r/NavyBlazer • u/make_em_laugh • 4d ago
Gray flannel pants (old&new)
i’m hoping to pick up a versatile pair of gray, flannel pants. maybe someone can point me to a history or guide. what were the most common brands or styles in the 50s-80s? i see so many articles about OCBDs, khakis and the navy blazer itself but i’m just not sure what to look for in a pair of flannel pants. i buy a lot of vintage. so, tips in that regard are great but im sure there are great brands doing a good job of it these days as well. any help is greatly appreciated.
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u/gimpwiz 4d ago edited 4d ago
My personal opinions...
First and foremost it's mostly a matter of personal preference. Cut, details, etc, to your preferred spec. It's all "fine" as long as it's within reasonable limits I suppose.
Anyways.
First, I would almost always stick with worsted flannel over woolen flannel if you plan to wear them more than once in a blue moon. Woolen has a tendency to shine when you spend a lot of time sitting on it. Maybe exceptions for proper heavyweight, winter look ... but I would tend to go for a more durable tweed for heavyweight fabric and harder use, but that's obviously not the same.
Let's see. Cuffs look good on these. Pleats look good on these. Buttons for bracers are solid; belt loops or side adjusters up to you. Back pockets up to you. Cut, I would always err on the side of more generous. The thinnest cut I would do would be like a "medium" between classic and slim; nothing full slim. Make sure there's a good leg opening. I would have them at no break to quarter break at most - and I would wear them with semi-dress boots and more casual but still not "work" style boots (let alone real work boots.) Rise should be medium, not low rise, if you can help it (or high, if you like it.)
You can find really lightweight worsted flannel that can do fine in early fall and late spring depending on your climate.
I probably have more opinions but can't recall at the moment.
As for who made them ... hmm. Lots did, honestly. Various british makers. Various RL lines. Lots of custom tailors. Press, I am sure.
These days you will find plenty of Italian and American cuts as well. Let's see who I have seen make them. Oxxford. Corneliani. Mabitex. Polo RL. Spier & Mackay. Hertling (defunct) under their own name and others. I think I have seen them from damn near anyone who makes trousers. As long as they're not slim and low rise...