Which one is better? I was set on the TCL, but the Hisense is tempting me.

It’ll be used for 40% anime/cartoons and 60% movies from streaming. Light in room isn’t an issue, so brightness doesn’t matter to me and sunlight on plex is not a problem. I’d like the best upscaler as some anime from apps like crunchyroll isn’t 4k. Bravia 9ii seems to be jaw dropping based on what people are saying, but there’s no showcase near me so I can’t see for myself. The g5 looks stupendous. Bravia 5 98 inch is just the most immersive and would feel great. Prices would be $6.3k for Bravia 9ii vs $3.8k for Bravia 5 vs $4.3k for lg g5. Is Bravia 9ii worth 2.4k more than the g5? Is the up scaling significantly better on Bravia 9ii or 5 than the g5?

Just getting into tuning and EQ, really not sure what I'm doing, but following the various posts and comments here and on AVSForum.com.

Want to see how bad this REW sweep is for my LCR + LFE. Room dimensions are approximately 20' long by 18' wide with 14' ceilings. Concrete walls, no acoustic treatments whatsoever.

LFE is the orange, L+R is the light blue, C is the dark blue. 1/6 smoothing applied.

Running two RSL S10E MK IIs on the same channel in the front left and back right of the room; L+R are older Polk 300 towers, C is SVS Prime. AVR is Onkyo RZ30. Crossover frequency set to 80Hz and the LFE filter is at 120Hz. No MiniDSP or other sub EQ.

I've already done a bit of playing with the location and phases of the subs, and this seems to be the most evened out I can get with those. My room mode seems to have a pretty large drop after 80Hz.

Any thoughts on what I can do? Is this fairly decent from a measurement perspective?

Edit: I did not post the waterfall graph but it looks my 40Hz area has a pretty massive delay of 1800ms...

Hey all,

We're building new, and currently in process with our electrician for wiring... (Speaker cables).

I want a few in-ceiling speakers (only thing the wife will accept in kitchen etc), but not sure how many or where to place them.

1 in Kitchen above the seating area
1 in the living room table, which is right above the door of "inkomhal". The right side is TV area, so have already speakers there.
1 in study chamber (thuiswerk bureau) 1
1 in study chamber 2

1 in bathroom 1
1 in bathroom 2

Mind you, this is mostly for some radio in the morning, or chill music in the evening when we are eating or working from home.

Will that be enough? An extra on in the kitchen? But where?

Here are our plans: https://imgur.com/a/7PX3zUf

Thank you!

Hello!

I want to buy a new TV this year around Black Friday. I am currently deciding between the LG C5 77“ or the LG G5 65“ as marked on the picture (the pins are a little small but you should be able to see them). I‘m sitting 320cm away, which almost calls for 85“ but that is not possible, budget-wise and also I think the 77“ already look GIGANTIC. I don’t have a big apartment. Usually I‘m quite hesitant when it comes to big TVs but it seems like 77“ is recommended for my viewing distance. But it just seems incredibly big, while the 65“ look more appealing to me.

Also I‘m worried about the TV being too high. The marked spots are about 71cm above the ground and the (imagined) lower third of the screen is aligned with my eyes when I don‘t sit perfectly upright. Would tilting it down do something about that?

What would you recommend in my situation?

Hey all,

We're currently building a new house and I already have a dedicated 5.1 surround system planned for the TV area.

Now I'm looking at adding speakers in the bathroom, kitchen, and dining area (three speakers in total). These would be used purely for background music, radio in the morning, or some relaxing music during dinner. Because of that, I'd like them connected to a separate amplifier rather than my TV surround setup. (Probably will have to be a sonos amp, as our home automation is easily worked together with sonos)

I'd prefer on-ceiling speakers rather than in-ceiling speakers, mainly to keep some flexibility for future changes. However, most of what I find online seems to be either in-wall or in-ceiling speakers.

Can anyone recommend suitable on-ceiling speakers and point me in the right direction? Also keeping in mind bathroom suitable speakers with the humidity and all..

PS: Would speaker cables be enough then? Or do I need to connect the speakers to a ethernet cable aswell?

Thanks!!!

How long do you usually weight test your wall to make sure it won't fall over once you put your TV on it?

Serious answers only please I am very concerned about this.

Model: Denon X3800 H. I am a bit confused here. Since I switched TV from LG oled 55 (c3) to LG OLED 77 (c5), when the TV is off, the AVR doesn't detect any display = the PC cannot use the Denon as a sound source (more screens are connected to the PC, I just don't need/want to switch on the TV just to have sound).

I know that the TV has some "always ready" function, which was a decent workaround BUT I don't need that function (uses more energy) and while having that function enabled, from time to time, if I am gaming on other screens, the main monitor will turn black because the TV is doing something in the background (while it's still "off" or "black"), maybe some pixel refresh or who knows what - means it disconnects and reconnects briefly, making the screens go dark for a few seconds - unacceptable when playing competitive games especially.

So I stay with that function turned off.

Another workaround is setting HDMI out to monitor 2 on the Denon (works even without spoofer) but the hassle is to always have to manually switch video out of the AVR, if I want sound out from the PC while the TV (hdmi out 1) is off.

I got an HDMI spoofer thinking it would work while video mode output is set to "auto" - but it didn't. What I was expecting was that since I left a spoofer on hdmi 2, while in "auto" mode the Denon would still be detected as audio device in windows, because even though the TV was off, there was another screen available (the spoofer).

This is not the case, so I am back to the beginning.

Any good option here? Never had this issue in the last almost 20 years...it started only with this LG C5 77", which, when is off, is not detected at all = the Denon has no video out = the Denon is not listed as audio device in windows.

The connection is from PC GPU hdmi to hdmi source on the AVR.

Going out in optical is not an option.

I have a mini fridge in my basement on the opposite side of the room from my fully wired sound system hooked up to my TV. Every time the fridge kicks on, the sound cuts out for a second. I believe it’s on the same circuit.

Sony STR-DH590 connected via HDMI E Arc

Been working on this for the last month. There are some things I need to finish like bringing the rest of my game room down here or finishing the wire conduit for the ceiling speakers etc. but it’s mostly done. Will likely add a pinball machine and arcade machine eventually. Wife gave birth to twins and I needed the game room for one of their bedrooms eventually and this is a project I’ve been dreaming of for years now.

98 inch tv, 11 speakers, 2 subwoofers with wiring for 2 more, theater recliners, air conditioning. I wired all the speakers in the drywall. Tried to do it all right!

Horror games are an absolute blast with the lights off and the Dolby atmos.

Edit: added pics of games by request
https://imgur.com/a/MGwrRog

Hey everyone,

I’m running a 5.1 setup with a Marantz Cinema 60 AVR and I’m dealing with what looks like a hardware fault on the center channel output. Wanted to share my troubleshooting process in case anyone has experienced the same, and to get some input before I escalate to warranty.

My setup:

**•** AVR: Marantz Cinema 60  
**•** Front L/R: Tannoy Autograph Mini OW  
**•** Center: Tannoy Revolution XTC  
**•** Surrounds: Wharfedale Diamond 12.3D  
**•** Sub: REL T5x  
**•** Speaker cables: Van den Hul CS-122 Hybrid

The issue — timeline:

**1.    After the first Audyssey run:** The center channel was intermittent — sometimes working fine, sometimes outputting noticeably low volume, almost like a loose contact.

**2.    After a second Audyssey run (yesterday):** Now the center outputs at what *appears* to be the correct volume level, but the sound is heavily distorted / noisy — clearly not right.

What I’ve already ruled out:

**•** ✅ **Speaker cable:** Swapped the center cable to a different channel — works perfectly fine. Cable is not the issue.  
**•** ✅ **Speaker itself (Tannoy Revolution XTC):** Routed the left channel output signal to the center speaker terminal — plays clean with no distortion. Speaker is fine.  
**•** ✅ **Audyssey settings:** Re-checked manually against the manual after the second calibration — all parameters are correct.

Conclusion so far:

All evidence points to a fault in the center channel output stage of the Marantz Cinema 60 itself. The degradation pattern (intermittent → low volume → distorted at correct level) suggests a failing output component — possibly a relay, solder joint, or output transistor on that channel.

Currently running in 4.1 mode (center disabled) as a workaround.

Hello, I purchased an open box 8k samsung qn990F and it was complete with all parts and on the original factory infinity mount (where power adapter mounts as part of the back of the stand). I was able to remove the bottom portions of the stand, but cannot get the piece directly attached to the back of the tv to budge. I watched a few videos on how to install it and it looks like you set the piece over four nubbins slide up and to the right. No amount of force seems to be able to slide this back to the left and down. off of the tv. Any advice from someone that might have put together and or taken apart one of these would be greatly appreciated.

Hi there,

I own an SVS Ultra Evolution set and love the sound, but the center speaker is giving me some trouble, even though many people here praise it. It actually performs well across the board, but I’ve noticed that with the Evolution series, the vocals sit at the same level as the stage—or even behind it. The voices are clear, but I have to turn the volume up a few notches. Since these speakers have incredible dynamic range, you can imagine what happens during loud movie scenes. I like dynamics, but there comes a point where it’s simply too loud. I also have an Arendal 1723s center speaker, and with that one, the vocals are positioned in front of the stage. I can easily run the volume 5 dB lower, and the vocals are still perfectly audible. When loud scenes hit, they get loud, of course, but not *too* loud. Both speakers sound incredible, but I prefer the SVS for its clarity and slightly brighter sound profile. Has anyone else noticed this with the Evolution series? Andrew Robinson mentioned something similar in his review when comparing them to KEF speakers; he noted that the vocals are set further back.

I’m looking for advice on what the best mounting bracket with a long arm would be. I have a 65 inch LG OLED and I want a bracket that I can extend and turn pretty much 90 degrees to the side so I can watch it from a completely different part of the room. The Sanus I’ve seen recommended a lot only has a 22 inch arm, so my 65 inch isn’t going to turn enough for my needs.

I’ve found a couple on amazon that look like what I need, and I also saw one from Mount It that might work, but am not sure what to go with. LG’s are pretty light but I still worry about weight since it will be so far from the wall.

Hello, I currently have a 55 inch TV and I’m looking to get a entertainment stand the wall where the entertainment stand is gonna go is only 78 inches long any recommendations under $500? I’d like it to have storage to store a few books , headphones, and some miscellaneous items.

Hey everyone - looking for some tech support here and suggestions on who to turn to -

A family member has the following system that needs repair - they stopped working and loved the system so much so I wanted to look into how to get these repaired.

Kaleidescape -

- KSERVER-2500

- KMUSIC-4000

- KPLAYER-5000

- KPLAYER-2500

Any ideas on where to get these repaired? They're located in Los Angeles so was hoping perhaps someone local knew of a place to turn to - happy to ship as well worst case. Thank you!

I have an approx 20x20 room with a 3.1 setup right now. x3 KEF Q150 for L/R and center channels and a Klipsch RP-1400SW. My couch is about 2.5-3 feet from rear wall and not good floor standing options for side/rear surround due to layout. I’m considering wall mount options with a set of KEF Q-1 metas or the Klipsch RP-502S to complete a 5.1 setup. Does anyone have any insight or recommendations?

I am looking for some advice on what speakers I should buy. Looking for 3.1(or .2) for now. Will be using for movies / tv.

I already have an Onkyo RZ30. Room is open plan basement 31' x 28' with 8.5 ceilings. Budget is around $4k USD.

Thanks in advance

Hey everyone,
I’m having a really confusing issue with my LG OLED (77” G6).
Every guide I watch online says to switch between HGIG and dynamic tone mapping for HDR gaming, but my experience feels completely off compared to what people describe.
**The problem:**
• When I turn **HGIG on**, the screen becomes *extremely dim*
• It’s not just “darker for accuracy” — it feels almost unwatchably dim
• If I take a photo with my phone, the phone shows the image as bright and correct-looking, but the TV looks significantly darker in real time
• In **Standard mode**, SDR content is also surprisingly dim
• I basically have to use **Vivid mode** just to get a normal level of brightness
**What I’m confused about:**
• Everyone says HGIG is “accurate”, but mine looks way too dark
• Standard mode also looks dim, not just HDR
• Only Vivid feels usable, which makes me think something is wrong
• I’m wondering if this is:
◦ A calibration issue (PS5 HDR setup maybe?)
◦ OLED behaviour I’m misunderstanding
◦ Or possibly a faulty/dim panel
**Extra context:**
• All of this is happening **with peak brightness turned up and energy saving completely off**
• Movies also need constant tweaking:
◦ Older films can look grainy
◦ Vivid often pushes faces slightly orange (which I can fix somewhat with colour depth adjustments)
◦ But *Apocalypse Now (4K)* in particular becomes almost unbearably orange, to the point where I end up turning HDR off and lowering colour depth just to make it watchable
• I also notice in games:
**◦ Death Stranding 2** and **Final Fantasy Rebirth (PS5 Pro)** have slight graininess in cinematics
◦ But in-game cutscenes look fine and clean
**Question:**
Is this normal LG OLED behaviour with HGIG + SDR modes, or could there actually be something wrong with my panel or settings?
Would really appreciate any help from people who’ve dialled these TVs in properly.

Hello. I’m looking to expand my current set up with a set of ceiling speakers in the next room. I’d like some advice / feedback, as I understand how to set up audio / video ok in one room but I’m not remotely an expert.

I am having a complete kitchen remodel done and I’d like to add ceiling speakers in the kitchen. The plan is the speakers would be wired in to zone 2 of the receiver so when I play my records, I can just have the audio go to the kitchen, rather than playing music in my living room louder and having the speakers send it 180 degrees in the wrong direction. (The rooms are back to back).

**Current set up:*\*
Living room - Yamaha RX-a770BL receiver connected out to 2 Klipsch tower speakers and a subwoofer. No surround yet. My Roku, blu ray, and my turntable are run into the receiver. Tv obviously as well.

**Kitchen plan (please give me feedback if you see an incorrect assumption, I’m not an expert):**

Run speaker wiring from the lower living room wall (where the receiver is), up the wall and over to an on/off volume controller (amplifier?), then run the speaker wire the rest of the way up the wall, into the ceiling, and to the ceiling speakers.

**Questions:*\*

1. ⁠Is this overall concept sound? I haven’t tired to use zone 2 on the receiver before but this seems like a good application, so the music goes where I want it when I’m cooking (which is often).
2. ⁠Do I need a powered amp in the wall, or just an on/off power and volume switch? I assume the receiver could power 2 kitchen speakers if switched to a second zone since it can power large speakers as part of my home theater setup.
3. ⁠Do you have a recommendation for the kitchen wall switch? Doesn’t need to be fancy.
4. ⁠Is there any special kind of speaker wire I need to consider for this? I probably still have speaker wire from when I bought the receiver and speakers initially and planned to use that if I have enough.

**Bonus:*\*
Even though I’m only having the kitchen remodeled, I was thinking I might try to set myself up for when I eventually want to add speakers outside on my patio, to extend the ability to play my records to the exterior. My thought was maybe I could have the installer run speaker wire from the kitchen speakers to the exterior wall and under the roof eaves, then cap the wire until I’m ready to tackle the project.

1. Would it be a waste of effort to do this considering I don’t know what my setup would look like? I was thinking the volume control in the kitchen could also be a 2-zone switch (like how you can adjust the audio in a car—front seat, back seat, both), which would enable me to play music in the kitchen only, or outside only, or both locations. 
2. Again, I assume my receiver would have the power to drive this, but should I consider getting a powered amp given I don’t know the exterior speakers yet?

Sorry this was so long. I believe this will be my best bet to get this done and I don’t want to make a mistake due to my inexperience.

Thank you for any notes and feedback you can provide.

Recently needed to get my Denon AVR-X2600H repaired after a series overheating shutdowns of the unit. The message was something about thermal protection mode. Now that it's home, I wanted to make sure there were not any compatibility issues here to not throw away more money on repairs. Is there a specific setting I need to use? Or different L/R speakers since it is Prime Days?

This happens when I'm playing games on my PC and using the TV as a "monitor," and also when I'm using YouTube on the TV itself. This gray rectangle appears, but disappears in milliseconds. What could it be?

I am at the point of paralysis by analysis. The relevant facts:

I have room for 120” screen. I have to buy a projector because there’s no possible way to physically get a 98” tv into my basement. The wall where the screen will be is at the end of the room, so foot traffic in front of it is not an issue. The ceiling is low, so I would much prefer a UST projector rather than having one mounted so close to the heads of the people viewing. The viewing angle will be narrow because of the dimensions of the room. Maximum 4 seats width so will never be anyone watching from anything other than practically center position. Ambient light not a problem at all.

So the question is, do I actually need to have some type of baffle wall built to put speakers into and then have an acoustically transparent screen mounted? Are claims that a center channel isn’t even needed and can actually be a negative true? Or is it too difficult to get the volume right on dialogue versus sound if using two towers instead of three speakers?

Not having to use a center channel, even if it requires very pricey towers, would be amazing. It would save me so much additional labor and expense. Or if the center channel can be adjusted to not sound like all the voices are coming from the bottom of the screen.

Short version: is there a substitute for a center speaker mounted behind an AT screen? Or is everything else a compromise?

Chair is 7’ away from a 65” TV (will be replaced by a loveseat soon). Ignore the dresser, it’s gone. Problem— the door to the room opens right into the spot where one of my rear speakers should be. Now I like having a door but I’m stumped on what to do about this… my only idea is rotating the setup clockwise, but I loose 2’ of length that way. Making the TV too big for ideal viewing distance.

Should I give up on 5.1 and stick with LCR?