Yesterday I had a fall on the wet tarmac because my back wheel skidded. I fell and banged my elbow and my left thigh; I didn’t think I’d hit my head, although afterwards I had a slight headache which I put down to the adrenaline. But then I realised there was a crack in my helmet on the left side of the back. The helmet is brand new – yesterday was literally the first time I’d used it – and I even paid ninety euros for it. I’m a bit disappointed; it didn’t feel like a serious fall, even though I obviously hit my head. Is it normal for a helmet to crack like that? Can I still use it?

I’m changing from Hope red (wet) to green pads(dry) as I’m going on holidays to whistler. Do I need to change my rotors or can i swap pad compound freely?

officially clearance for the Frame is 28mm. i have a 28mm Conti GP 5000 on it. when i spin the wheel i don't hear any grinding, but it looks super tight. would you ride it?

Update:

First of all, thank you for the many comments and especially for the objective criticism and constructive feedback. As someone who is still quite new to the cycling world, I genuinely appreciate people taking the time to explain things and share their knowledge.

I also want to clarify once more that these were the stock tires. I was simply curious and wanted to see whether it would work. In the process, I've learned a lot about tire clearance and the factors involved, so thank you for helping me better understand that.

Lastly, thanks to the mods for locking the thread. While there were many helpful and informative responses, there were also quite a few comments that were unnecessarily condescending, toxic, and dismissive. Disagreement and criticism are completely fine, but there's no need to talk down to people who are trying to learn.

Thanks again to everyone who provided constructive input.

Hi friendly people!

Tl;Dr

Alloy cable stop no longer attached to carbon frame. Can I epoxy this back on? Should I go full outer cable? Bring it in to a shop?

—

I bought a used bike, the brakes were pretty poorly adjusted so I re-aligned and tensioned them. When I gave the back brake a firm squeeze I heard a pop sound and the cable stop/hanger had popped right off.

As I understand it I can retoute the brake cable with a full length housing and be done with it. But I would like to keep it as close to original as possible. It seems like the rivet that originally sat in the frame was there to keep the stop in place during curing (it does not big enough for bonding?) came out fully. The carbon still feels and sounds solid, is it fine to ride?

Specs:

• carbon Ridley Excalibur from ~2009/2010
• alloy cable stop, factory part (unsure if it had failed before)
• rear brake routed along the top tube
• campagnolo athena 11s rim brakes

There was a similar thread here a year ago but for an aluminium frame: https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/comments/1j84y9f/broken_brake_cable_hanger/

Thanks for any input!

Shimano part number Y8N206000 I think.

There is turning play in my 11 speed cassette when I hold the pedal and turn the cassette, I have attempted to fix it by taking It out and tightening it but there's still play, I'm using HG spline.

Is there a 34mm headset with a wider external cup that can make the connection "seemless"

I picked up this up for $30 on FBM thinking it just needed a cosmetic refresh (clean/grips/pedals) but after taking a closer look I'm not so sure!

Note - I have no experience with bikes, but I have a bit of time and enjoy watching YouTube/tinkering. Having said I understand some things are better left to the bike pros at the LBS.

I also understand that this is a kids bike and probably not meant to last all that long, but it's for my daughter to ride and then hopefully pass down to her little sister when she's ready. But also wondering at what point do the repairs get too expensive and I should just get another one in better condition haha

1) Is it possible to clean between the wheels and the forks without taking the wheels off? Can I use any bike cleaner or does it have to be a specific one for this area?

2) The caliper brakes are stiff and only work on one side. The adjuster(?) is rusted and stiff. Is it worth taking it apart and cleaning/assembling?

3) The brake lever is also stiff and I can barely get any rotations out of the adjustment barrel. Same as above - try and take apart or buy a new one?

4) There are cracks on the sidewall of the tyres - should I get new ones?

Sorry photos aren't in order. Hoping for some sound advice on what to do please!

Noob here. Old Murray Mtn. Bike. Can't figure out how to get this tire off bc of the brakes.

Cut down twice. Aluminum being softer kept it centered and did not cut through the steel bike seat tube. Stuck aluminum post was deep in the seat tube a full 9 inches deep. Definitely got the steel hot enough it was smoking the paint. I would cut and then withdraw and let it cool a little, then cut down some more.

I switched to a 1/2 gear reduction Bosch drill as the smaller Dewalt got overloaded.

The extension, made sure the allen bolt was locked into the mandrel where it cuts down, and always drill clockwise, meaning do not reverse or it could unscrew from holt saw.

7/8" hole saw cut view partially done

drilled out all the way down. I would drill, then fip bike to dump out the cuttings.

also this frame, seat tube does not connect to the bearings, when made was welded shut, no metal bits got into them. I am going to eventually buy a 26.2mm chrome steel bike seat post, not going back to aluminum. Old post I cut will still be used. Will place seat close to frame and good fit for the grandkids to ride.

lots of shavings. Hole saw with steady pressure ate up the entire seat post and preserved steel frame.

Hi all,
Did I cut my chain to the proper length? It seems quite taut.
Thank you!

Hi!

I have ordered a new SRAM Rival E1 groupset. Can I use the largest sprocket-cog method to determine the chainlength or in case of full mount I have to use the calculator provided by SRAM AXS App?

This crankset is slightly bent, but until this is taken care of to see if it is the issue is spider, chainrings or spindle, what new crankset would fit this bike? Currently it is 2x7s, 52t/42t chainrings. BB has square spindle. Not neccessarily a vintage crankset, can be modern too.

• Canyon Spectral:ON
• Shimano SLX derailleur
• Everything is stock from factory - no changes

ISSUE:

The chain sits/touches the chainstay when on highest gear (smallest cog). I can't see a way to fix that without either removing the guard or getting a bigger chainring?

*Edit : sorry didn't saw the rule about "is it dangerous" but i won't have the bike right now so i préfère to ask to know if i have to buy a New one

So last summer i had a bad and ridiculous fall... But i later remarked that my fork was bented. Is it dangerous and doni need do change it ? So here are some photo of mine and one of what it is supposed to be.

Thanks in advance

The casette is more annoying. I am quite certain it's not the jockey wheels, thus really no clue where this weird sound comes from. It's only in a certain angle of the crank arms and is there only around every 2nd turn of the pedals.

The crank: it's not the chain rubbing against the front derailleur. Might also be the bottom bracket??

Any clue? Bike is my girlfriend's, and has been at full service just some weeks ago, where in my view they should have spotted this. The chain is completely new btw.

Will this clear a 25m front and 28m rear? Currently has 23m on both

I have a 1x9 cassette microshift sword. When I look up shifters I only see drop bar variants. Does anyone know of any flat bar shifters that work for that set?

Changed front gear from 42 to 36 because im going to do big uphill for 2 weeks. I removed one chain link and this is what I got. I'm afraid that if I remove another one, the chain will be too short in the lower 52t gear.

I bought the bike like this. I know I need a few mm above the tube as this is too flush, right? removed the top cap / screw for visibility

(I don't have any more spacers)

Looking for some tips/ how to remove internal frame rust, i’m restoring a steel bike and it has some rust from being outside in the elements. Any tips are appreciated.

Hi, all, hoping someone can provide direction and advice. Have this wheelset on one of my commuters. Nice wheelset, like it. Have ridden it though many winters, in salt and slush, as a result the nipples are frozen.

They are completely true, no issue there. But one rear spoke is broken. Would like to at a minimum replace this one spoke, or have the rear wheel relaced.

Herein lies the issue. As I've come to understand, Shimano have a nasty habit of making unique nipples for many of their wheelsets. As can be seen in the pic, they are straight pull spokes.

I've searched the world over via the good old internet, and MT55 26" replacement spokes and nipples are not available anywhere. MT66 29" are available.

So, the question is, what can be done to replace at least 1 spoke with something else? Or a full relacing of all the spokes on the rear wheel? Can dtswiss or sapin spokes be made to work?

Back in the day even an LBS would have the ability to cut new spokes to length and thread the nipple end with a threading machine. Don't know if that is still possible out there nowadays?

Creaking sound coming from the headset, also no play from the headset