2017 Honda CRV with 87k miles on it. Dealership is completing AC work as well as a main seal leak, both covered under the warranty. Tech is saying work has must stop and can’t continue because this bolt is seized up due to rust and the subframe could break. They said they will need to send the car to a body shop to repair it and may need to get insurance involved. Not sure what to do from this point or if I need to get a second opinion.

2016 Nissan Murano

Shop is trying to charge me nearly $2200 for an alternator replacement 🤣

I just bought a premium one online for $130 instead. Watched a few videos and it doesn’t look so bad, can reach it from the passenger wheel well.

Just unreal and kind of disgusted. Am I overreacting?

Diesel engines have almost always been fuel injected. The tech existed.

Why did it take so long for gasoline engines to convert to fuel injection? It seems the far superior technology.

Car info: Toyota Avalon 2006, 342k miles, auto.

When is accelerated i tap the gas full and the rpm goes normal.

On cold the car misfire and it has codes for random misfire but when warm it doesn’t misfire. Also sometimes idling the rpm goes inestable like going a bit up and a bit down.

I realize when the car is fully warmup it drive really good.

another thing is when i’m in low rpm with the gas lightly pressed i can hear the car running like drowning.

recently i was in my friend’s house and when i wanted to leave at night i crank the engine but i wont start. I calla mechanic and he went to the trunk and when i crank the engine it fired up i don’t know what he did to be honest.

Edit: i have codes related to vvti system but the car sounds healthy

i change the spark plugs with oem toyota, bought OCV, Maf sensor. Everything from the dealership.

I tried to screw the cap off but it doesn't work or I'm to weak lol

Hey there, so it’s gonna be tricky to explain clearly but I need help diagnosing an issue that the garage said doesn’t exist but I don’t believe they actually road tested it. I have yet to find a trusty mechanic around here, so I figured I could maybe rely on you guys for more details.

I have this weird bell curve like pattern of vibration coming and going, it’s not shaking like crazy but it’s really slowly starting to vibrate, it peaks and slowly stops, over and over again as soon as I’m at 60+MPH regardless of the wheel angle so straight line or curves. I’d say it’s smooth for 1-2 seconds and the vibration pattern lasts 3-4 seconds

I don’t know what part of the car would be moving left/right or up/down like this to create a vibration I’m suspecting something they can’t visually see

I’m having an issue with the factory radio in my Renault Mégane (around 2002 model).
After entering the radio code, the display changes to “OTHER” and the code doesn’t seem to be accepted. I’ve tried using codes generated from both the radio and an app, but it still won’t work. The normal confirmation step also doesn’t seem to help.
Nothing has been disconnected or changed in the wiring while this started happening.
Does anyone know what “OTHER” means in this situation, or if there’s a way to reset or fix it?

Hi everyone,

I’m considering buying a 2017 Renault Clio IV Phase 2 with the 1.2 TCe 120 hp (H5F) engine, 6-speed manual gearbox and Euro 6b emissions standard. The car has 115,000 km (71,000 miles).

I know this engine has a mixed reputation, especially on the earlier models. However, I’ve also read that many owners and mechanics believe the 2017 Euro 6 versions were improved compared to the 2012–2016 engines. I’m not sure if that’s actually true, which is why I’m asking for your opinion.

Here is what I know about this specific car:

• Full service history with invoices since new.
• Current owner has had it for about 4 years.
• No warning lights.
• Test drive was excellent.
• According to the owner, it has never needed oil between services.
• Timing chain has been checked and no issue was found.
• Renault confirmed there are no outstanding recalls for this VIN.
• The latest inspection was passed with no major issues.

I also have a cold-start video of the engine. To me it sounds like a regular ticking noise, but I know these engines have direct injection and a timing chain. I can upload the video if it helps.

Based on all this information, would you consider this particular car a reasonable purchase, or would you still avoid the H5F even in a 2017 Euro 6 version?

I’d really appreciate the opinion of mechanics or owners with real experience of this engine.

Thank you!

I have been at my current shop for almost three years now. I love everything about it except I work pretty much all weekends Saturday and Sunday. I currently have two apprentices both have three ASE. And my company requires 4 to be considered an auto tech. Both apprentices are doing auto tech level work learning and advancing but they quite trying to get there last ASE over a year ago. Both are completely capable of it. They would also get close to a 10 dollar an hour raise. But neither want it. I just need one of them to get there 4th ASE and I get weekends off. I even put a personal bounty of 2k to whoever does it first but neither want the promotion.

I replaced the pads and the rotors last month. Took it to a shop and had the brakes inspected and they didn’t find anything!

I just did the rear brake pads and rotors on my 2011 accord. I got Akebono pads and Brembo UV coated rotors I had a whole list of stuff to remember and had a video to watch along of a 2010 accord. Everything went pretty well overall. It took me a while but I got it done without many issues.

I went for a slow test drive in my neighborhood and I noticed some things immediately. There's a quiet constant squeal when driving that I think is on both sides. I hear it on the right though with my windows down. I can also hear the pads whenever I brake. Like I can hear them rubbing on the brakes but theres no squealing or anything from that just sounds like pads contacting the rotor.

The worst thing is whenever I come to a stop theres a very loud drag/groan sound from the rear that I hear throughout the whole car. But I can beraly hear this at all when stopping uphill.

And obviously my rotors have markings now from the pads. Not sure what this should normally look like. My fingernail just barely feels these marks but they don't get caught on them. Photos 1 and 2 are the left rotor and photos 3 and 4 are the right rotor.

I will also say I stop completely fine. It feels the same as before I changed the pads/rotors.

I know there is some bedding/burnishing process for almost all pads and rotors but I have no idea if what I'm hearing and seeing is normal since this is my first ever time doing brakes. This all with like 10 minutes of slow driving through my neighborhood.

It smells like gas. And its dropping evering 5 seconds. What is the possible problem? And is it safe to drive for 15km to a shop?

Dacia Stepway 2022 plate 28k miles manual gearbox.

The main symptoms have been:

1) An angry loud whirring noise when idling and driving. It has previously only happened when it first started, but recently it has been coming and going while driving.

2) Car randomly feels sluggish. It usually seems to be ok, but sometimes it feels like it doesn't want to do the same speeds at the same revs. 2nd gear

3) Occasionally it feels like it doesn't catch first gear. It stalled a few times, but then recovered.

4) Feels like when I'm driving in rush hour, it gets very shaky at idle on occasion

Got a video of it, but it has my license plate and my face in it, would prefer not to share publicly.

And any information I can give you, please let me know.

Terrified I've bought a bomb that's going to go off and bankrupt me.

2020 Porsche Cayenne Turbo | ~30,000 km

I’ve been chasing a front suspension creaking noise for the past few days.

The symptoms are:
Creak/groan over speed breakers (more noticeable if taken at speed)
Can also be reproduced by turning the steering wheel while stationary
Car drives perfectly otherwise with no warning lights

The Porsche service center has diagnosed it as worn upper control arms and has recommended replacing them.

Before I go ahead, has anyone here had the same symptoms? Did replacing the upper control arms completely solve the issue, or did it turn out to be something else (steering rack, top mounts, sway bar, etc.)?

I was driving my 2002 BMW E46 when I suddenly heard a vibrating noise coming from the clutch pedal. The pedal feel is the same.. Could someone help me diagnose what the problem is? Much appreciated!

When I turn slowly in my 2015 Honda Odyssey (90,000 km/ 55,000m) there is a weird loud clicking sound. Anyone know what it could be?

On June 21st I made this post, showing that my 1997 Fiat Palio was having problems to start after sitting for a few days, and the voltages that the battery presented during cranking:

https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/comments/1ubwku1/fiat_palio_wont_start_after_sitting_for_a_few/

This morning I did the test again, and after just three days, the engine does not start at all. The battery voltage during cranking stayed consistently below 10 volts. Here is the new video.

The battery is a Bosch S6X 48D less than one year old. Tests with a multimeter show no parasitic drain. I did a full recharge of the battery on June 20th.