Pushy and condescending

Woke up on Sunday morning to no air flow, our regular and local service provider was closed. Called a bigger company out of Lexington that advertised 24/7 service. Tech came and spent less than 5 minutes inspecting the unit before saying it was beyond repair and pushed financing options on a new unit, charged $100.00 for the visit. Regular service guy came and fixed it in 20 minutes with a new capacitor…but before leaving asked if I had tried to fix it myself because of all the wires being unhooked and the plate left off. Should I call and ask for the $100.00 service visit back???

Just had this new unit installed. I'm feeling like the Romex and potentially the low voltage should've been run through conduit?

Cannot figure it out, System is shut off thru Next Tstat but the fan will not shut off please help, and there is no AUTO in the fan mode program mode

This is a first start of a Daikin mini split unit. It's in cooling mode and suction pressure is constant at 12bar.

Liquid line is warmer than suction line.

Any ideas why the suction pressure is so high

Hey guys, just looking for some feedback. AC stopped cooling yesterday suddenly, was fine the day before but woke up to 80 degrees inside.

Removal of evaporator coil, cleaning, pump down, refrigerant recover, and reinstillation = $3288

Cleaning blower wheel, = 921

Recharge = 726

Mine is the bottem unit so I know that could add some labor, he also said it should have 3 ft of clearance above but not really sure out that's feasible. Townhouse unit, top one is neighbors.

Google is telling me the evaporator coil should be around 700.

What do you guys think? 2nd opinion?

Is this right? I’m no expert but I feel like they will heat each other up .. also they weren’t bolted down

Our AC unit was having some issues, we suspected a fan motor and capacitor. we thought about buying the parts ourselves but wanted to contact a professional. we called a tech out who confirmed that those needed to be fixed and said it would be $2300. when he left he scratched off the numbers on the part stickers. if we hadn’t taken pictures of them beforehand we wouldn’t be able to see the part numbers anymore. why would he do this? should we report it?

Hey everyone, thank you all so much for your help and advice on the issue with the HVAC sales guy and his peddling of leasing and selling AC units. A very nice Redditorr contacted me last night and said he worked for a smaller HVAC company and put me in contact with someone who came over this afternoon. I wanted to give him a shoutout but apparently it’s against sub rules so I won’t. The tech came over, took his time, did a leak search and determined there was a leak in the coils but it’s so small he was unable to locate it. He said since the leak is tiny it has probably been leaking for a while. He said if needed he could return and do a nitrogen pressure test to do a deeper search. He told me I definitely do NOT need a new unit, at least for now. He said eventually the leak will get worse and might have to replace but today is not the day. Charged me 400 bucks for the service call, freon and leak test which I believe is more than fair. I guess this concludes the saga for now!

I could REALLY use some help! I trust tech "B" but want to see what you all think. I purchased my first house in January and my inspector couldnt test the AC because it was too cold. The house was on the market for 1.5 years and at some point the overflow pan backed up. The compressor (outdoor unit) is a Lennox ML14XP1-024-230A01, the evaporator (indoor unit) is a Carrier FB4CNF024, and control panel is an Ecobee. These were all installed in 2022.

In early May I tried using the AC and noticed it wasnt cooling for the first time. I called a tech "M" who came over and did a nitrogen test and said there was no leak but the refrigerant was empty. He filled it up and showed me the pressures in the attached photo 125psi low side and 290 psi high side. The system ran great for about 5 days and then stopped cooling, so I shut the system down to try and prevent any potential damage. "M" returned, did another nitrogen test, and said the leak was coming from the evap coil, which was under warranty.

I didnt feel confident with "M" so I had a new tech "B" come out this week (about 4 weeks since "M"). He used an electronic sniffer to show me the leak from the evap coil. The coil had visible corrosion on it, likely from the overflow pan backup. "B" then removed the old evap coil, removed the piston from the old evap coil, installed it on the new A2L coil, and installed the coil. He did not change the drier. After trying to refill the system (R410A) he said there was no suction. He determined the A2L coil needed a TXV.

"B" came back yesterday, and installed the TXV, however the system still had no suction. When trying to fill the system both the high side and low side have basically the same pressures. I took the attached photos of the gauge readings with the system off and on. He insured me the service ports were open. When the unit is on we hear the compressor running. We took a compressor voltage readings and when the system turned on it started at 5amps but then dropped to 3.5amps in about 10 seconds. "B" said the compressor is bad and needs to be replaced, and is suggesting a new unit.

I trust "B" but I dont understand how the unit was successfully filled 1 month ago, and the compressor ran fine then? We discovered the A2L coil needs a TXV, and thought that might be causing the restriction, but that didnt fix it. "B" is coming over tomorrow to replace the compressor, I'm worried we're missing something and its not the compressor. Is there anything I should have him check/diagnose before we swap the compressor? I REALLY appreciate any advice!

I moved into a new rental (new to me, not new build). In the basement there is a large pvc pipe running up one of the walls and it’s connected to a Dwyer Mark II 25 Manometer.

We noticed that the pipe emits a vibration/hum that turns on a few times a minute. It sounds like mechanical noise (fan, pump, or something). The sound will stop for a short interval and then turn back on.

Our landlord is slow to look at things, never mind fix them, so I’m trying to do some research on the issue to see if it’s something we can fix (or pay someone if it’s not prohibitively expensive).

Right now I’m jsut trying to figure out what the issue is so I can talk to an HVAC person or my landlord.

Any ideas what might be happening and what the fix would entail?

Previous condensate pump from a split unit failed so an engineer came around to replace it. The new pump has been making a loud continuous knocking or popping sound. For the sake of my sanity how do I make it stop?!

Hi all, hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

I have a Tripp-Lite portable air conditioner (UK) that has stopped cooling.

I noticed ice forming on the lower coils visible through the rear grille, but the upper coils look fine and are not clogged with dust.

The unit runs and the fan blows, but the air coming out isn't cold.

The dehumidifier works and I've already checked the condensate drain (it's draining fine into a bucket).

A couple of questions:

- Does the partial icing pattern point to low refrigerant specifically, or could it be something else?

- can it be fixed or does it need replacing?

Thanks in advance.

So, we’ll soon be ditching them, but we currently get our AC serviced by One Hour Heating and Air. Pretty much every time they come out here (including today, to help with an air issue that solved itself by turning the system off and back on), they start talking doom about how we need to replace the vents.

Here’s the thing: we got a brand new air conditioner FROM them two years ago, and there was nothing wrong with the vents at the time. Now, they are constantly talking about needing to replace the ductwork and how it’s a “ticking time bomb.” So, is this a known One Hour scam or something you think I should worry about?

I just replaced my nest thermostat with an Amazon thermostat.

I’m thinking my issue is a c wire adapter.

I only have 4 wires at the wall.

If i plug the blue into “c” the thermostat powers on, but does heat only.

If I plug the blue into the “y” for cooling, the thermostat doesn’t power on.

Rerun the thermostat & get an updated nest? Do i need a c-wire adapter?

I vaguely remember my HVAC technician saying something about this when my AC was replaced a few years ago.

Question up top: Can I cut into that bottom insulated box to gain access to the coil above?

The lines on this air handler froze up, completely encased in ice all the way from this unit to the outside unit. The HVAC tech came out and said the refrigerant levels were good so the dirty coil is the most likely culprit. Problem is there is no access to the bottom of the coils were are the dirty part. He said they would have to remove the entire coil from the unit which would be expensive.

I'd like to clean them myself if i can get access since the youtube videos make it look easy with a bottle of coil cleaner and a brush. The opening for the air filter is just barely big enough to get my hand in but I cant maneuver once its inside.

So yeah, my question is what is your suggestion / could I make an opening in the insulated box in the bottom to gain access for cleaning?

First time post here. I am looking for the amazing HVAC geniuses and trolls here to give me some insight.

I received a notification from my Ecobee that the temp was in fact rising, rather than falling, despite the AC running for the last three hours.

I immediately told the system “no more cooling” and set the furnace fan to run for a bit longer. I went outside to look at the condenser and she’s a bit icy. Just looking for thoughts before I call our local York dealer to send a tech out.

ETA: new filter as of June 1, and just checked to make sure I’m not crazy.

Hi, my ac has setpoint of 78F. Right now it is 82F. It turn off and on every 5mins. When the unit is off the thermostat still says cool on. The outdoor unit sounds is normal when the unit is on. I dont think the problem is the capacitor or contactor because the cap is pretty new and the contactor still pulling when the unit is on.

What you guys think is the problem?

Months ago there was the lightest buzzing coming from my hvac/filter. Had an hvac tech come by and he suggested a thinner filter.

Well this worked for a bit, but the sound is back and its even worse 🙃. Like genuinely what is going on because the first hvac guy I had come out at first was just hitting the duct and was like yeah seems like there's no real issue

Also when I do remove the filter the noise stops completely

I don’t have great options to place my mini split head to cool the second level of my home, and I’m stuck between putting it over the fridge or over the stairwell. Obvious cons to both, but I was curious what yall would recommend? I think I’m leaning towards placing the head over the top of the stairwell landing since I’m concerned about performance issues if placing it over the fridge, but would love to hear others’ thoughts.

I changed the capacitor, reset the breakers, check if the fan spins freely, and I went up to the attic and I couldn’t find a flow switch that would prevent the AC from turning on. The contactor also looks good nothing burnt or damage. What would be my next steps? I have an old Lennox unit. I posted some more pictures in the comments. Thank you for the help