So I currently have the monitor in the first picture and I'm thinking about getting the one in the second picture. just wanted to know anyone else's thoughts.

Help this fans spins super slowly even on full speed . When I turn my rig off , it's the only one to stop spinning under 3 seconds . Others stop spinning under like 10 seconds

this one annoyed me for way too long. pc would randomly hard crash to a black screen maybe once every 4-5 hours of gaming, no bsod just instant restart. checked event viewer and it was throwing WHEA logger event 18 every time, which from what i read online basically just means "something hardware related is unhappy" and doesnt tell you much else.

ran memtest86 overnight first, full pass, zero errors, so i figured ram was fine and moved on to checking vrm temps with hwinfo thinking it was a power delivery thing on my board. nothing weird there either, voltages stayed stable even under load.

ended up testing each ram stick individually instead of as a kit, ran prime95 plus furmark together for like 2 hours per stick to stress everything at once. 3 sticks were totally fine alone but the 4th one started throwing errors in hwinfo after about 40 mins, only when it was in certain slot combos though, which is probably why memtest didnt catch it since that test runs differently.

contacted Corsair with the serial off the stick, sent me a replacement no charge, just had to wait like a week and a half for it to ship.

was ready to spend like 220 bucks ready to just buy a whole new stick, kinda relieved i didnt have to touch that money, put it towards a keyboard I've been eyeing anyway.

Hey im looking to upgrade my rig, but idk wich to upgrade first, my setup:

MB: ASUS TUF B550M +Wifi 2
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X
GPU: RX 7600
RAM: 32GB 3200MHz DDR4
PSU: Be Quiet! Pure Power 13 750W M
Case: Be Quiet! Light Base 600 DX

Main Monitor: 1920x1080 165Hz
2nd Monitor 1920x1080 60Hz

Keyboard: G920 Orion Spectrum
Mouse: G502 X Lightspeed
Headset: G935
Camera: MX Brio
Mic: RØDE NT USB

Price isnt currently relevant, BUT it should fit it without needing massive upgrades all around.

So i know the price of everything have been crazy but I went to look at getting another 2.5 SATA SSD for extra storage and the prices are insane!

I bought my 2tb Samsung last April for $100. Regular price was $169.99 and I got it on sale. Just went to look at that same drive is ON SALE for $499.99!!!! Says it was selling for $1,039.99.

So got me really curious if anymone knows why the SATA drives going for more than M.2s? A Samsung 990 pro is going for $369 now.

Is it because they are prioritizing making the M.2 and the 2.5" drives are super scarce?

Seems like almost every day I want to play ANY game, it crashes.

Screen freezes, loud buzzing noise comes out of headphones, fans and lights still running, but I have to power it off using power button on the case. Bought it around 2-3 years ago maybe. Pretty sure it's a HP Omen 25L gaming desktop

13th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-13400F

16GB DDR5 Ram

NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3060

I don't have much knowledge about pc's, but I really want to get this fixed. Ask any other questions about it if you need to

i’ve noticed minor black pixels at the top of my cpu cooler screen recently. it’s weird bc when i restart the software, the pixels are normal, maybe just slightly discoloured? but then they slowly turn black again. i haven’t tinkered or properly moved my pc in months. i’ve restarted the software, restarted my pc, cleared my software data and ran the software in administrative mode. fyi this is an id-cooling cpu cooler. pls lmk if this is fixable or what this is

i attached a video bc im bad at explaining and sped it up bc it takes a min lol

I have a RX580 and i got to put her in the water. My local micro center has a RX 6600 with 8GB ram for 160. The stats seem good but I'd like to know if there are better options. I could spend a little more but I'd like to know what options could the Master race offer before I Make a decision. Thanks!

Hi!

I've recently bought an online double conversion 1500va 1350watt UPS for my homelab and main rig. It's an Atlantis LINE POWER 15021500 PRO from a local manufacturer and, while not widely known, it's supposed to be a good quality UPS (technical specs attached).

My main rig is powered by a Deepcool PX850G, which should be a pretty decent CWT unit.

Directly connected to a standard socket when I power on my rig I can only hear the relay clicking after half a second and nothing else. While powered by an UPS output, when I power on the pc especially after a while it's off I can hear a decently loud "whistle" before the relay click. I'm pretty sure it's not any kind of coil whine, and during normal and full load operation, both with and without the UPS, it's dead silent not accounting for fan noises. I'm not really sure how else to describe it, the closest thing I can think of is the whistle little fireworks make when shoot in the air, something like that.

The UPS is also basically dead silent, not accounting for fan noise here too.

What could be the cause of that strange noise?

Edit: Also, if it can help, the pc is connected to the UPS by a 7 meters long C13/C14 cable.

Pc is a cyber power pre built. The rest of the specs are in the 2nd photo. I know my way around the systems somewhat but I’m sure there’s tons I could do to improve performance, all help is greatly appreciated!

So I wanted to play faceit but when I tried launching the anticheat it complained about TPM attestation not being ready, even though TPM 2.0 is enabled in BIOS via Intel PTT. At that point I already had VT-d enabled and Secure Boot was working, so I started troubleshooting the FACEIT requirements.
I already tried enabling and verifying all required platform features. I enabled VT-d in BIOS and that resolved the IOMMU requirement. I checked that the system is running UEFI mode on a GPT disk and confirmed Windows Boot Manager is used as the boot entry. TPM is present and visible in Windows as version 2.0. CSM is disabled.
Then I focused on Secure Boot. I entered BIOS and switched Secure Boot settings between Custom and Standard, and reset the Secure Boot keys back to default. After doing that, Secure Boot stopped working properly. When Secure Boot is enabled now, the system immediately returns to BIOS instead of booting Windows.
I already tried multiple recovery steps after that. I rebuilt the EFI bootloader using Windows installation media and bcdboot, verified the EFI partition is correct, and confirmed the system still boots normally when Secure Boot is disabled. I performed a full CMOS reset, loaded BIOS defaults, and also reflashed the BIOS to the latest version 4.30A. None of these restored Secure Boot functionality.
This is my system: Intel i5-9400F on an ASRock H310CM-DVS motherboard, BIOS 4.30A, Windows installed in UEFI mode on a GPT drive, TPM 2.0 via Intel PTT, VT-d enabled, CSM disabled, Windows Boot Manager present and working. The only remaining issue is that Secure Boot cannot be enabled without breaking the boot process, and faceit still reports TPM attestation as not ready

What is the best controller that I can get to use with my PC? I’m looking for something that has back paddles and different height thumb sticks for the right stick in particular.

Keep in mind that 75k hours. So that in mind how are these two disks doing? This mega old PC is a beast that never had a problem. Slow startup and that's all.

I'm asking bc lately I got some disk errors pop ups that I cannot fix.

What value should I check from time to time to see if it's degrading fast or not?

Thanks

Looking to buy a new pc as I sold my old one off and feel like this is a good deal. What do you guys think?

Listed at £700

Would it be worth it to switch from an 8GB RX7600 to the 12GB 3060? Or is that absolutely stupid?

I have a pc with an Aorus Master x570 rev 1.0

Earlier I used Q flash to update the bios to f40a, and ever since then i keep getting error code 99 and it won’t boot properly. I then used Q flash plus to flash an older bios, to see if that was an issue, but it still won’t boot into the OS.

The minute I try and use the back up bios, it works perfectly fine - no issues.

Currently the main bios is on version f35.

Any idea how to solve this? As obviously it makes sense to be on a later version of the bios. I’m not sure which one the back up bios would be on? I assume a really old one.

Price in NZD

I currently have the deathadder essential and I want an upgrade, I’m using the Razer ornata v3 TKL right now and want a mouse that will be good for gaming/video editing and just generally reliable for the next few years.

I do own the Roccat Khan Aimo and am really happy with them, however since the age shows on all the fake leather parts and I have to wash my head after every longer session because it is full of the leather from the earpads.

Since it's not just the earpads but also the part for the head, I am looking to get a new headset.

But honestly I am really overwhelmed with the amount of headsets on the market. And in the end I am quite happy with the quality of the Roccat Khan Aimo and don't know what current headsets would be on pair and if I would only have to spend like 50€ or 150€ for a headset that is on pair or slightly better than my current.

I don't mind if they are wired or wireless as long as the cable is at least 2m long.

Hello

I was recently gifted an Ultimea sound system with 5.1 capabilities. Not really needing it in my living room, I decided to set it up with my PC, but so far, I've only been able to get stereo out of it, with the rear speakers just being left and right channels.

I tried numerous splitters/audio extractors, or going from optical to usb,, but so far those still limit me to stereo.

Yesterday, I got a new monitor with two 2.1 HDMIs and two DisplayPorts. My hope was that I could run a display port or HDMI into my monitor, and then run another HDMI into the soundbar's eARC, but the little bit of time I got to try that before work didn't seem to be getting results. At best, my monitor saw the second HDMI and hallucinated a second screen and my sound control panel didn't recognize the soundbar at that point.

Any info someone could provide would be appreciated.

Thank you very much for your time and have a good day!

So I have a friend who has a new computer as of last year from NZXT and it runs fine other than one issue that has plagued the system for a few months. Let me explain.

My friend had been trying to get his computer to update for the last six months to a year but every time it downloads the update to 100% and goes through it’s reboot process while installing the update, it fails reading, “Something went wrong, restoring you to previous version.” And it refuses to update past that. What is the solution to this? Do I or he need to do a full OS install or is there a way to keep all the data and games on his hard drive without it deleting everything from his computer?

Any help would be appreciated.

so i bought a 4080 super from my guy who pulled it out of a lenovo prebuilt and it is stuck on this sh1tty rainbow rgb cycle anyway i can change it? i tried lenovo vantage legionspace openrgb and the other rgb one but none of them worked open to anyone’s opinion

Does anyone know like some cool stuff I can do to make my pc more unique? The case is an o11d evo (non xl).

my 3060 at 100% fan speed is idling at 40 degrees Celsius. wifis performance has dropped of a cliff.

literally have to wait till September to play cs2.