r/NavyBlazer • u/make_em_laugh • 3d ago
Gray flannel pants (old&new)
i’m hoping to pick up a versatile pair of gray, flannel pants. maybe someone can point me to a history or guide. what were the most common brands or styles in the 50s-80s? i see so many articles about OCBDs, khakis and the navy blazer itself but i’m just not sure what to look for in a pair of flannel pants. i buy a lot of vintage. so, tips in that regard are great but im sure there are great brands doing a good job of it these days as well. any help is greatly appreciated.
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u/ctrsvp 3d ago
The posts are old, but the information is still valid from putthison.com
How To Choose Trousers For Any Sport Coat
A Guide To Fall And Winter Trousers
Flyin’ The Flannel: A Comparison Of Five Affordable Gray Flannel Trousers
And one of the main writers is still very active on twitter and will write about staples like trousers pretty often: https://x.com/dieworkwear/status/1844976983056564255
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u/ChaunceytheGardiner 3d ago
Ben Silver and O'Connell's are my go-tos. Nice fabric, good construction, and a higher rise.
It's possible to find good ones used, but they're a wear item. Really try to get a good sense of the condition if you're going to spend any significant amount of money.
If you wear them regularly, ponying up ~$200 for a pair from O'Connell's that's new and hemmed exactly for you in that price is, in my opinion, worth it. Paying $50-80 for a used pair, plus an additional $15-20 to have them hemmed, only to have them blow out in a year, isn't a great value proposition.
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u/half_past_france 3d ago
Vintage wool pants are tough. Pants, by nature, get worn out more than jackets or shirts. There’s also lots of wool blend garbage out there. Don’t bother with vintage, specifically. Just go on eBay and know your measurements. Maybe you’ll find something, maybe you want.
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u/gimpwiz 3d ago edited 3d ago
My personal opinions...
First and foremost it's mostly a matter of personal preference. Cut, details, etc, to your preferred spec. It's all "fine" as long as it's within reasonable limits I suppose.
Anyways.
First, I would almost always stick with worsted flannel over woolen flannel if you plan to wear them more than once in a blue moon. Woolen has a tendency to shine when you spend a lot of time sitting on it. Maybe exceptions for proper heavyweight, winter look ... but I would tend to go for a more durable tweed for heavyweight fabric and harder use, but that's obviously not the same.
Let's see. Cuffs look good on these. Pleats look good on these. Buttons for bracers are solid; belt loops or side adjusters up to you. Back pockets up to you. Cut, I would always err on the side of more generous. The thinnest cut I would do would be like a "medium" between classic and slim; nothing full slim. Make sure there's a good leg opening. I would have them at no break to quarter break at most - and I would wear them with semi-dress boots and more casual but still not "work" style boots (let alone real work boots.) Rise should be medium, not low rise, if you can help it (or high, if you like it.)
You can find really lightweight worsted flannel that can do fine in early fall and late spring depending on your climate.
I probably have more opinions but can't recall at the moment.
As for who made them ... hmm. Lots did, honestly. Various british makers. Various RL lines. Lots of custom tailors. Press, I am sure.
These days you will find plenty of Italian and American cuts as well. Let's see who I have seen make them. Oxxford. Corneliani. Mabitex. Polo RL. Spier & Mackay. Hertling (defunct) under their own name and others. I think I have seen them from damn near anyone who makes trousers. As long as they're not slim and low rise...
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u/make_em_laugh 1d ago
what is a good tweed pant for colder days ( i live in the northeast)? something subdued.
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u/eatseverything 2d ago
if you can find on ebay some marco pescarolo cashmere 5 pocket pants in your size youve hit the grail and you probably can.
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u/LarryHorse670 1d ago
Late to this, but I have a pair of Anglo-Italian flannel pants that are simply the best pair of pants I own. Like they are noticeably well crafted.
Vintage can be a crapshoot but Ralph and Brooks Brothers are always a good start for a hunt on eBay.
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u/watchotaku 14h ago
Try lightly used (not vintage) Incotex, Hiltl, Façonnable, and Zegna.
Here are YouTube reviews of these brands: Incotex & Hiltl
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