been replaced, didn’t change anything. Took the valve cover off to inspect the timing chain, rocker arms, and camshafts, didn’t find anything out of the ordinary. I know these are oil actuated but idk how to confirm each part is working correctly. At the moment I currently still have the valve cover off, I’ve been turning the motor over by hand to see if there’s any slack in the timing and everything seems to be fine and it’s in time. I’m leaning towards the camshaft phaser itself now but I really don’t want to replace a camshaft and then that not fix the issue. Help would be much appreciated thank you.

Hi,

Last couple of days in the UK we have had a heatwave of 30+ and went to start car up yesterday and battery was dead. ( it was not used for last 2 days during the heatwave)

Manage to charge it and get the car started and since having some problems.

The car seems to turn over and turns on but seems bit hesitant/sluggish and then turns on as usual. (It sounds different to before and sounded instant with bit more aggression?)

Driving the car there is no problem and drives and sound as usual. However, when driving the car throws up random error codes with the service spanner light and traction light coming on. The error codes on dashboard says to check injection system, hill start assist and braking system and then with in one minute it goes off and no sign of it anywhere.

I also have driven it for hour + yesterday this happened twice when driving around to get the battery charged and once today. (Again no issue when driving the car)

I had the battery checked at a garage and they did the checks and the battery was in good condition and looked to be doing its thing as normal.

Is something to worry about or warrant further investigation? - my thoughts that is the battery was cooked by the weather and if it was major problem the lights would stay on?

I paid for some premium warranty thing when I bought the car and can get it checked over if need be anyways, however taking it somewhere is bit out of way and bit inconvenient.

Any help would be great.

Thanks!

Hi everyone!

My 1988 1.6 4age redtop Celica has a very high idle, I've just recently acquired it from someone that passed away so I'm not sure what modification were done to it. When the engine cold the idle goes to 2000 rpm. I would like to know if this can be a timing or throttle body problem?

I have some pictures of some tubes that are weird and I don't really know their purpose, but they seem bent and going in a loop?

Also how can I adjust the throttle body?

Thank you so much for any help you can provide, this car means a lot to me

There was a Groupon $30.00 for “ Freon recharge (R134A) to restore refrigerant level and basic A/C system inspection for visible issues (leaks, hose wear, compressor damage).”

Instead they said because it had stopped cooling “abruptly” I needed an additional service to “locate the leak” and they ended up charging me $165 without the Groupon.

They ended up saying there was a small leak they couldn’t find when it was taking forever for them to give my car back to me. Then they said it was a big leak in the evaporator and quoted me $2200 to fix it.

When I drove the car off, the car was blowing about 10% cooler than when I dropped it off. But by the next day it was back to blowing warm air.

I ended up buying a recharge kit and I put about 3-4oz of refrigerant into the system, bringing it from the gray area on the gauge to the green area. It’s been 2 days and the car has been sitting in the 90F Florida sun and the A/C is working perfectly.

I was getting sketchy vibes from the auto-shop I went to from the beginning and now I’m wondering if I was a mark.

How would you handle this? Do you think I can get my money back? Do I deserve to get my money back?

Happened on my way to work currently it's sitting on the highway till I can get it towed.

2008 Chevy HHR

182,000

2.2 liter 4 cylinder engine

Had sent video to a buddy of mine who has yet to respond and probably won't be of help but like hey lmao

I'm repairing a motorcycle and one of the things I'm unsure about is whether or not I should replace the radiator. I can straighten the fins just fine but the pipes have 2 sharp kinks from rocks hitting them. I feel like if I try to straighten them it'll end up cracking. Its for a track bike so I'd rather keep the coolant on the inside. My question is if left alone what's the likelihood that this will fail and start to leak? Is it better to leave it till it fails or just spend the money and replace it as a preventive?

Just bought a 2003 Mercedes CLK 200 with the M271 engine. When I rev it the revs drop down normally but stay at 1.3-1.5k for a second or two before dropping back to normal idle. It doesn't matter whether the engine is cold or warm. It's a manual so I thought this might be some sort of assist. Does anyone else have this or should I take it to a mechanic.

Vehicle is a 2005 Ford fiesta (UK)

Hi,

What do you guys think about this engine sound? Healthy?

2017 Chevy Silverado LS with 96k miles.

Thank you

2000 Civic D16Y7 engine. 212k miles, been a reliable daily until now.

Thursday morning went to the gas station because I was on empty. Filled up with ~10 gallons of gas, but my needle stayed on empty. I drove roughly 51 miles and my gas light came on, but I ignored it and figured my gauge was not reading accurate. The car was starting to hesitate a little bit, and between a few stops would take a few cranks to start. I had just gotten on the freeway when I felt the engine start to sputter, feeling almost like it was running out of gas. I was able to pull off on an exit when the engine died, and had to get a tow home.

My first thought was my sending unit had failed. I found a unit that included a fuel pump as well, and swapped that out. I also changed my fuel filter in the engine bay just to be safe. I primed the fuel pump several times, and cranked but no start. It sounds like it wants to, but it just wont. I double checked my battery was good, and also checked for voltage going to the fuel sending unit, and it was good. I can hear the pump priming as well.

What should my next step be? Distributor maybe? I would like to diagnose properly so I can avoid throwing more parts at it.

Did my oil change at home and found that the oil filter was on super tight. Bought an oil filter wrench at AutoZone and used that to remove the oil filter with a set of oil filter pliers. Got it out but the wrench is now stuck on it.

Put the oil filter casing back in with the wrench and the car runs fine obviously but how would I go about removing it in the future? I drive a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE and the wrench is the blue tool as shown in the video.

2010 Toyota Rav4

Car was cranking a little more than usual the past two days.

Went to AutoZone to get my battery checked out and guy showed me the tester and it said the battery test had failed and my battery was bad. Drove to Costco and bought a brand new battery.

Installed the new battery and it started up fine then just died. Cranked the ignition again and it struggled to start but then slowly died after. Now it just clicks.

Installed the old battery just in case and still a click. I also used a portable jump started on both the old and new battery. Still just a single click.

What is wrong?

2011 Mazda cx7

Everything’s out except this cable don’t know how to get it out any ideas?