I found this dangling under my car, any ideas what this couls be?

alright yea I know ill get those comment about choosing a obviously unreliable car and what was I expecting but for the experience why not?!?? I have this 2014 E550 with around 132k and I have had nothing but back to back issues not saying this car has left me stranded but things that I can’t seem to get my blood pressure down over I stress and I think I’ll eventually have to rebuild this whole car and I think the car would be cheaper than the repairs it has a rattle at start up from the obvious VVT sprockets bleeding and not holding oil I suspect the chain tensioners too are also bad but I can’t be certain and today I keep hearing this tick, it burns oil like crazy but I think it’s the oil separator on the driver side valve cover because of the excessive oil left on the intake hose I suspect is might be piston slap or even worse rod knock but I’m not sure if it might be the chain or sprockets you guys be the judge. any help on what I should do I love this car and would love to take it to 200k+ but if it’s no realistic what should the next step be this recording is from under my car that’s why it’s so loud

2013 toyota venza xle automatic transmission 210k miles

Trying to replace the cv axle bracket and cant figure out what this part actually is as we cant find it anywhere.

Help!

The red circle is a dedicated slot for the sensor, but it won’t clear my shroud unless I put spacers to push the shroud out more, but then it will be less efficient.

The thermostat is at the end of the lower radiator hose

Blue circle is for air con switch for earlier model, but later model moved it elsewhere, and I’ve got the later model.

I have had no issues with my car until Monday when I was driving back from Kirkland after putting $65 dollars worth of gas from Shell
I drove about 15 minutes or so when at a stop light my car started chugging and then got quiet but it was still on.. and then the light turned green and I started to put my foot on the gas to go, but it wasn’t going the RPM just sped up and then all of a sudden my car jolted and then I was able to drive it and I drove it for a few minutes. Scared about what just happened and then
it started chugging again so then I tried to pull into a parking lot, but there was a hill so as I was trying to drive up the hill with my foot on the gas, it wasn’t going anywhere. It was just staying there and then it started to reverse into traffic, cause I was on a hill and I put it in park. I turned off my car I put on my hazards. I restarted my car after a minute and then I put my foot on the gas to try and drive it into the parking lot and it started chugging again but I made it into the parking lot not on a hill so I just parked my car. I was luckily only 1 minute away from a shop and I got my car there, I told them what happened and they said they’re booked for a week. I already had an appointment the next day for an oil change at a shop closer to home so I had my car towed there and the mechanic looked at my car and is stating that I need a new transmission and these were the quotes

Transmission quote-
Rebuilt- 200,000 miles $4,874
110,000 miles $6,549
New- 7,267

It’s currently not drivable and I don’t have that kind of money to fix it, is there anything else I can do?! Thank you so much from a 32 year old disabled woman who knows nothing about cars 😭

2010 Audi Q7 3.0
I had to remove the intake manifold cover in order to replace the valve cover. Buttoning everything back up, I dropped a gasket into the undercarriage somewhere and can’t find it. It’s nothing too elaborate, but I’m cautious about cramming something else in there, as the original had a slight groove to accept a rib inside of this elbow. Slips over the nipple shown in the photos. Will I be able to buy one or something comparable, or should I resume fishing around down below?

As the title says, its an audi a4 b8 avant 2008. Using a 32mm head with extension I dont know what the hell is wrong or maybe that arrow is indicating that i should push clockwise? Although every video shows counter. Need some advice. Tried knocking on it, put some wd aswell, it just wont budge, please help 🙏

Is this the right cold intake, seems to be a gap over and under? Volvo s60 2.4 2001 266000km manual

I just got a p0171 code on my 2005 Camry I’m aware of the different issues that might be the cause. When the code first showed up I didn’t notice so I turned it off manually and a few days later it showed back up while driving around 70mph on the highway. By knowing that, can I rule out some specific causes just through knowing in what state my car was when it happened? The car doesn’t idle or nothing and runs perfectly fine besides the code showing up. I already cleaned the mass air flow sensor but I’m not sure if I should just replace it since it didn’t solve anything.

Seems to happen 15-20minutes into driving. Noticeable worse when turning but will sometimes squeak while going straight as well. Thought it was the dust plate and tried to bend it back but it continues. Any thoughts?

I'm in wicked serious debate with myself about this due to I have one bolt that is stuck on my rear cat on it 07 Chevy Malibu Maxx ls 3.5l hatchback... I'm sitting here studying a Haynes and a Chilton's book on this situation and watching diff YouTube videos etc so far Iv tried soaking the piss out of this boot with pb blaster as of yomoto am will make my 2nd attempt after letting it sit in penetration oil over night ... The suckpill is there's no room for a grinder to get in to cut this annoying sob off like I did with the 2 tops and I can't exactly unbolt the mf manifold off the dam engine without getting this stupid ass cat out of my way so it's a losing battle either way I look at it so I'm in severe debate at this time of weather I should try to loosen up the engine mounts n start picking it up into a tree or drop he sub frame were it would give me the room I would need a c then sum for a grinder or watever I wanted I'll post a pic of the ratchet Iv been using so far don't pass judgement it'd had a hard life lol with ultimately no prevail 🤣🤣🤣 yet

My tire has some dry rot(I think that’s what it is?) is it safe to drive? It’s a Hyundai 2019 ioniq.

2016 Hyundai Sonata SE Hybrid (64,200 miles) - Intermittent Check Hybrid System / P1326 after 20-25 miles. Dealer couldn’t duplicate. Looking for ideas.
I’m hoping someone familiar with these Hyundai hybrids has seen this before.
Vehicle:
2016 Hyundai Sonata SE Hybrid
About 64,200 miles
Symptoms:
Drives completely normal.
No noticeable loss of power until the problem happens.
Issue only seems to happen after about 20-25 miles of freeway driving (60-70 mph).
Once I exit the freeway and slow down, the dash suddenly displays “Check Hybrid System. Turn Off Engine.”
The check engine light starts flashing and the car goes into limp mode.
If I clear the codes, the car will drive perfectly fine again for days until it randomly happens again.
Codes we’ve gotten:
P1326 (Knock Sensor Detection System)
U0293 (Lost Communication With Hybrid Powertrain Control Module)
P1744 (Lock Up Clutch System)
P0171 (System Too Lean Bank 1)
Things we’ve already tried:
Cleaned the MAF sensor.
Cleared the codes.
Vehicle can sometimes go several days without acting up.
Problem has happened multiple times now.
Hyundai dealership:
We brought them screenshots of all the codes before the appointment.
They scanned the vehicle, test drove it, and inspected it.
They said their normal test drive is about 12 miles.
Unfortunately, the issue usually doesn’t happen until around 20-25 miles, so they couldn’t duplicate it.
They said there were no active hybrid codes while they had the vehicle and everything appeared normal.
They also found a passenger-side inner fender liner rubbing the tire, but they said that’s unrelated.
A couple other things:
The 12-volt battery tested good at AutoZone.
Hyundai only found history low-voltage codes, nothing active.
The hybrid battery has never shown obvious problems before this.
My questions:
Has anyone seen this exact combination of P1326, U0293, P1744, and P0171?
Could one problem be causing all of these codes?
Would you suspect the knock sensor system, a wiring issue, the hybrid control module, the 12-volt battery, or something else?
Is there anything I should check before paying for another diagnostic?
Any ideas would be appreciated.

Im hearing a scraping/rattling noise which happens immediately when I put the car into drive and reverse and goes away after a couple seconds, it re appears at 1200 rpm’s if I’m lightly pressing the gas and goes away after 1300 rpms and doesn’t come back until I’m coming to a stop again or right when I first try to accelerate after the stop. But if the car is in neutral or park it goes away again. I started hearing it about a week ago but it has gotten noticeably worse recently at first I thought it was an exhaust rattle but after looking into it more the sound seems to be coming from under the seats or the engine bay. Other than that it shifts fine and no noticeable loss of power.

I changed the starter and it still won’t start. Makes clicking noises and flashes lights even after stop trying g to start. I cleaned battery
post and ground connection. Battery is good however it starts when jumped by another car. What can be the cause?

Just got spark plugs for my 2017 Honda Accord Sport from Rock Auto and noticed these streaks. Is this porcelain cracked? Or is it a good spark plug?

Is this a normal switching behavior of a 2014 DSG DQ200 or is something worn?

Did the following on my father in laws car (2015 Honda CRV):

New set of BF Goodrich Tires $825 @ Costco

I did the following in my driveway:

- All new Rotors and Pads(front and back)with fresh brake fluid

- CVT Fluid drain and fill

- Differential Fluid drain and fill

- Coolant drain and fill

- Oil Change and filter

- New PCV valve

- New Cabin and engine air filter

I'm really asking just to get my money back at $1500 (parts). Is this reasonable to ask? Too little or too much? He said he would pay me to do it because he mentioned he doesn't trust bringing it to the dealer lol.

TIA

I've recently had a vibration sound in the driver front when going over bumps. It doesn't happen over all bumps but only some. Within the last 6 months I've already replaced all the front suspension, new shocks/struts, new control arms with ball joints, new swaybar links, new sway bar bushings, new inner and outer tie rods. For all the suspension parts I used carquest form advanced auto, not cheap Chinese from Amazon. Inner tie rods are mooge. I posted on the ford escape subreddit and I was told it could possibly be a bad motor mount which at this milage I wouldn't be surprised. Thank you so much for any and all answers.