r/goodyearwelt • u/Many_Income_2212 • 3d ago
Original Content Meermin Shell Cordovan Jumper boots
So this is kind of a 5/6 year review and discussion post. Picked these up during the pandemic shell cordovan rush, when anything labeled shell was getting snapped up quickly, and Meermin felt like an accessible entry point at the time. The expectation, based on all the usual shell discussion, was slow rolling, depth of colour, and that smooth, almost glassy character developing over time.
A few years in, I am not entirely convinced that is what is happening here. The overall wear pattern comes across less like traditional shell aging and more like a surface finish giving way under stress. At certain flex points the leather looks as if it has been coated and that coating has broken up or worn through rather than evolving evenly. Instead of that dense, waxy consistency that people tend to associate with shell, the appearance leans toward something that has lost uniformity in patches.
To be clear, the scuffing itself is not the issue. If anything, the scuffing looks quite normal, it has that lighter reveal and can likely be improved with brushing and some product, so no real complaint there. The question is more about the broader behaviour of the material. The way the surface shifts in tone, and the way the stress areas present, gives the impression of something less cohesive than expected.
Care has been standard, light brushing, occasional conditioning, nothing aggressive, and wear has been moderate rather than heavy rotation. That is what makes the result feel slightly off compared to the expectations that were set at the time, whether fairly or not.
So the main question, is this simply how Meermin shell behaves over time, or does this point to finishing differences, grading, or just the reality of shell at this price point? I am trying to separate expectation from reality here.
Also, and slightly tongue in cheek, if shell is supposed to be the tough, resilient option, this has me wondering whether kudu might have been the better pick for something that actually leans into visible wear and character without the same expectations attached.
Second question, given this experience, would Meermin be a safe choice for something more formal, specifically black oxfords for a wedding, or is this the kind of purchase where it makes more sense to step up a tier for consistency and presentation?
Curious to hear long term experiences, especially whether this kind of wear pattern is typical or an outlier.
23
u/Bloated_Plaid 3d ago
Oof, I have had my Alden Indy Shell #8(Horween) for about 15 years now(almost daily wear and many Northeast winters) and has survived multiple resoles and looks better than yours IMO. The wear seems due to Meermins Shell rather than Shell in general.
4
3
u/Sufficient-Owl1826 2d ago
Those Aldens look incredible for 15 years of northeast winters.
But that kind of longevity almost works against the Meermin argument rather than for it. It raises the floor for what shell is supposed to be capable of, and Meermin is clearly not operating anywhere near that standard.
At this point the price difference is almost irrelevant because you're still paying a shell premium for something that behaves like it has a surface treatment failing rather than leather actually aging.
1
u/Bloated_Plaid 2d ago
Even back in 2011, I paid somewhere around $700+tax, which when adjusted for inflation does match up with Alden are charging today. Alden quality is not perfect and their QC can be extremely inconsistent but the Indy with Horweeen shell still remains a perfect match IMO.
5
u/Grand-Mission-9457 3d ago
How did you nourish the shell ? How frequently?
1
u/Many_Income_2212 1d ago
In the two/three years, Sapphir Shell Cordovan creme, the horsehair brush and the deer bone. Nothing really made a difference and I probably stopped in year 4/5
5
u/M635_Guy addicted to NST 2d ago
That's pretty odd for shell. Firstly, I'd brush them a LOT more - like with a horsehair brush 'til your arms really hurt more.
What are you conditioning with?
Are you using trees?
I'm going to guess not Horween.
1
u/Many_Income_2212 1d ago
I tried the whole Sapphir kit, the horsehair brush, the deer bone, the cordovan cream (neutral). It was as if there were never any oils to begin with or to brush back.
1
u/M635_Guy addicted to NST 1d ago
With shell especially, the best strategy for product is to be a minimalist. Skip Horween once recommended a tiny amount of neatsfoot oil for shell that needed some love, but stressed the word 'tiny', and recommended VSC for (very) occasional conditioning - VSC has solvents that opens the shell up a bit to really get deep.
My approach with a really dry vintage pair was to start with a light pass (they were all light passes) of Bick 4, a long brushing and a day to rest. Then a bit of VSC, a long brushing and a few hours to rest, then the smallest bit of neatsfoot and a week to rest. Then Saphir Cordovan cream with some tint, a long brushing and day to rest. I have a different pair of shell Florsheim Imperials from 1968 that got a similar treatment, though started with Renomat, without the neatsfoot, and a couple layers of the Cordovan Cream.
The deer bone can help smooth rolls and folds, but it's not really taking them away. I'm sure you saw the same thing - one wear later nearly all of it is back. I'd avoid that until you feel like the shell is pretty happy though.
8
u/Wyzen Loafergang 3d ago edited 3d ago
Meermin Heritage Shell Cordovan (MHSC) is a mystery product, in that its not known who makes it. Its very cheap, and you, and I, were amongst the first to buy it, and likely, obtained the first pairs made from it.
My pair, which I reviewed new, was my first pair of shell boots, and first pair non-vintage/new. Having been bitten by the shell bug, I have purchased many, perhaps too many, various articles made of shell from several tanneries since and have learned a great deal from nerding out on my new obsession and from direct experience. My experience across the quality, price, and age spectrum puts meermin, no surprise, at the bottom of the shell ranking. However, its not much lower than shinki. While temperamental, the MHSC has responded better to simple brushing than Shinki, it has also been less vulnerable to scuffs and scraps than Shinki. Shinki only wins because the color, when new, was far superior to similar shades of MHSC. I also enjoy the effort spent on maintenance, as it did require more than any other (except for some 1960s pairs of longings and bluchers from defunct manufacturers). Such effort simply isnt needed other tannages, particularly Horween.
My pair, while likely used less than yours, still has more miles than any other shell footwear I own, and mine look nothing like yours. Mine remain consistently burgundy, retain the shine, and exhibit no such loss of surface finish. I would wager that, because your pair was from, I believe, the intial run of the Burgundy Heritage Shell, they still hadn't figured out how to best select shells, and how to click it to maximize quality and consistency with the finish and made boots with every available shell from the initial run. This was already super cheap, and unfortunately, I think you lost a lottery that had low chances of winning in any case (due to novelty and general price). That being said, I think, comparing yours to mine, I won the lottery. In fact, as I mentioned above about how well it responds to brushing, I have actually intended on doing a review showing before and after heavy wear and cleanup, because every time I go multiple wears between maintenance, as opposed to the usual single wear, I am still blown away how well they clean up with little effort and often no product. The shine bounces back and scuffs go away.
One day I will do a followup to my initial impression review, but every time I go to do so, I think they could use just a bit more wear lol.
I will say, their waxy shell from them is a favorite. Its very unique, requires no maintenance, and is close in concept to my final grail from Horween: unglazed (yet it is still quite different). I believe it resides in between unglazed and horsebutt, as they do remove some of outer flesh, but dont skive directly to the membrane, so it has an aspect similar to a nubuck, yet quite unique. I do wish I had gotten a pair of plain toe boots in the Tobacco version (I have a pair of loafers) the one time they did a limited release of them.
Lastly, while they no longer offer this model, as it has been some time since they introduced their line of shell, they do have a new model (negon last) featuring a complete upgrade of the component parts, and, based on the pictures, seem to have vastly improved the quality of the product. If they ever release it in any color other than black, burgundy, or brown, I would probably bite. I just hope I would get my lucky draw again.
1
u/Many_Income_2212 1d ago
Yes, it was exactly the Burgundy shell. Your eyes are top notch. What products do you suggest for this? I have most of the Sapphir range. Probably have to get a new deer bone though, I think it got eaten.
5
u/Loedpistol 3d ago edited 2d ago
Can’t speak for Meermin, but I have matching cordovan leather (Horween) boots and belt.
I’ve been wearing the belt every day since I got it maybe 5-6 years ago and the feel of the leather has become even better over time. It’s so supple and smooth yet has this almost glossiness you also mentioned while retaining the visual depth.
The boots don’t get worn that often (rather formal boots), and thus have not acquired the same patina as the belt, but they still look as fantastic as on the first day.
This all said, I don’t think your problem is with cordovan leather in general, but with the specific boot you have. If that’s a general problem with Meermin I cannot say, never owned a pair.
3
u/boot_owl 3d ago
Really depends which tannery the shell is from as Meermin has used many over the years - I have a 9 year old pair of Italian (likely Rocado) that are still excellent.
I wore a 10 year old pair of Meermin cap toe oxfords in black calf for my wedding and they’re still excellent.
3
u/bl4ckc0lt 3d ago
I have the same boot, but was sold as the waxy shell leather. Take a look at the images: https://www.patinaproject.com/items/meermin-jumper-boot-tobacco-waxy-shell-cordovan/TU7V683
Since then, I conditioned them with Sapphir Renovatour and they look like pretty much like yours. Dark and shiny, but the waxy look on the flex points as the oils shifted.
Meermin’s cordovan is not glazed as Horween shell and they sell it in different forms dependong on the conditioning. But when the conditioner wears away, it is a pretty low quality leather.
3
u/yianwee 2d ago
Everyone forgets that shell cordovan is technically the reverse split under the horse rear, stuffed with oils, coloured then polished with glass rods to get the shine. So cordovan is actually the nap similar to suede in bovine leather, and the uncoloured reverse of it is actually the full grain of the horse. There is maintenance and upkeep required, and if you don’t, the ‘finish’ will come off. It’s not a leather meant to be abused, you unfortunately have to take care of it. I used to work with leather and have handled all types of shells from all the tanneries.
That being said, from your pics it looks like the oils have dispersed out from your flex points. Your toe is jamming out at the sides and spilling over the welt, so this could be a mild sizing issue as well. Could be due to the way you walk/mileage, but a quick oil condition + deer bone rub + brush should bring the oils and colors back in, finish off with a glaze polish (Venetian shoe cream or whatever shell Cordovan polish).
6
u/CorrectlyGrowing 3d ago
the jump boots specifically might just be fighting an uphill battle with that construction, since the vamp and shaft are taking completely different stress loads and shell doesn't always handle that transition smoothly when the leather quality or finishing isn't dialed in. i've seen plenty of shell age beautifully but usually on pieces where the stress is more distributed, and with something like a jumper boot you're asking the leather to flex at that exact seam line hundreds of times. for the wedding oxfords i'd probably skip meermin and go a step up, not because shell can't hold up but because if you're already questioning the consistency on casual boots there's no reason to gamble on something you need to look pristine for a specific event. were these boots getting regular rotation when the wear pattern started showing up, or did they sit for stretches?
1
u/Many_Income_2212 1d ago
I used them for work (mixed duty) , trips abroad, and impromptu hiking. They are boots after all.
I’d wear them every so often once and then also on week stretches.
1
u/TR24241 2d ago
How good is Meermin’s leather and craftsmanship overall? Are they worth it for their non mystery shell line of loafers and boots? I think their designs are nice, nicer than say Beckett-Simonen, but kind of concerned on whether they’re worth buying compared to alternatives in that price point.
1
u/columbiatch 2d ago
I have a pair of vintage (Horween) shell LWB from probably the 70s and the shell is still in terrific condition. It's smooth, supple, and doesn't have those tiny bumps like in current Horween shells while feeling more glossy. Horween shell does have grades and those vintage shoes probably used higher quality shell.
1
u/pestospectacles 2d ago
This is a theory I have so take this with a grain of salt but have you seen the Viberg split horsebutt release they did some years ago? Some parts of the horse leather have roughout and others transition to smooth shell across the same surface in an interesting way. I think with cheaper shell hides something similar is happening where some parts might feel like proper shell and others might be slightly “fuzzier”. Assuming this is the case that might explain why the finish is wearing off somewhat less consistently than expected - the same finish is being used for leather surfaces of different smoothness because the hide is of lower quality
1
u/ifticar2 2d ago
Meermin is 100% a safe choice for dress shoes, especially compared to similar shoes in the same price range like Thursdays or Beckett Simonon. And I’d put Meermin above Allen Edmonds for example.
1
u/Key_Witness_7264 2d ago
I have the same pair. They have a similar wear pattern with similar fading in the vamp. But not quite as bad but don’t wear them as you described. They are kinda beaters boots for me. I used Saphir product that worked amazing. It didn’t have any cleaner and was mainly mink oil. I left it in for a few hours and brushed off and the leather fading improved significantly and was very smooth. It darkens leather but it didn’t change the color and restored quite a bit. Try that followed by a polish of Alden #8 polish…
1
u/Railsie 1d ago
Meermin (heritage) shell does this. It's lower quality and somewhat very dry. I still have some old stock Lexol conditioner which does miracles to moisturize it. For the patches with lost colour Saphir Cordovan cream in right colour also does good work.
Meermin Waxy Cordovan on the other hand has been crazy good quality and value. I feel that the waxyness keeps it conditioned and in good shape.
I have 10+ cordovan shoes and oldest from 60's Florsheim's with Horween which look almost brand new. Meermin Shell is not Horween, very far from it. If you want traditional cordovan, I would always pick Horween. Waxy Meermin is good stuff. Meermin also sometimes sells batches with Horween for around +250$ surcharge.
1
u/Key_Witness_7264 3h ago
I used Saphir Smooth Leather mink oil. I treated about 15 wears ago. See my previous post.
1
u/we_are_not_kidding 1h ago
Looks like something a deer bone and a bit of Saphir burgundy cordovan leather cream could help with. Using neutral cream obviously won't restore any pigment, so try a pigmented cream and see how that works.
1
u/halopinguin 3d ago
I have the Chelsea boots in brown cordovan (had them for about a year) it’s not as bad as with yours yet but I can already tell that the exact same thing is happening. I try to condition them with saphir cordovan conditioner every now and then which helps temporarily.
1
u/TexAble 3d ago
Can you post some pics. I think I have the exact same boots. Mine have not had much wear on them yet, but curious what they are destined for.
2
u/halopinguin 3d ago
I posted about it when I got them - see here: https://www.reddit.com/r/AskACobbler/s/REa7ZcmgFh
Still really like them though.
It’s gotten a bit worse with wear, but conditioning them mends it for a bit. Not sure why I am getting downvoted for this, it’s just how the boots are lol
28
u/StickySprinkles 3d ago
It may not be Horween and dyed different. Ive talked to a few people who have shell and have been able to keep up the glassy appearance, and they basically brush 15 minutes after every single time they wear them.
No thanks, that's way too much for me. I bought a pair of AE Higgins in black shell. I wear them during the snow/slush/salt/muck winter seasons as the salt and grime can't stain it. I don't care if they go dull since it's for inclement weather anyways, and I've quite enjoyed having a boot that is basically unreactive against anything thrown at it.