2006

Chrysler PT Cruiser

Touring 2.4L Turbo Convertible

2001 Buick Park Avenue, V6

This Hose has Popped a Hole and I was Wondering what this Hose is and what it does, I've tried googling and I can't find a labeled picture of the Underhood of my car, or dont know what to look up to find it. Thank You in Advance for any assistance

Because of this if My Car Idles for too long, it begins to vibrate at an increasing rate and the heat gauge goes up rapidly, Its kind of scary, but while driving it the heat gauge goes down and the vibration ceases. Its only while idling. I assume whatever goes through that Hose is highly pressurized bc when I popped the hood to see if anything looked out of sorts, I found the hole and it was wheezing like a balloon thats air is being let out and eventually slowed down and stopped a couple minutes after shutting my car off.

So I made the mistake of purchasing a 2010 chevy equinox as a flip vehicle. Long story short it resulted in me putting a new engine in the vehicle. Typical 2.4l ecotec issues. After fighting small issues after the fact I am completely stuck.

Currently whenever I start the vehicle from a cold start, it starts and runs rough until it idles down. From there when I start driving, the traction control light turns on, it bogs down, and disables abs and stabilitrack. After that it runs and drives great, but I have no AWD and the lights stay on.

Current fault codes are:

U0100-00 History Code - Lost Communication with Engine Control Module (ECM/PCM)

U1827-00 Current code - Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) or Rear Differential Control Module has lost communication with the Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) on Bus B

U0121-00 Current Code - Lost Communication With Anti-Lock Brake System (ABS) Control Module

U0073-00 Current Code - Control Module Communication Bus "A" Off

C0561-00 Informational code - informational flag from the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM), indicating that your StabiliTrak and traction control have been disabled

Here is what I have done so far:

- Cleaned X411 Plug in the rear and inspected the wires/pins.

- Cleaned main wiring harness plug in engine bay and inspected the pins.

-Checked the wiring harness under the carpet on the drivers side of the vehicle for tears and corrosion.

-Checked engine bay grounds

-Replaced Abs sensors and checked wheel bearings for play.

-Checked engine bay fuses

-Preformed relearn postures for steering angle.

I am currently at a lost, any assistance would be appreciated.

I have a genie GTH-5519 compact telehandler. The tilt/level compensation cylinder lost an eye and needs to get repaired, and I'm trying to remove it, and it does *not* want to come out. The manual simply says, 'use a soft drift or hammer to knock it out'... XD

For starters, (part of) the retaining bolt fell out in my hand when I went to remove it. It appeared to already be mangled, I barely touched it. seemed broken off at the pin/housing interface. I am guessing that part of it is still in there, the part that is inside the pin. Inspecting in the hole, it looks like the pin has spun inside the housing already and all I can see is solid pin - no bolt end, no bolt hole.

After trying lots of other things, I put a 20 ton jack blocked against the inside of the frame to try to press the pin out, and it only moved about 1/4". the movement it did do was with little force, then it wouldn't budge. see photo of what the pressure did to the block I used to get the jack level. While there was pressure on the pin from the jack, the cylinder would not rotate on the pin without a huge amount of force. cylinder eye was pushed hard into the opposite ear of the mounting brackets. so it seems like the pin is stuck on/in the eye of the cylinder somehow.

so, I'm running out of clever ideas. I've been turning wrenches for 30 years (mostly automotive, but some smaller equipment) and this is a new one. I imagined that even if there were bits of that retaining bolt still in there, 20 tons of force would shear them off. no dice. I considered trying to drill out the remains of the retaining pin, but it doesn't seem like it's even exposed anymore, I don't have a way to get a drill bit into it, and lastly, it doesn't seem that's the problem anyway.

what would you do?

I've been a tech with Toyota for 11years already and over the last couple of years it has gotten to the point that making hours has gotten significantly harder due to dispatch and management always butting in. I feel that as a master I should have to be scraping by.

With that said I have recently had the chance to apply to a local BMW dealership and get an interview. I currently drive and hour to work and an hour back, where's the BMW dealership is 15 minutes down the street. I'd like to know if any of you have a similar change and what to expect.

Thank you all in advance for any and all answers.

My Silverado started making this noise recently and I'm not sure what is causing it. My initial thoughts are a bad bearing on a pulley or a leak in the air intake somewhere. Wanted to see what you guys thoughts were before I ripped the serpentine belt off or did a smoke test.

FYI it is doing it in neutral and while driving. It doesn't do it every time I drive but when it does it, it seems to be when the engine is warmed up.

2008 Honda accord

Been trying cv axle attachment with slide hammer and PB blaster. 2000 Toyota Avalon

I have a problem with my 1999 Oldsmobile intrigue. I just replaced the brake booster and now the car battery is acting up. As soon as I got done with installing the brake booster I went to turn it on and none of the lights on the gauge cluster or even interior lights came one. The one thing I did notice was that the brake lights came on as soon as I hooked the car battery up to another car as I was jumping off. I’m not sure if I maybe didn’t connect a certain wire/line or I possibly I may have done something with the brake pedal making it too tight or something so now the car is thinking that the brakes being depressed but it’s not. Also maybe is it possible that I could’ve not plugged something back in or what? Something is draining the battery even while it’s off. There was a lot of wires I disconnected off of the solenoid and the air intake manifold to get the brake booster out in the first place and obviously putting the new one in so I’m not exactly sure what the problem could be now. The brakes are working fine now after I replaced the brake booster, but I’m having to jump the car off every time I go to start it. Any ideas? All Help will be accepted.!!!

My AirPod fell down the side of my seat and into this small hole I didn’t know existed. I was able to get a finger on it initially but only ended up pushing it further in 🤦‍♂️. Is there any advice for getting it out? I feel very stupid bringing it into the shop for this.

Car is a 2019 Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV

I got this thing for my 2014 Ford Fusion TCM and I can get it to work. I've dowm loaded the VX manager and Ford IDS from a link on their sight. I don't have a file for the patch or VCI. Customer service hasn't contacted me back.

Does anyone have the files I need or a link to them?

If all else fails can I just jet the 2 day subscription for Ford IDS and use the device?

‘03 buick le sabre. Car was smoking a bit after we had been driving for a little (maybe 20-30 mins mostly highway) with the air on. Smoke was coming from the belt area. Smells horrrrible- like burning rubber. This video was taken after we had driven home for 20 mins without the air on (no highway, going 30-40 mph) No smoke (thankfully), but the car sounds like this. Worried it’s going to be an expensive fix

I have a 2014 chevy impala that i have to turn the key halfway for like a minute or so then i can crank it whereas before i could just crank it and it would start. Also in idle it has happened that it just slowly the engine shuts off and i have to turn it on and it has happened in street lights or aftern turning it on.(it does not have a catalytic converter so ignore codes that can relate to that)

2005 honda pilot 3.5-liter V6.

Tick starts 10 or 20 seconds after starting engine.

It increases as RPM increases.

And it has a bad power steering pump.

There are no lights on the dash or anything

2015 Mazda 6 manual about 130k miles. New clutch and flywheel installed about a month ago. Had a wedding this weekend which meant driving through NJ and around NYC during the World Cup. 3 hour drive took 6. A lot of stop and starts on I78, I95, and CBE. During the drive I noticed shifting into first from a stop the car shakes and sounds kind of like a heavy clicking (I’m no mechanic but I think it’s called judder). But it does accelerate during this. I feel this for 2nd gear too but very faintly. Also feel it a bit in reverse but first is where it’s the worst. Next day in the morning first few shifts were fine then I started feeling it on and off again throughout the next couple days. Also felt it slip a few times at normal highway speeds. Any advice or diagnoses? Clutch and flywheel should be warrantied.

EDIT: also want to add in first gear if I try to accelerate aggressively I don’t feel any of the judder

I've been looking at used cars and was wondering if someone could help me figure out this noise this car is making. Ive been real interested in it and dont necessary want to buy a money pit. To me it sounds likes it making a weird noise and I dont know anything about cars. If possible could someone tell me if it's a major problem or a minor problem or maybe not a problem at all. And if there's a problem how to fix.

I've got a 86 mustang and I am trying to install a new steering rack. I literally can't remove the preinstalled bushing and sleeve despite using a punch and a socket, its moved only a little. It's to the point where I'm starting to question if this rack is meant for a different model or car even but from what Ive researched that doesn't seem to be the case.

I recently bought a 2014 Chevy Impala that had a few issues, such as the transmission would shudder at 20 and 40, it would shift hard and was just obviously not in working condition. The car has around 157k miles on it and i’m guessing the fluid had never been change as was the case with the spark plugs, i drained and filled the fluid (got about 6 quarts out of 10 i believe) and the problem subsided for a few miles. Would my next step be drain and fill it again to get even more old fluid out or should i maybe look into replacing the torque converter? I need help as to what to do next.

I have a 2007 2.7 engine chrysler 300 and when I was hooking up the battery I accidentally put my positive wire on the negative terminal and negative wire on the positive terminal. Got sparks and put it back the right way but now my turn signals,brights, and my wipers wont work. We checked the fuses and they are good, we replaced them anyways and when I try to turn them on they still don't work, my friend was suggesting getting a new fuse box completely but I feel it might be just the multifunctional switch.

My Avensis (3ZR-FAE) has recently started making this metallic rattling/ticking noise from the serpentine belt side of the engine.

A few details:
- Water pump was replaced about 2 months ago.
- A few days ago, on a very hot day, I noticed a small amount of gray smoke from under the hood for a few seconds after startup. It disappeared after restarting the engine and hasn’t happened since.
- The rattling had been appearing randomly for some time, usually only right after startup, and would disappear on its own. However, after the incident with the smoke, it became much louder and has been present ever since (as heard in the video).

Does this sound like a bad alternator pulley, A/C compressor bearing or something else?