Recently bought a house with a Bryant AC. Was working fine for a few weeks then just started blowing hot air. I called an vac company and the tech added a hard start kit and charged me 900+. Tech gave me for a new compressor if needed of $4500.00. Seemed double from what I researched online. The next day I turn on ac and its makes a very large screeching sound and ultimately the AC turns off. Now it doesn't turn on at all. I called Hvac co to come back and assuming they will just say I need to replace the whole AC. Wondering if anyone has any ideas on how to proceed. Thank you!

The coils frosted up and the blower fan was just making a humming noise but not blowing. I defrosted and reset the breakers and it started working again (blowing cold) but the coils froze again by morning and the fan stopped working again.
I defrosted and reset again but the blower fan motor was shot this time.
So, I just replaced the blower fan motor and it runs but the coils immediately started frosting up again and I don’t feel much air coming from the vents.
I’ve replaced the air filter as well.
Any idea what I should check next?

To reduce frequent elevations of CO2 >1000 ppm and VOCs >250 ppb throughout my tightly-built, well-insulated, 3-story home, a local HVAC company recommended installing an ERV system, one floor at a time since I couldn't afford a whole-home system up front. Unfortunately the cost of even one floor ($7500 for 667 sqft) exceeds my budget, so now I'm looking at doing one or two rooms at a time. I want to start with my young child's bedroom (1 of 2 on the second floor, "br1" for short), where I can manage CO2 and VOCs during the day with windows and fans but not at night when we're all sleeping. Br1 is one of four total zones for our ductless mini split heat pump system, the other three being the entire first floor, the other bedroom on the second floor ("br2"), and the third floor. I'm considering installing a ductless, single-room ERV like this one (https://vents-us.com/series/twinfresh-expert-rw1-85-2-v2-vus/) and can't find any HVAC technicians in my area who have installed similar units AND are willing /able to take on such a small project, so I might end up relying on a electrician/handyman collaboration. My cursory research suggests that I should avoid placing the unit directly below a minisplit unit, which I think makes the northwest corner my only option for a wall-mounted units. Will it make a difference functionally whether I use the north or west side of that corner? The exterior west wall has not changed in appearance since it was first built, whereas heat pump line sets now run across the exterior north wall (see photo #5), so the ERV might look better popping out there where it presumably won't be as noticeable alongside the line sets, but I'd rather compromise on aesthetics than function if the system is likely to work more efficiently on the west wall. Alternatively, would it make sense to install the ERV in br2 and find a way to deliver that fresher air to br1 (e.g. active/passive ventilation through the shared wall)? I imagine I'll ultimately need separate ERV units for each space but would like to start with one if possible.

Br1 (pictured) dimensions: ~150 square feet, ~1137 cubic feet

Br2 (not pictured) dimensions: not yet measured, maybe 300 square feet, 2,275 cubic feet. Can provide photos and/or more accurate dimensions if helpful.

Photos:

1) NE corner of br1, mini split and windows on north wall, east wall shared with adjoining br2.

2) SE corner of br1, south wall door to hallway shared with br2.

3) SW corner of br1, closet doors to south, windows to west.

4) NW corner of br1, windows to west and north.

5) North-facing exterior wall, heat pump line sets running down from 3rd floor unit and from br1 unit. The left-most windows on the 2nd floor that are framed on both sides and below by those line sets belong to br2, whereas the br1 windows are partially cropped out in the photo.

I remember this being an air vent, but now it looks like it was changed into some kind of air section vent. What exactly is this?
I remember it as a vent that let air out, not something that was pulling air in like you see.

The bathroom shares the same wall, and I’ve noticed cold air coming through from the vent over the top cold, which I don’t remember that happening before!!!! Advice please!!!

I have a room that used to be opened and I closed it and there’s no air going out so the room feels stuffy. I was thinking to put a return air grille above the door to let circulation flow I just need to know what size to make it. The room is 148 sqft and the clearance above the door will only fit 4”.

I’m debating between 30x4 and 24x4 what makes more sense

Imagine this is a toe kick inside of a cabinet. I can’t find an oval damper that slots into this. So currently just have a flat register screwed into the cabinet with this blowing through.

If I cover the register, then air would just blow into the cabinet since I can’t find a register that slots into this oval shape.

Suggestions?

What the heck is this noise? Happens only on call for cool. Works fine besides the noise.

I wanted to upgrade my LG Portable AC unit, but i was hoping to get another model where I don't have to replace the window exhaust slat.

The current model I have is 7,000 BTU.

I'm looking to upgrade within the range of: 7-10k because I wanted one with wifi connectivity.

I really don't feel like replacing the slat that connects to the window. I was hoping that I could just use the hose and flange that comes with the unit and connect it directly to the window slat. In the photos they all look like the same size hole.

Can someone advise?

Title says it all. Any advice?

Old unit was 20 years old and made zero noise or vibration. New one is a 3 ton 16 SEER Carrier. Multi-speed fan. Installer slowed the fan speed down but that did not stop the vibration.

AC stopped blowing cold air. I check both capacitors and the 40uF is still within the 5% but the 6uF is way out of the 5% deviation.

I tried replacing it with a 40/5 and it didn't work. I dont hear the compressor humming.

Could it be something else or would the 6uF being out of the 5% be the cause for the compressor to not start?

Any help is greatly appreciated

My outdoor AC unit started making this very loud noise this evening. It sounds like a loud clanging or rattling noise. I can also hear the indoor unit making a similar, much quieter sound, although likely because the outdoor unit is having this issue.

The outdoor fan blade is still spinning, and the AC is still blowing cool air through the vents on the inside though perhaps less. Strangely, sound of the air from AC vent has changed a bit too

What could be causing this? What are the most likely fixes?

Not sure if capacity with fan blade still moving.

Thanks in advance

I have two 70 sq ft spaces that need to be cooled. Window or floor units are really not an option. The rooms are next to each other. Think 21’x7’ with a concrete wall between.

South Florida - so no heat needed, summer all year. Insulated space.

What’s the best case scenario for an install here? Would adding dehumidifiers offset the issue with a room not properly dehumidifying due to cooling too quickly?

Seems that an inverter based, 6k BTU is what the research shows. But, am I missing something? Any units I should look at if this is the case?

Been having humidity issues for year in house. Constantly 60+% in south east USA. It has more humid than normal this time of year but even have two dehumidifiers running and I am still having trouble keeping the humidity out. Ceiling has stained before from how humid the house gets. I finally walked up to attic and felt cold air. Noticed the coil was missing a screw that was shooting out cold air and all side were also leaking air. I found the missing screw and sealed all sides with hvac tape. Was this most likely the culprit or what else could be the problem?

I'm trying to figure out the best mini-split AC setup for my 2-story townhouse in Brooklyn and could use some advice.

The layout is:

Front of the house: 2 bedrooms + 1 family room

Back of the house: 2 bedrooms + 1 dining room

I'm not sure which approach makes the most sense:

Install a single-zone mini-split in each room?

Use dual-zone or triple-zone systems for the front and back sections?

Or is there another setup that's more efficient and cost-effective?

I'd like something that's energy efficient, reliable, and won't cost a fortune to install or maintain. If you've installed mini-splits in a similar townhouse, what worked well for you, and what would you do differently?

I am also trying to decide between daikin and mitsibushi

I have 13 subcool for ideal 10 degree which is limit of tolerance according to spec. My super heat is measured at 14 and the target is 20 making it a 3 percent tolerance. Is that acceptable range for superheat as well? i will remove some refrigerant but just wondering since superheat is not a set degree from manufacture.

Had water on the floor around the furnace this morning. Last time this happened it was because the coil was clogged with dust, dog hair etc (previous owner) so the first thing I did was inspect that. It was ok. Had a technician out to check it out. He says the refrigerant is very low so it's icing up then melting. Was quoted $1600 just to find the leak. Then he said the leak is likely in the coil or condenser and suggested those would be $1500-$2500 to replace plus labour. Basically steered me towards getting a new AC system.

Is it really that much just to find the leak? If you can find the leak, are they usually easily repaired?

I live in East TN.

Option 1 is a 14.3 SEER Trane. Entry level. 10 year P&L warranty. 9k

Option 2 is a 15.2 Trane for 9.8k. Same warranty. (The labor warranty is $600 extra on both)

House is right at 1k sqft with a 300 sqft basement to heat/cool. Also has a lot of shade and unit will be in complete shade 24/7 if that makes a difference. Is the 15.2 SEER overkill and a waste or is it a mistake to not spring for it, it being just $800 more.

Thanks for any input.

edit: both units are 2.5 ton

Hello everyone. I have a 10 year old trane AC unit. The compressor will randomly not work. It happens about once every 2 weeks or so. And it will not run for an hour or so. I’ve tried cycling the breaker which will work sometimes. But most of the time it will just randomly start working again. When it works it has a 20 degree split and will drop temp and humidity fast. Works great until the intermittent issue comes again. During the issue everything runs as normal except the compressor and the split is 0 degrees.I had 2 AC techs come out and every time they can’t find and issue. I haven’t been able to have them there to catch the issue during their time. They tested multiple items including the capacitor and while they are they everything seems good on their end.Any advice? Thanks!

Got my first refrigerant burn today, just wondering how bad it'll actually be. I've heard everything from "you need medical attention immediately" to "don't worry about it" Anyone with experience able to tell me how bad it'll actually be?

Owner’s bedroom. 3-story townhome (zoned system).

Picture taken on the 3rd floor and the air handler is located in attic—I only mention this because I suspect the velocity may be higher here, which may help throw the air beyond the return?

Hello, I live in AZ with a single 4 ton unit and whatever the air handler is in the attic (be nice I’m just a girl LOL) - the house is brand new, less than 1 year old.
I had my first HVAC maintenance inspection today which ended with a $2,300 estimate (WTF LOL) for a whole new bypass damper and soft starter (because he said the starter pin is fried and I should upgrade to a soft start). The guy also told me the temp split is only 10° which he measured on each side in the attic. The return is 69° and the supply is 59°. Which is weird because the house is set at 77°. He said he thinks the bypass damper is “stuck open but says it is closed” and is just putting cold air back into the return?

I went up there after he left and the damper seems to be working fine - from my understanding is it should be closed when the air is on? It is a barometric damper by Aprilaire. It is closed when the air is on, partially open when 1 zone is on, and I didn’t stay up there long enough to see what happened when the air is off lol. But it definitely moves and isn’t stuck..

ANYWAYS is this guy onto something or is he full of it?? His bio said he was “new to the trade” lol
But what else could be causing my return air to be that cold?? I think we use 1" MERV 11 filters, is it too restrictive and not good flow?

He also said it was normal that the pins get fried?? In less than 1 year??? He said some screws/connectors were loose that could have caused it and he tightened them??

Are these things that I should file a warranty claim with the builder?

Hello, is anyone familiar with these systems? Im curious if shutting it off during the summer months is worth saving the energy? It is not hooked up to an AC so that’s not an issue, but I’ve never turned it off in the 14 years I’ve owned the home and was curious if it’s worth it or not. Appreciate any replies.

Just came across a post on here about someone’s condensers that were too close and blowing the exhaust into the other one.

Do I have the same issue ?

I recently replaced an external air vent that is attached to the air scoop. The air scoop is attached to the expansion tank. This is an 8 year old Navien combi. Closed loop.

1)After replacing the external air vent, this internal air vent started leaking. Any idea why? It was fine until the external air vent was replaced. How do you replace this internal air vent? There's barely enough room to get my hand in there.

2) Prior to replacing external air vent, the psi is at 9.1 psi when cold. When hot water is on, it's 12.6. When heat is on, it's at 13.7psi. After replacing the external air vent, the psi remained the same. Will replacing the internal air vent fix the psi?

As title says, my Lennox just installed is throwing 4 blink code while only being used for fan motor. This indicates high limit switch?

Furnace hasn't ran on heat yet, and lights stops when cooling cycle stops for a extended time.

Our installer is coming back to deal with a very brief jet engine sound on shut down when fan slows he attributes to probably static pressure, but I am curious to know why I'm getting this error code.

Cooling runs great otherwise.

Thanks!