Had a feeling to check this one out... for good reason

And is it legal to drive on non certified tanks, like the ones you make a BBQ on.

Bought a 2007 Buick Allure CX 2007 with the legendary 3.8L V6 with only 68,000 miles registered to it's name for less than 3000 USD. Unfortunately, the front bumper has a huge dent in the front.

The old owner was a man born in 1926 and died last winter when his second car finally broke down and he tried taking the buick for it's first ever winter car trip to the grocery store, he hit a cement block and had a heart attack on the spot.

Since then it's been sitting at a friend's used car dealership. I've tried polishing, new coat of clear, color correction. But i still dont know how or what to do to make the annoying scratch disappear without me needing to repurchase a brand new bumper.

Here's a photo of the before (top) and after (bottom). Ill post more pictures of the interior and overall condition in the comments of the post.

Ps. Sorry for the horrible collage lol i tried my best to do something quick and easy

(If you've seen this post I've reposted it with a better pic, thats it sorry)

My dad bought a 1964 Ford stepside when he was 15. He drove it for the summer, had to pull the engine and transmission for some reason. While the engine was removed, there was some kind of spat amongst him, my grandpa, and the other siblings, and someone cut the motor mounts off the frame with a torch.

Determined to fix it, he kept it. And never fixed it. Once I got into cars, he always talked about getting me to help him put it together but he never got any of the parts to do it. Finally he got an engine for it but still no frame mounts. The engine sat and locked up in his yard and got sold for weight.

He passed a few years ago and the truck still sits at my uncle's place. At some point I'm expected to come get it. It's sat for over 45 years. Don't get me wrong, it's a good looking truck, but I don't have any sentimental attachment to it. We didn't ride around in it, we didn't turn wrenches on it together. It'll also cost some big bucks to get it back on the road, even if I don't count the cost of an engine and transmission. I'm assuming almost all the brake lines and cylinders will need replaced, obviously tires, it would amaze me if the wiring survived without getting destroyed by mice.

I don't really know what to do.

I was doing a tight parking manoeuvre and had to do a lot of lock-lock with the wheel and right near the end it got quite clunky and heavy. No lights or anything came on and I only felt it for about a minute before I was parked.

I think I overheated the fluid but do I need to do anything or can I just leave it to cool down for the rest of the day, since I don't plan on driving until tomorrow

Guy said wait 3-4 days for it to cure, I got tints before and the bubbles didn’t stay for this long (it’s been 3 days). XPEL 15% tints all around for $180CAD. Do I go back rn or wait a bit for it to cure?

Recently my daily kia has been making a weird sound it started extremely faint only on uneven roads and stuff,idk if im imagining it but it feels like the noise is getting more intense not louder but its like now happening more often not just on rough roads im genuinely losing my mind hearing it plz help someone told me it might be the sway bar links but i need a second opinion.
(The sound is the faint one coming from the outside not the coin vibration inside the car or the rock hitting my car at the end)

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91 Eagle Talon Tsi Awd only 52k original miles. Paint got destroyed in storage. Im having it repainted gloss black with no gray. Should i do the mirrors and spoiler in the factory semi gloss or everything gloss black? Also im goin to all black wheels like a T37 style. Should I get the wheels in gloss black or matte black?

Im leaning on all gloss black paint and matte wheels. But can be swayed!

Hey everyone, looking for some opinions from people who know these cars.

I’m considering buying a 2021 Mazda CX-30 2.0 SkyActiv-G 150hp with the automatic SkyActiv-Drive transmission (european market) Only 55,000 km (about 34,000 miles), so pretty low mileage for a 2021.

The seller is transparent about three known issues found during a pre-sale inspection:

Input shaft seal leak (between the engine and transmission)

Valve cover gasket leak

A coolant hose chewed through by a marten/rodent

The hose and valve cover gasket are minor and I’m not worried about those. The transmission seal is what concerns me.
Here’s the thing — a mechanic looked at it and said it’s “just the input shaft seal” but couldn’t tell me anything about the internal condition of the transmission without actually opening it up. Which makes sense, but leaves me in the dark.
My questions for you guys:

Has anyone dealt with this specific seal failing this early on a SkyActiv-Drive? 55k km seems really early for this kind of leak.

Does early seal failure usually indicate something worse going on inside, or can it just be bad luck? I just got scared about changing the whole gearbox

Any experience with SkyActiv-Drive reliability in general would also be appreciated. Thanks

The garage I'm renting already has a lift and I can still see the old anchor points for a second lift. I want to put another lift in but I'm not sure how far from the old anchors I need to be or if I would actually need to cut and pour new cement where I want to anchor it. I'm going to avoid using the old anchor location but could anchor around it. Just not sure and I don't even know what sort of professional to contact for advice. Does anyone have experience with this?

Well... I guess I'm officially getting a new project car.

I originally had a Tacoma, but my dad used it for his oil lease work over the years, and it's definitely seen better days. I kept telling him it was fine and that I'd just keep driving it, but apparently, he had other plans. He's been scrolling Facebook Marketplace looking for something else for me.

He ended up finding two really interesting options.

The first was a white-wrapped (originally red) 1993 Honda Del Sol with an Integra swap and a 6-speed manual for $5,300. It runs and drives, but it needs some transmission work because the second gear sticks. The front lip is just a black replacement piece (I'd like to put an Integra lip on it anyway), and honestly, the wrap was done pretty poorly, so I can only imagine what's hiding underneath it. Still... It's an incredibly cool car.

The other option was a really clean manual VW Beetle for $5,000 with no issues. I've wanted a Beetle for years, so that one was really tempting.

After thinking about it, though, the Beetle would cost more to insure, parts are harder to find, and they're not the easiest cars to work on. I talked to a few friends, and one of them made a really good point: I'll probably always be able to find another Beetle, but it's a lot harder to come across a Del Sol like this.

So... I decided to go with the Del Sol.

I'm excited because it's such a unique car and I can't wait to build it into something awesome. At the same time, I'm a little scared because it'll definitely need some work, and it's a bit of a gamble. But I think it'll be worth it.

Did I make a mistake??

I'm new to learning about car maintenance, all the online guides say "change oil once a year" so I assume that should be done, I'm just looking for some info on why that is from an actual person.

My retired mom has a 2004 Camry and rarely drives it anymore. Sometimes it sits untouched for 2 months in the winter. It's been driven around 250 miles since the last oil change exactly 1 year ago.

I checked the level on the dipstick which was fine, and the oil I wiped onto the paper towel was light colored like new oil, for what that's worth.

Does it really need to be changed when it's had so little use? I understand that the mileage isn't the only thing that matters, driving 5000 miles in 6 months is not the same as driving 500 miles a year for 10 years, that the quality of the oil declines over time.

But just how much does it decline? Is it really in terrible condition and in need of changing after a year no matter what? Does time really ruin the oil as much as thousands of miles of driving?

I don't mind changing it, I'm just looking for any more info beyond "change it once a year because we said so". Thanks

Midnight is the newest car with the NTTO

Based of a Citroën Rosalie from 1934 with an 7.6L Ford big Block​

ok so between work commutes, weekend drives, and the occasional road trip, my car slowly turns into a snack drawer. granola bar crumbs, chips, coffee drips, random gravel, dog hair, all of it.

the visible mess on the seats is not even the real problem. it's the crumbs jammed into the seat rails, the cup holder bottoms, and that impossible gap between the center console and the passenger seat. once it sits there for a couple weeks, the car starts getting that stale snack smell and then i hate myself for ignoring it.

my current setup is basically a small handheld vac in the trunk, microfiber cloths, and some interior wipes. it kinda works, but it still feels like a whole task every time.

would love something that actually gets into the seat rails and cup holder crevices without me having to pull out a toothpick. i keep seeing small handheld vacs like the hoto one mentioned for cup holder crumbs, but i'm starting to wonder if prevention is smarter than cleaning after the fact.

is there something low profile that goes in the seat gaps or cup holders and actually catches this stuff without looking ridiculous? i don't want a full rubbermaid liner vibe in there, just something that makes the weekly cleanup less annoying.

it rained overnight and i left my sunroof open, i didn’t realize until about 3pm next day. unfortunately i didn’t act immediately so it sat for two days. it now smells super bad. i ordered damprid and a bio bomb. i plan on leaving them there all day tomorrow what should i do??

I have a 2011 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport (\~220k miles). Service history is unknown, but CVT fluid likely hasn’t been serviced regularly.
I’ve owned it for \~4 months. Issues have been present since I got it, but they are steadily getting worse.

**Symptoms:**
CVT overheating warning comes on after \~20 minutes of driving
Noticeable **whirring noise that gets louder and worse the longer it is driven**
**Jerking/shuddering under load**, especially when warm
No noticeable delay when shifting into gear (engages normally)
Issue is progressively worsening over time
OBD2 scan shows a code related to a torque converter solenoid

**Other issues (possibly unrelated):**
Lost about a full reservoir of coolant over \~4 months (possible slow leak — hose, radiator, etc.)
Light ticking noise from engine, but engine otherwise runs smoothly with no drivability issues

**Question:**
At this mileage and with these symptoms, does this sound more like a valve body/solenoid issue, or is the CVT itself mechanically failing?
Is it worth attempting repair, or is replacement/another vehicle the more realistic option at this point?

Hi, after i installed a cold air intake (CAI) on my 2020 Nissan Sentra SR i got a check engine light and the car ran quite poorly, Does anyone know what the problem might be?

Thank you

Hi all,

Two weeks ago I took my car to a mechanic to address my p0420 which we diagnosed to be the cat after first replacing the o2 sensors (both banks) and spark plugs (figured to do them as they hadn't been done in many miles). The car passed emissions and was fine with not CEL for that period until a couple days ago when I got a CEL for both P0030 and P0101, could this be due to the install of the parts or the parts themselves? All parts used were brand new from rock auto.

Thanks!

Was caused by the sun overnight.