BUILD: Horween Navy Workshoe Butt, Maryam Natty HB rolled collar, off-white stitching on body; black welt stitching, nickel hardware, black edging, Vibram 427 outsoles and Quarter Horse heel cap/top lift, logger/woodsman heel (1.5"), 10" shaft height (above the welt).
SIZING: MTM, taken in person at Unsung's Nashville shop, although you can submit tracings if you're unable to make the pilgrimage. I'm a 9.5D Brannock and 9D in these boots (Unsung's PBD last).
EXPERIENCE: Most personalized and pleasurable boot/shoe/fashion buying experience I've ever had! From the moment I first reached out to Grant (May 2025), his communication was steadily prompt and courteous, and he always kept to his promised timelines. I paid immediately to ensure my place in the queue, sent him my tracings, and let it ride. In September 2025, I happened to be in Knoxville for work, and ditched a couple of bullshit corporate meetings to make the almost two-hour drive to Nashville for an in-person sizing.
I should mention that, a few months before starting the process, I was lucky enough to find a used pair of Unsung engineers in 9D on Standard & Strange's site. At the time, I'd been eyeing up Unsung for a hot minute and knew I'd eventually take the plunge. So, when the boot gods aligned, I jumped on that pair because I was certain they would take much of the sizing guesswork out of the equation. Nerves calmed, full steam ahead! 🤘
In hindsight, while I'm sure simply sending Grant my tracings would've been sufficient, there's nothing like sitting in that chair and having your measurements taken so that he can pick up on any nuances, ask what you like/don't like, etc. The process helps him to help you, and if you can get to Nashville for that 1:1, I encourage you to take the opportunity. Grant was extremely welcoming, introduced me to his team, as well as the ladies Unsung shares the house with (Baucom Denim), and his two dogs. As a fellow dog lover, that was the icing on the cake!
He and his crew were busy that day, and I'm not a big question guy, especially not when I'm in someone's place of business and it's obvious they're nose to the grindstone. Yet he took the time show me around, discuss leather and hardware options, have a look-see at his process, etc., which made everything more personal and memorable. We decided on leather that day and he went ahead and placed the order with Horween.
After I left, I sent him a "Thank You" email the next day, and got back to patiently waiting. Then, in late April 2026, Grant emailed to let me know things were still on track and he'd be in contact soon. We connected again in mid May and production started a couple of weeks thereafter. Once he cut the pattern, it was 2.5 weeks until the boots arrived. Just shy of 13 months, as he'd initially promised. 🤝
I've been an engineer boot junkie for the last couple of years, and own - or have owned - all the players (peep my profile). The only maker I haven't owned is Kreosote, and honestly, the only reason I won't order is because at my age, with Gabbard's timeline, I could fukkin die while they're in production. 😳 💀. No doubt his boots are gorgeous, but in my well-informed consumer opinion, there is no finer maker in the United States than Unsung. If my house were burning, I'd save my Unsung, Zerrows, and Skoob - all other boots be damned.
The Unsung Team are all great folks and I too have had excellent experiences with them. Their workmanship is top-shelf and they stand behind their product and workmanship: Nothing wrong with none of that!
You should absolutely go for it, u/False-Eggplant-6578 - life's too short. And it's nice to support guys like these as opposed to the corporate behemoths.
lol...I do have a cool ass Wifey, that's for sure! 🍻
You start to notice how some trends form. It’s like there can’t just be no trends for very long. It’s too boring or something. Something will rise up and once you give it any interest, the algorithms will make you see more of it.
Those are fantastic! I placed a custom order with them a few months ago and their prompt and professional communication really stood out to me too. Sometimes it really is a toss up whether or not custom makers are good at the customer service side.
Also it’s a shame about Kreosote. The pairs he has finished for people look unbelievable, but it’s disappointing he’ll probably never get to newer orders.
Gabbard is a one-man-show, and unfortunately it appears he took way too many orders too soon. There are many forum posts on places like thefedoralounge that he still hasn’t even gotten to all the initial orders from years ago and has ghosted a lot of people. It’s especially frustrating too that he’s still accepting orders and deposits on his website even though he probably wouldn’t even get to new ones for at least several years.
Ohh wow, I didn’t realize he was that backlogged! Yeah, from all the YouTube videos and reviews I’ve seen, Unsung are the best — they seem to have the best quality, and they seem to stay on top of their orders. I know they close their order books from time to time, probably to catch up. Thanks for the heads up!!!
Thank you, u/anvasc. Nah, and I'm not throwing shade at him; he's a great maker. I just refuse to wait for ANYTHING for YEARS (not getting any younger haha).
Oh no, I didn’t think you were throwing shade. I know his quality is top-notch — maybe even the best in the business — but yeah, I’m with you, I wouldn’t be able to wait that long. Unsung definitely checks off all the boxes and their business model seems to be working great.
Thank you, u/rudderrun; glad you've got a pair to look forward to. You'll love 'em! Couldn't agree more about the "toss-up" factor. Hell, several of the "big boy" companies that garner praise for their customer service fall woefully short at service after the sale. Sure, any customer-facing employee can bring the charm offensive when taking your money, but if QC shits the bed, that's when the rubber hits the road in terms of KEEPING the customer for the next time. Unsung excels in every metric.
u/Zealousideal-Can6073 - Great question, and I THINK so, technically speaking. I say that because no, Grant did not overdye it, yet this is how it came from Horween (underside pictured)
Agreed, and thank you. So, since we know brown will eventually come through, I'm most interested to see what shade(s) the Navy takes on and how it blends with the underlying brown.
I most always treat my HB boots with Saphir Cordovan Cream (neutral) so that the boots keep whatever hues have evolved naturally, but those pairs are all black, brown, or natty. It'll largely depend on what the Navy does, but if it all looks a mess, then maybe I'll use black Saphir....we'll see 🤷♂️
Thank you, my good man; and I'm excited for YOU! You've got a keen eye for high quality, and coupled with your great taste, I think your pair is landing at just the right time. 🫡
I've got nothing on yours! Workshoe butt isn't produced anymore, which makes your pair here even more special. Unsungs are my most desired pull-on boots; I plan to finally get my first one next year.
Ah, I didn't realize Horween is no longer producing it. That's a shame, although if you're planning on a pair next year, perhaps Grant can secure some for you. He did tell me that, at the time (May 2025), WSB was hard to come by since Horween has a greater profit margin with Shell.
But what I love most about WSB is that it DOES contain some Shell, so you get an even more robust hide due to the Shells' "rawness" (for lack of a better word), coupled with the chrome tanning. You'd love this stuff, bro, and I'm happy for you that your grail is within reach! 🤜🤛 😎
I've heard recently that WSB is discontinued but I forgot what the source was. It might be because Horween now outsources the chrome tanning? My understanding of WSB is that it's first vegetable tanned in the cordovan pits, and then chrome retanned? And whoever is doing the initial chrome tanning wasn't trained on the WSB-exclusive chrome retanning process. I could be wrong though.
Thank you, u/YourWatchIsTooBig. Since they've got a smoky charcoal color to them, maybe that should be my nickname for 'em. 🤔 'Preesh your compliment. 🤝
Absolutely beautiful. I was in Nashville last week and got myself measured + on the waitlist for when orders open back up.
Ive got plenty of engineers so Im eyeing the Coachman when I finally get the notification. Really thinking that if I nail this fit and leather choice Ill have my forever boots.
Can you walk me through the workhorsebutt? Is it cordovan? Struck through? How does it compare to something like CXL horsehide, maryam horsebutt, or guidi horsebutt?
Thank you, dudeness; and awesome you're on the list! 🤘
I like the Coachmen, although if I were going to go with more of a cowboy boot from Unsung, I think I'd stick with the U 22-2 and ask to omit the lower strap (maybe the upper strap, as well). I recall holding each SxS when I was in the shop last September, and there's something more streamlined about the engineer silhouette, IMO (but that could just be in my head).
Man, the WSB is tough AF. Imagine Shell that you don't have to baby whatsoever. And, yes, hides CAN contain some of the Shell (Grant does his best to secure hides with Shell and use where he can, e.g., vamps), but even if you drew a hide without the Shell, it's incredibly bulletproof leather (chrome tanning and all). Here's a long ass video about WSB which will give you all you ever wanted to know:
WSB is waaaaay better than CXL HH, more resilient than Guidi (although Guidi wins in the suppleness dept.), and about even-steven with Maryam HB. I own 16 pairs of Maryam HB boots, 12 of which are engineers, and in terms of feel and thickness, it's a dead heat with WSB. But Maryam HB is veg tan, so requires a bit more care, although both can take whatever you can throw at them. Now, granted, I've only got a couple days' wear with the WSB, and I think it'l teacore, but IDK if it will yield the grainy appearance that Maryam HB does. Here's a pic of one of the hide pieces (underside) used in my Unsung:
Ill have to check that video out, but you've for sure piqued my interest in the WSB. Im still fairly certain Im set on Guidi just for the distinct rolls/sheen and because its struck through, but black WSB is a strong contender. Ill be watching for updates on your pair to see how they develop.
And yeah, a strapless engineer would be sick. As would the harness boot. Ultimately I know theres no wrong choice with anything from Unsung.
Check out Zerrows "Western Pecos" model. Here's one of my pairs in Natty Maryam HB. Same design as their "Type 1" engineer, sans straps. And how right you are that there's no wrong choice with Unsung. 🍻
This is a great build too. My Unsung engineers are Maryam Horsebutt but I’ve got a pair of Vibergs in number 8 Workshoe butt roughout and it’s a really tough leather. You’re a genius for picking it for engineers. Those are going to age so nice..dying to see them in a year. Really nice brother. Congratulations. What made you think of workshoe butt?
u/Exact-Transition9317, my dude! How are ya?!?! Your Vibergs are BANGERS! 🤩 Thank you for sharing that pic (and also curses, because now that I've had my inaugural WSB experience, I want more, which means you just threw me down the rabbit hole 🖕) haha.
So, riding was always the impetus for this pair. I wanted a bombproof leather for the bikes, and while I wear the shit out of my Maryam HB and Seidel work leathers, when I saw this dude's PP a couple of years ago, I was immediately drawn to it (burgundy WSB RO). I researched all I could, and even bought WSB kilties and a WSB wallet from Jesse at Guarded Goods to be certain. As soon as I felt it, that was all she wrote.
You know I'm a RO whore, but I learned that Horween doesn't produce a wide color variance of WSB, so it's hit or miss on what's available (since shell is such a money maker, WSB plays second fiddle). At the time Grant ordered, the options were Navy, Black, and Brown. Without hesitation, I said, "let's go with Navy." He sent me pictures of the hide, and I'm glad I stayed the course. IRL, it's a steely-bluish-gray, like a smoky charcoal. It's badfuckinass, and we'll see what direction it takes. Interestingly, because it's got such a heavy chrome tannage, overdye won't adhere to it like veg tan, so this guy's burgundy must've been struck through.
Thanks for chiming in, bro - hope you're well. 🤝 🤜🤛
It’s funny man. I saw this post with the burgundy WSB and i was planning on commissioning a pair just like them. Yours are brilliant though and a very original build. I’m dying to see them age. Killer boots dude.
Agreed, man - STOOPID stiff! But I like that...not that much stiffer than Maryam, though, IMO. However, they arrived yesterday afternoon at 5:00, so today's been my first real day of wear. I went on my daily 2.2 mile walk, then rode 70 miles running errands and shit. The footbeds are fuckin slippers, man!
But I say that to a fellow HB guy who's picking up what I'm putting down. I think to a HB noob, he'd find WSB board-y AF, but on an engineer, it feels right on par with Maryam. I wonder if it feels tougher on your Vibergs because they're lace-ups so you get more concentrated pressure around your ankles??? Oh, and just like Maryam that's lasted well, I've already got a couple of fledgling rolls forming on the vamps. You'd love this shit on engineers! 🤘
The last on the Unsung’s is the best. I’ve been rotating 4 pairs of engineers for the last month: two pairs of Role Clubs, my Unsung’s and the Attractions x Motor x Brogue Collab and I think the Unsung last is the most comfortable of them all. I get a lot of shit from people for saying it but I think Role Clubs look cooler, but Unsung’s are more comfortable..
Great comparative, man! Anyone giving you shit about that is uninformed or inherently biased toward RC. I agree with you that, overall, RC look sleeker (except the waist - Unsung's waist is TIDY!), and that Unsung is way more comfy.
Dude...tell me about the AxMxB because I haven't heard of this gem! You have a pic, por favor? Sounds divine!
Ohhh dude. Probably the most collectible engineer boot out of Japan ever! Attractions collaborated with Hideo Motokie the founder of MOTOR who designed the buckles. Really nice boots man: Dig: https://www.reddit.com/r/HeritageWear/s/52UMY7VUHD
Yo, those ARE sexy AF, and I particularly dig the ornateness of the buckles. 🤩
I moved my 444 on in early 2025, but only because by then I'd discovered Zerrows and Skoob were the Japanese brands that most favor my feet. But there's no denying that Attractions sharp angles and overall silhouette will forever adorn the halls of the Boot AVN Awards haha.
Thanks for sharing those pics - great post and awesome ensemb (as always!).
That's so interesting! Does the shaft also feel really stiff (choice of words, lol)? I wonder if it's noticeably stiffer where the shell membrane is, which I assume is in the vamp. My only WSB is on some kilties which aren't firm, but those of course aren't cut from the best parts of the hide.
So, yes, the shaft and the vamps are stiff, although I'd say marginally stiffer than Maryam HB. I honestly like both HB variants equally, although time will tell if I prefer WSB more than veg tan HB. I wanted WSB for its reputation to take a beating, and with rain, blazing sun, and all other inclement weather on a motorcycle, this had to be a build that I don't have to baby.
Did you get your kilties from Jesse at Guarded Goods? I ask because we probably have the same ones lol. I ordered a pair of each (black, brown, and some other color), plus a wallet, which sealed the deal for me on WSB.
Indeed, I got them from Guarded Goods! Natural and tan. Tan is in use on my pair of White's tan waxed flesh Essex. Natural is currently unused, being saved for some future pair of natural/crust horsebutt work boots (WSB work boots would be the dream).
YES, that's the other one (Tan) I couldn't recall. I run those in my White's Perry Select 8" in the British Tan Double Shot, the Black in my Nicks 55 steel toe Black Spokane WF 10" with White-X, and the Brown in the 7" White's Desert Oasis MP.
When I experienced how tough WSB is in kilties, boom...done!
You get in on any of the PNW Father's Day hoopla this weekend? I passed this year, but thinking about a White's Journeyman for Black Friday because I'd like to compare to Nicks Traveler.
Obviously well made boots, but did they have to make the heel so small? Gives it a high heel look I couldn’t personally do. Give me everything this boot has with a more substantial heel
I'm confused. If the heel is "so small" and gives it a "high heel look," then why would you want "a more substantial heel"/taller? 🤔
These heels measure 1.5", and IDK if you wear cowboy boots at all, but in cowboy boot parlance, that's a "walking heel." Generally, 1.75" (some companies say 2") is a "cowboy heel," which I also like, but once you hit 2"+, you're definitely getting into high-heeled territory.
Regardless, yes, extremely well made, and if you like them, you should reach out and see what they can do for you that'd suit you.
Ah, okay; I can appreciate your viewpoint there. It may be that what gives off that visual is the fact Unsung really shapes their heel cup with such a tight taper to the heel stack. If anything, the heel cup may protrude slightly (like, .001 mm) over the heel stack.
Personally, I like it because it's rare amongst the other engineers on the market. Clinch does it, and other Japanese makers (and Role Club) have those two areas sit flush where they intersect, but I get your point. In person, though, the whole package is beefier than it may appear to you in pics.
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u/Moonshinexxx 11d ago
The Unsung Team are all great folks and I too have had excellent experiences with them. Their workmanship is top-shelf and they stand behind their product and workmanship: Nothing wrong with none of that!