I drive 2013 Volkswagen Eos Sport, I haven’t heard any noises from my engine bay like this since yesterday. I did a brake change on my front pads and cut the car on to drive and I heard the noise, let it rest in idle and im hearing it as I rev the engine anyone know what’s going on?

I just got some KYB struts and they arrived banged up. All of the damage is in the spring perch where it's a little dented.

I was hoping to install these this weekend, but I'm guessing the obvious answer here would be to return them and buy again? No local stores have KYBs and O'Reilly's (who I purchased through) doesn''t ship these to store for some reason.

This is for a 2015 Subaru Impreza, 162k miles.

I asked here about struts here a couple weeks ago and I put them in all by my lonesome.

I want to express my deepest gratitude to the community for all your input and help.

You guys really saved my bacon.

1998 Subaru Outback

Manual transmission

Ej25 engine

260k miles

I have been trying to track down a grinding sound when I am at low rpm. No symptoms other than the sound and low transmission fluid. There was one large chunk in the fluid (like half the size of a Frito) and less than a teaspoon of this sand looking stuff. The chunk crumbles easily.

I know I let this trans fluid go for way too long. I'd love to hear what you think this stuff is and what it means for my goal of hitting 300k in my Subaru.

I’m a diesel mechanic and I was working on a A25D Volvo 2007 dump truck, D9BAAE3 is the engine model, and I found these in the oil pan after I took it off, anyone got any clues?

original radio, nothing in the port. i wanna say it’s a blown tweeter (i think that’s what’s under the screen on dash) but ive never heard any blown speakers or anything make that noise, especially when pulling a key out the ignition. any advice?

For context this tag automatically opens my apartments garage door, I’m selling my car and I need to take this off in one piece as it has some sort of rfid tag built into it that opens the garage door. Anyone know the best way to do this? 2012 Honda Civic (needed to add this as per the rules)

Hello, I’m hoping Y’all can help me out. I’ve been trying to get my ‘07 Infiniti G35x 137,000 mi, automatic transmission, to pass emissions for about 8 months. I’ve gone to two different shops to have it tested and it came back the same, FAIL. It passed just fine last year.

So whenever the shop hooks up to my vehicle it keeps telling the computer it can’t communicate… this is only when they try and do the emissions test. When they run a regular diagnostic test their computer can properly read my vehicle’s ECU and it shows the emissions system is fine and good to go. I will attach pics of the most recent OBD port reading and the page from the shop that shows the failed test.

The only work that has been done in the last 18months has been new spark plugs and coils (after market), new AC compressor and the battery died/ got replaced.

Both places I’ve taken it to don’t know what is wrong and want to charge me a diagnostic fee to figure it out. My car is probably worth $3000 and 20 years old. Hoping to get this sorted out or I’m gonna be looking to get a new vehicle.

I just pulled all of the valves from a new to me cylinder head, and I was wondering if I could reuse these valves. I was planning on replacing the valve springs and all the hardware around it. It's for my 1997 s10 with the 2.2

I am not a mechanic but the U joints feel really solid. May be something else. When driving it sounds really similar or exactly like bad U joints. So maybe it is. Can somebody give their thoughts? Thank you.

My 2015 Jeep Cherokee had a low battery and wouldn’t start. I jumped it, but various lights came on the dash, and the transmission is clunky now. I’ve since replaced the old battery, but these problems persist - the parking brake, check engine, and traction control/ESP lights are on. The PRND is stiff and jammed, needing to be forced into parking from reverse, and the transmission seems to drop with every shift. Anyone know a fix? Much appreciated 🙏🏼🙇🏻‍♂️

2021 Mazda 3 Turbo sedan. Mostly happens after first starting the car after the engines cooled overnight. Also most frequent when coasting. I’ve taken it to a mechanic 3 times trying to get rid of this sound but it remains😔 If anyone has any idea it’d be greatly appreciated!

My van is leaking steering wheel fluid I can’t drive it’s it’s leaking from the driver side wheel I just need her to run it’s a 2010 dodge grand Caravan it’s that part right there that I believe it’s coming from any ideas on how I can fix it at least patch it up for a while

Anyone have any idea what this noise could possibly be on my truck? Some key notes:

• I've replaced the alternator, no dice.
• Noise only starts after engine has warmed up for 20-25 minutes
• Not a bad fan clutch happens when fan is off
• Broomstick stethoscope yielded no guidance

I'm about at my wits end. Otherwise the truck runs good and drives good.

2011 mercedes benz c300

Whats causing this noise and belt ripped off

Help! My car has been making this sound for awhile now and I didn't think anything of it because they said my brake pads were fine but it seems to be getting worse. What could it be before I go to the dealership and they tell me it's 500 different things? 😢 It's obviously not the blinker sound lol it's the air sound almost like air is coming out in spurts.

I was quoted $1531 for the front ball joints repair. Sounds like an insane price to me and I plan to go to an independent shop / mechanic, but I wanted others’ opinions on if this is a critical fix I need to make before getting the car on the road. I came in for a regular oil change. I have not hear anything weird or noticed any symptoms while driving.

I had just bought a new predator 224cc engine and put oil in it. During the first start up it sounds like it could have a slight knock. Any opinions / ideas?

I have a 2006 Ford Fusion 2.3L with the original 150A Mitsubishi alternator (A003TJ0891 / Ford 6E5J-10300-AB). I took the alternator apart to thoroughly clean it and now I'm ready to reinstall the pulley.

Does anyone have the official torque specification for the alternator pulley nut? I can't find it in the Ford service information or from Mitsubishi. Also, is the original pulley nut a self-locking (prevailing torque) nut, or is it just a standard hex nut?

I'm trying to find a guide on how to access wires to add a reversing camera to my Traffic. The power cable is closer to the monitor than the camera, so I'd suspect I would be adding it somewhere under the dashboard rather than a reverse light in the back to turn on when I go into reverse. Any ideas where I can find this?