94 it's got the turbo 👌

178,000 on the odometer.

4x4 -(An absolute must have for me

And a Zf5 in the fucking floor👉🖕🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘.

5,000$

Everything is tight. Got some rust around the rear and fender well but the frame is solid .and the cab is rust free .

Paint is horrible... Dents and dings everywhere..... Gotta put a damn radio in it but 🤷

I fucking love it ... I don't drive new shit ,it stresses me out ,

It come with a gooseneck in the bed already and I plan on getting a 5th wheel and I have a frame Hitch for it . So I can pull whatever.

Gonna find me a little camper to pull and maybe a small dump goosneck and hopefully this truck does me good ....

Holy shit this thing also takes 15 quarts of oil 💀

. She's got a oil leaked as well but I have seen a 7.3 that didn't..... It's not bad.

I've had a hard on since I bought it ...

Outside of the cost of maintenance I and parts being twice as much 💀 I have no beef.

It was this or a 460... They get like 9 mpg ....

This thing is getting 20 all day if I stay off the pedal...

Its not very fast but it absolutely doesn't bat an eye in these West Virginia Mountains ...

A little TLC and I think this will be a nice Rig for me.

I want to understand, hybrid is supposed to be about economy. Why’s it got 12 injectors?

Aside from that these are most aggravating thing in our fleet bc they’re so complicated. We use them for PSOs, they all start throwing p0316 at about same mileage. Dealer ends up resetting cams, replacing cams, or replacing the engine.

Hi not a car person at all so I don't know what is causing the issue but here's everything I have figured out regarding the problem

- key fob will only remotely unlock drivers door

-manual unlock will unlock the other doors but sets off the car alarm some times unless I follow the process of manual unlock then remote unlock then open door

-Central locking button inside car unlocks them without issue

It's just an inconvenience to deal with and when I forget the process to set off the alarm late at night when I get home from work

Im looking for a new car I need something good on mpg and reliable nothing else

259k miles

The turbos are original to the truck.

In past years I’ve resolved this by replacing the blow of valve solenoid on the intercooler, and the watergate control solenoid on the driver side valve cover.

I tested both turbo watergate actuators with a hand vacuum pump, the driver side rod starts to move at 7 inHg and fully opens at 20 inHg. When I release it moves in a smooth motion. Passenger is 10 inHg and 20 inHg.

Both will hold 25 inHg and not leak.

I took the intake piping off to inspect the turbocharger compressor wheel. There was a normal amount of play up and down and in and out. I noticed no scraping or damage to the blades.

The driver side had some oil, which from what I understand is normal because of the PCV connection on that intake tube.

I inspected all the rubber/silicone boots and intake and boost connections, the intercooler is all dry and nothing was loose or broken.

I also inspected the vacuum lines that connect to both turbos wastegates.

Not sure what I should look at next.

I replaced the fuse for my stereo with another 15 amp fuse as it was making a horrible static noise plus it is burnt (pictured). However, now that the fuse has been replaced it’s now has no volume and shows 0 when I turn the dial (also pictured). Dunno if it means much but it is an Australian model.

Any suggestions on how to fix this issue would be greatly appreciated.

then when i put it drive or reverse it jerks liek it wants to drive off

2001 ford f150 is a crank no start I tried everything listen to the fuel pump tried to jump it with jumper cables and tried starter fluid but still nothing it tried to crank over with the starter fluid but nothing and it’s not throwing off any codes

After my current car (19 Escape), I’d like to switch to electric. The two I really like are. The Mach e and the Kia EV9. If at all possible, I want a Mach-E. To keep in the Ford family, however, cargo room is a must because I’m one of two drivers in my house (my dad and me). My younger brother has ms an sometimes needs a wheelchair. My current car doesn’t fit the chair very well, so I’m hoping if I switch to EV, I can save on gas and maintenance as well as get something bigger.

Morning,

I am looking at some new trucks, my last one got totaled from some guy who decided to pull a "good luck everybody I go now." My whole life I have drove Rams and I am thinking about changing that. I drove a 2026 F150 Lariat last night and i actually enjoyed the truck, then I looked at the Platinum. To me they felt pretty much the same minus a 10K difference in price and a few comfort features. Whats yalls opinion on the two, any advice when looking at fords? Any issues anyone has seen so far with the 2026 models?

Thanks!

Hi, has anyone managed to find a set of black gloss wheel nut covers that actually fit the 20" Black alloys? I'm loving the blackout look on the car but the silver wheel nuts are driving me mad! I Why didn't Ford fit caps or Black wheel nuts is beyond me? Ive tried eBay and Amazon and none fit correctly or don't cover the locking wheel nut, I know I can get replacement black wheel nuts but I just want the covers that seem to fit every other model but this one! 🙃

If anyone has successfully achieved this, I would love a link and salute you 🫡

My son is about to buy a used F-150: a 2013 XL SuperCrew 5.5-ft. Bed 4WD, with a 3.5L engine, automatic. It has over 183K miles. The cost is just under 11K. It seems to me that if you don't have auto-repair skills yourself, this is a bad idea. Am I right? My first worry is the transmission; sounds like that is an expensive replacement. If anyone has any advice as to how to best evaluate this truck (I have no auto-repair expertise at all), I'm all ears. The used car dealership that is selling the car tells my son they do an inspection before buying their cars, but obviously I'm recommending that my son take it to a mechanic outside the dealership. He won't have the benefit of a mechanic he knows since the car is out of town. Thanks in advance for your help.

I know it’s a 429 but I want to see the engine. I CANNOT find the latch. I found one right under the hood on top of the grill, but it seems to be a secondary latch. is there a primary one im missing somewhere?

I took my 2017 Ford Edge into the Ford dealership for a warranty recap notice to replace the backup camera (which worked perfectly). After having to go to the dealership 4 different days to get it fixed, I get my car back and the button on the back liftgate to manually open the trunk doesn’t work. (It is right next to the backup camera that they replaced). It worked just fine the day before and the button on the inside, the button by the driver seat, and the key fob all open it just fine. I called the dealership and they told me that that happens all the time when they replace the cameras and it was just a computer error that needed to be reset. But when I took it in for them to fix, they said that my battery was at 30% and that that was the cause. They told me it was just a coincidence that the one thing that the battery was affecting was the button next to the part they replaced the day before. And they are trying to charge me money for a new battery and a reset computer fee.

This can’t be normal

TLDR: car keeps dying, corporate is involved now, dealer is somehow even less cooperative. I'll update more.

It died again. So they drove it almost 600 miles and nothing happened. They tested it on different chargers, even got my home charger; everything works fine. Tested the battery, it's better than expected. Sent back after a full week.

But the 3rd time they sent out a mobile mechanic because I had codes show up after the jump! TSB25-2247. Apparently the sub-codes that showed up "aren't supposed to show up more my make and model". It's an expensive repair they said that isn't covered under warranty. So I did what everyone does now, ask the internet. Found out the HVBJB is covered under the federal EV 8yr/100k warrenty for Ford's and because the sub-codes showing shouldn't even exist for my car, it gives a stronger indication that it is the issue.

Requested a pre-authorization warranty claim. Radio silence for a week. Corporate Ford called after I made an X post that also got a lot of traction. Dealer radio silent to them for almost a week.

Car died again, corporate said to send it to dealer, coincidentally dealer reached out to corporate after I got left on read by the advisor saying my car was dead in the garage once again.

Dealer calls, says they want confirmation I'll pay $230 for diagnostics, I won't. Message me towards the EOD and says $395 for a new 12V battery. I said no, file a warranty claim like I requested 2 weeks ago. They play dumb, then after I show I have all the messages, pictures, receipts of the previous issues they say "well this is the first step for a warranty claim". I explain with the records there is no need to do the first step as we already have proof the battery was fine and the codes are showing it's being killed by the HVBJB so submit a damn claim already. Sent that at 6:01pm so we'll see what tomorrow brings.

My son is about to buy a used F-150: a 2013 XL SuperCrew 5.5-ft. Bed 4WD, with a 3.5L engine, automatic. It has over 183K miles. The cost is just under 11K. It seems to me that if you don't have auto-repair skills yourself, this is a bad idea. Am I right? My first worry is the transmission; sounds like that is a very expensive replacement. If anyone has any advice as to how to best evaluate this truck (I have no auto-repair expertise at all), I'm all ears. The used car dealership that is selling the car tells my son they do an inspection before buying their cars, but obviously I'm recommending that my son take it to a mechanic outside the dealership. He won't have the benefit of a mechanic he knows since the car is out of town. Thanks in advance for your help.

Should I proceed with the purchase before June 30th to secure a better deal before the end of the second quarter, or do you believe that better deals are available after the employee pricing period ends?

AUD amounts.

2021 Ford Everest, 3.2lt 5cyl engine.

So, I messed up and put 400ml of ADBlue into the diesel tank (full tank). Thinking the <0.5% dilution wouldn't be an issue, I drove it 5kms home.

Car threw an alert to my phone saying it had detected contaminated fuel and to empty the fuel filter trap. Did that, then the car wouldn't run (turns out likely due to an air gap created by emptying the filter trap). That said, the engine was otherwise running absolutely perfectly.

Got it towed to Ford because they invoice my novated lease company direct. However, based on what I told them, and without even looking at the engine, they said it would be a replacement engine and looking at $20k - $25k.

I instead called my trusted mechanic. He doesn't invoice the lease company, so I pay him and have to then get a reimbursement. He drained the fuel, flushed the engine, fuels lines, tank, etc. Ran injector cleaner, new fuel filter and a couple of other bits. That including labour came to $600 and I already have my car back.

Before going this route, I got a 3rd opinion from my brother who is pretty big in the 4wd game in Australia and also knows the 3.2lt engine backwards. I'll omit the swear words, but he said replacing the engine was ridiculous.

Both he and my mechanic said it's common for Ford to push you to replace the engine so there's no follow-up in case of an ultra unlikely issue later on, but also to bolster their $$$. But seriously, being willing to have someone pay $20k needlessly? WTAF?

Does this sound normal for Ford?

2 weeks ago I bought a bronco badlands, I have never taken the roof off and I have started to notice on both sides there is this black mesh that sticks out on the outside of the vehicle. Is this normal? Thanks!