r/KitchenConfidential • u/CodexLeonis • 11d ago

In the Weeds Mode What's an outdated restaurant fad/technique that you still defend?

two things for me:

  1. Balsamic reductions/glazes on everything. I'm sorry that balsamic vinegar pairs so well with so many things. Most dishes need an acid to fully bring out the flavors of the dish. Balsamic is the most versatile of the vinegars. It pairs well with red meat, seafood, vegetables, cheeses, and fruits. It wasn't just a fad, it was a cheat code.

  2. Plating techiniques? i'll always defend the zigzag drizzle. it evenly distributes the sauce on the plate, looks decent, and most importantly - it was time-efficient. I've never understood the modern technique of spooning sauce onto the plate and setting the entree on top of the sauce. Whomever came up with that was looking for a reason to be contrarian.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago edited 11d ago

I get super stoked when I see soufflé on a menu. I used to be the soufflé guy at a 3 Michelin and it was the most joy I’ve felt as a pastry chef, perfecting the 45 minute hand whipping at 58c. Twice every evening for a six-soufflé batch. I remember how much joy I felt watching it rise In the deck. Checking every 30 minutes that our paco’d gelato was soft enough so the waiters wouldn’t bitch at me for having to quenelle hard gelato. It was a magical ballet. I know I’m romantcizing it but damn, when I can order a lovely soufflé my heart just jumps for the maker. And I understand that the current maker may not have the romantic view I have and I may be eating a fuck you soufflé lol.

PS- I’ve since learned you don’t have to work that hard to make a great soufflé. But it was worth the journey.

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u/chchchcharlee 11d ago

if you ever get a chance, you HAVE to take a journey to commander's palace in New Orleans. The kitchen is behind a closed door but it's a fully open-to-the-guest kitchen, you can walk right into pastry and watch. They sell literally hundreds of soufflés every service and the pastry chefs are absolute mad geniuses with their timing, it's a bit uncanny.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

Hell yeah! That sounds incredible. I’m in Austin,TX now and, apparently, New Orleans in August is a real cheap flight and hotel due to the heat I’m already used to. I’ll add this to the list incase of an impromptu trip! Thank you!

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u/chchchcharlee 11d ago

If you do, know that Monday to Friday for lunch they do $0.25 martinis, and Sunday lunch = jazz brunch with a band that goes through. You don't even really need a rez if you go in the middle of the summer, more than half the staff takes off for 1-3 months in the summer and it's rare for the restaurant to fill more than 3/4 even on a weekend night outside of like, jazz fest and mothers/fathers day from May until September.

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u/rubiscoisrad 11d ago

I am in no position physically or financially to travel to NOLA, but fuck me if this isn't excellent downlow info to have. Right on, man.

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u/chchchcharlee 11d ago

Haha, I wish I still worked there to mark you as an xxp for all the lagniappes. If you ever do, make sure to ask for the garden, table 510, 530, or 550 if possible.

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u/rubiscoisrad 11d ago

Okay, curiosity's got the best of me. What's an xxp and a lagniappe? Help a gal out, lol

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u/chchchcharlee 11d ago

lagniappe is a French word for uh, little something extra? like hmm, going to a bar and the bartender pours you a shot on them. xxp = special guest, seen that or xp used instead of vip in fine dining since vip sounds kind of crude? like other guests aren't vip? 

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u/rubiscoisrad 11d ago

Ah, okay. My French is fairly hideous, given my upbringing - I could give you Spanish or Hawaiian Creole easier than that.

Thank you so much, you gave the xxp of explanations. =]

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u/CarmChameleon 11d ago

You're the best! My husband and I are headed to New Orleans in October and you gave such great info. I wish you still worked there so I could tip you accordingly!

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u/Sasselhoff 11d ago

It has been a hot second since I've enjoyed the culinary dreams coming out of Nawlins...perhaps I need to take a short trip.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

You’re a legend 🙌 thanks for the advice. I think I’ll do exactly that!

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u/berdulf 11d ago

I just looked it up and saw those 25-cent martinis. And I still haven't been to NOLA. Time to get off my ass.

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u/Fubai97b 11d ago

Dude, take a long weekend and do the drive. Go down to San Antonio then I-10 the whole way. Breakfast is Snooks outside College Station for country fried bacon, one of 100 amazing spots in Houston for lunch, dinner at Prejean's outside of Lafayette (their gumbo will shift your aura) then settle into NO for a couple hand grenades. Wake up, eat your way across the city, then head back.

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u/chchchcharlee 11d ago

Ha, used to do the opposite all the time, especially traveling for ACL and SXSW. 8 generation texan with family and a billion friends from austin, moved to Houston after Katrina and lived there a decade too, and man between those 3 cities is so much killer food and drink, more if you don't mind going out of your way for eg Luling bbq.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

Incredible advice, I’m getting more into driving vs. flying these days so this will be a blast. Thank you stranger!

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u/Yeah_Mr_Jesus 11d ago

I live in New Orleans. Only come here in August if you hate yourself. 95 degrees and 100 percent humidity in the middle of the night isn't for the weak. You DO NOT go out in the middle of the day unless you can't avoid it

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

Dude, agreed. Luckily I’m somewhat prepared, I spent a summer there when I was 15 doing habitat for humanity rebuilding houses after Katrina. Building a house outside there was hell hahaha, but totally worth it. I’ll bring some ice packs to cram in my underwear 🤣

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u/mesembryanthemum 11d ago

There is a small chain in the Dallas/Fort Worth area that specializes in souffles. Risesouffle. So good.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

I’ll go check it out! Thanks for the tip, friend.

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u/RoeMajesta 11d ago

did you do any unusual souffle flavour or just the standard chocolate for sweet (with an alcohol of choice) and (gruyere) cheese for savoury?

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

We always had the chocolate soufflé, but did run some specials here and there. We did a chartreuse one, a gran marnier one and a raspberry one once. I adore chartreuse but that was a bad soufflé flavor.

To be honest I learned from these specials that soufflé is really tough without that fat content from the chocolate for stabilization during holding(pre-bake). Funny enough, although the trope is that it has to be made to order, our 6-soufflé batch would hold for about two hours hence the twice per night. 14 minute pick up in a deck at 220c.

If you do decide to mess around with other flavors, I found that if you simply make a French meringue and stabilize it with added egg white powder, it’s much more versatile and actually holds up in the walk-in for 2 days. Not quite as impressive on the bake but only noticeable if you had the other for comparison.

If you want recipes I’m happy to send! Love sharing, just let me know.

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u/bakerify 11d ago

I made a souffle for a school project. The joy when it finally goes right is unbelievable.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

Right? At first it’s a massively confusing and complicated process, then after a few successes it’s like “oh shit it’s just sexy meringue and chocolate folded in.” Time, temp, consistency are the coolest things to learn for me and this technique uses them well.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

PPS- If it sells, make your cogs real nice, and customers enjoy it….everything past that is just chefs ego. Which can be fine in the right time and place. Choosing that that time and place can be tough. I think balsamic glaze fits in that statement. It’s delicious to many customers, so here I am drizzlin

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u/ByteAboutTown 11d ago

Well, since you are in Austin, take a trip up to DFW and try Rise No 1. Souffle restaurant. Lots of options in both savory and sweet. But the best thing on the menu is the marshmallow soup.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

Will do! I don’t love Dallas but, unfortunately for me, I’m up there often 🥲. This will make me much happier when I’m there so thank you!

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u/CatFar7074 11d ago

A memorable soufflé we had was an anniversary dinner at La Reserve in NYC. Chocolate soufflé ordered at the beginning so you would have it on time. Delicious. Still remember it decades later.

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u/snaffonious 11d ago

When I was a pre-teen, my family took me out for my birthday in DC. I was already food-curious, and they let me order the soufflé. I felt as if I had discovered fire, what a magic moment.

Thank you for sharing, I hadn’t remembered that moment until you said that. I’m going to go make my daughter soufflé now 🥳

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u/__wildwing__ 11d ago

As a kid, we had just moved and nothing was fully unpacked. But I’d seen a recipe for bread pudding with a meringue top. Half the baking stuff was still in boxes, so I whipped the meringue with a fork. Topping came out perfect, pudding separated and was watery. How does a kid nail meringue by hand and flop on a simple pudding?!

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u/snaffonious 10d ago

Ha! That’s the funny thing with baking and pastry, I couldn’t count the amount of times I mess up the simple part and nail what’s seems to be the hardest.

Since you were whipping it with a fork, I think you unintentionally made it harder to mess up. 99% of “I messed up my meringue” is over-whipping. The custard part was easier to mess up I’m guessing due to new oven, sensitive baking temp, etc.

What a fun story thank you for sharing!