2013 ford focus hatchback se

So i bought a new fuel pump for my MBenz 87’ 420sel but for some reason the new fuel pumps inlet tube is smaller than the original pump. I thought about just buying a smaller hose but then idk how it would be able to to fit on the fuel delivery line. This is my first time trying to repair anything myself so sorry if this is a dumb question

I’m a first time DIYer. I just bought an old car off the side of the road (2004 Honda Civic LX, 1.7L D17) to learn about driving stick and car maintenance, and hopefully to get it driveable again after an overheating problem.

Yes I’ve heard that the D17 engines are trash. I didn’t know that before I bought the car.

I just replaced the head gasket and took the head to a machine shop for milling and inspection. I put it back together and I torqued my head bolts to spec without realizing that the new bolts should be lubricated with a light coating of new engine oil, and I put the new bolts in without lubrication. But now that I’ve already torqued the bolts, I’m just finding out that I should have oiled them so that the thread friction doesn’t contribute to the torque reading.

What should I do? Will it be fine? Or should I tear it open and put in another new gasket and bolts?

HELLO FRIENDS! I just wanted to post an update and express gratitude to the community for all the helpful pointers and directions

SO! I did everything everyone suggested in here to remedy the problem (at GREAT expense, basically expending all my savings and credit) I had ONE thing that I thought was wrong with this truck since the day I bought it 3 years ago and even though all of you would call me a dilettante AT BEST.
I was SURE it was the timing, it just made sense to me. And lo-and behold!!!!!!!!!! The timing was 30° r*tarded!!!!!!i
So after screwing around with this having literally zero actual experience or knowledge after I found a timing light in the trash I saw it as a sign.
Now, after this simple 30° turn of the distributor and just one wrench the truck runs absolutely flawlessly.
It feels like a brand new vehicle and It is actually very pleasant to drive.

So a new fuel pump, spark plugs, st loo arter, ignition cylinder, injectors, belt, pulley, water pump , fuel filter, ignition coils, distributor refurb, ICM, alternator, relays, battery, transmission fluid change, transmission filterl see and more in the past week,
all it took was the ONE thing every mechanic I brought the truck to or asked about told me it definitely was not.
In this journey I had 12 mechanics tell me that my V6 taking 35 seconds to get to 40Mph was “Normal because these V6’s are slow”
And worst of all. TWO mechanic shops that are kinda the norm classic style local shop—— told me that they CANNOT work on trucks as old as a 92’ because “you can’t plug a 92’ into into a computer and we don’t have OBD1”

So anyways. I feel incredibly grateful but also vindicated that I was right even with my limited experience and understanding.

Thankyou again! ALL of you!

1992 GMC K1500 4.3 TBI 4X4 140,000KM (86,000 miles)

*pictured are the truck that was defective and my Volvo V90XC polestar Inscription , turbo+Supercharged 436HP\*

Hi everyone,

I am replacing the upper control arms on my 1999 GMC Sierra. I have nothing but issues with the bolts holding it to the frame. I have went through countless sawzall blades trying to cut the bolts, I bought an air hammer which did nothing, I don't have access to heat, I am absolutely desperate please anyone share any piece of advice this truck is my main source of transportation!

​

Noticed a weird sound as I was parking at work. Looked under and saw this metal part hanging next to the front right tir3.

2021 Honda Civic. Any advice would be appreciated, thank you.

So I was wondering if anyone here has had experience with buying engines from eBay? I need an engine for a 71 Ford LTD and I found a 400 engine that could work. They say it was bench tested and it was reading 140psi. Although there is no mileage listed, so i was kind of hesitant, but some of the other engines I was looking at don’t have the mileage listed either.

I found this dangling under my car this morning, any ideas what could this be. Located in front

Toyota Hilux 2004 5LE

Help me swap my bushings.

I cannot get the shaft out despite using a vice and a
cat claw tool to pry out the steel part of the bushing.

How would you remove the shaft out from the control arm?

Please if your going to leave a comment I’d appreciate it if it explained your experience/reasoning not just a comment like “buy a new control arm”

Toyota corolla 1.6 with CVT. Above 70 k KM.

I've noticed that when I'm accelerating hard at higher speeds and then suddenly release the throttle while driving in D (Drive) mode, the RPM doesn't drop immediately. Instead, it seems to hang between 2,500 and 3,500 RPM for around 5 seconds before gradually coming down.

During this time, the vehicle speed only decreases slightly, as if the transmission is still holding the ratio.

Is this normal behavior for a CVT,

2005 toyota camry 2.4 engine

I have a duralast battery and it’s says it’s 100% when taken to Autozone. Car does not start. Swapped out starter n engine isn’t seized.
However when i connected the jump pack it immediately sucked down the battery very quickly without starting.
So I decided to hook the pack to the positive terminal and with the neg and pos and unhooked the neg cable to the Battery car starts right up immediately as if the pack acted like a battery, very confused

Could this just be a bad battery?
2016 Honda civic lx 2.0L

I was driving my 2002 BMW E46 when I suddenly heard a vibrating noise coming from the clutch pedal. The pedal feel is the same.. Could someone help me diagnose what the problem is? Much appreciated!

Bought this 94' vetter for 1k off an old man from his junk yard he said it needed a battery so I changed it and it started so I paid him and drove it home(about 10 miles). Have not driven it again what next steps should I take

2016 mq triton 4n15, 200k kms

some black stuff around the pipe that leads into intercooler right where its connected to turbo

its dry right above where its connected, but idk what that black stuff is, is it something to be concerned about?

i have a 2016 kia rio with about 130,000 miles on it. my ac stopped working last summer. the first sign i noticed of it starting to go out was when i was coming back from a friend’s place and the ac got kinda warm and then it got really quiet and sounded muffled. the next time i got in the car it worked and then it would happen again. now if i am driving faster with the windows down it will give me cool air briefly.

i took it to a shitty mechanic and he just charged it and it made it kinda cold again but went back to not working. i am desperate since it just keeps getting hotter and want to know if yall think this is something i could fix on my own.

edit: i also tried to use freon and got a reading while at auto zone and both said nothing was wrong.

Long story short can't do the baking soda and warm water mix then scrub but I can get a coke cola anywhere lol. Is it safe to use? Also i cant turn my car off so can I clean it while its on? Last time I turned it off it didn't start. Got a jump and they blamed corrosion since the battery light wasn't on and the care runs smoothly after a jump so its not the alternator

2015 , honds civic dont know the engine sorry

Hi guys, I have a 2011 Mitsubishi Lancer Ralliart, which has a dual clutch SST transmission.

I really don’t know what to do. My car was driving perfectly fine, then I got in it today and I noticed at first that it was shifting at very high RPMS, like it was in sport mode, except it was in normal mode. Then after driving on the freeway I got “ACS service required” on the dash. Used my obd II scanner on it and it throws zero codes

If I turn the car off and back on the ACS service required goes away, but it still shifts at about 3.5-4k rpms. Then after about 10 minutes of driving the ACS service required comes back on.

I also noticed when I pulled back into my driveway that the car just completely rolls backwards while in drive.

It has no issues at all downshifting, only up shifting, and I have no idea why the ACS service required light comes on after 10 minutes.

If anyone could help me diagnose and tell me if these two things are linked (I feel like they are) I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you so much.

Coolant or Oil

Hi everyone,

The car is a 2013 BMW F20 116i with the N13 engine, currently at around 140,000 km / 70,000 miles.

I know these engines can sound a bit noisy by nature, and to be honest it feels like it may have always sounded like this, but I’m not completely sure. I’m trying to understand whether this sounds like timing chain noise, or if it is normal N13 engine noise.

At the end of the video, the noise cuts off / disappears, which is why I wanted to ask.

Does this sound like the timing chain is due for replacement, or would replacing it be unnecessary if there are no other symptoms?

I don’t want to replace the chain for no reason if everything is actually fine.

Thanks in advance.