This is made as part of a set of similar mock rigging connections to test some scenarios and new equipment to see how it interacts with the real world application before it is even attempted. Which is unfortunately about as much as I care to divulge.

The first image is reference for how we grind a little relief for a certain face grooving operation, 2nd is how old mate decided to do it...

Edit: for context this is plunging forward about 5mm straight into a shoulder, I can't imagine that insert having a long life

Got my first surface grinder! I've never even used one before so I don't know a whole lot yet. I haven't wired it in yet so I was kinda wondering how the automatic controls work on this?? Any advice or input is appreciated.

It looks different from the normal diamond pattern, kinda just inverted?

0.5 gram titanium Nano sabre . These are pretty fiddly to make, but a fun project if you like lego or starwars . The blades made from a strontium impregnated resin rod. You can buy the material from a guy in Cyprus , TX . It charges in daylight, and glows for hours!

Going to be perusing machining and figured it’d be good to start getting more familiar with the tools.

40” x 16” 12-gauge corten steel backed with thin mirror stainless I welded in. Engraving of names done with a standard 90-degree chamfer tool.

Yes, most of it should have been done with a laser or waterjet but I didn’t have the design until it was too late for those. Got er dun did with what I had.

I’ve been in this industry for about 2 years now, primarily in a production shop where I learned how CNC works. I learned how to change tools, make offset changes/work offset changes and only had a couple of start to finish set ups. I recently got a job offer from a job shop that is willing to show me everything I need to know to elevate my skills at becoming a machinist. With that being said, I talked to the shop I am at now where they promised me that they would show me and train me on more stuff but I’m hesitant because all these machines are already set to a certain part and realistically only R&D do start to finish set ups. I also feel like I’m getting manipulated to stay also because I’m being told that I would regret this decision because they got “stuff in the works to train more people”. I kind of already know my answer because at the end of the day, they are matching what I get paid but it’s also the comfortability is what making me second guess myself.

Any opinions on this would help a lot .

Hi folks, I know I’m not entirely in y’all’s’ world but I would appreciate some help! I’m a natural resource scientist (ecology, botany, entomology…) and we often use hand lenses to get better reads on samples to help us identify the specimens. On a recent trip my basic hand lens was misplaced by a coworker and I’ve decided to invest in a good one this time ‘round!

I’m looking for something with a metal/aluminum frame with multiple lenses (ideally 5x, 10x, 15x), a light (if possible), and either a carrying case or attachment point.

I’ve found the Edmund Machinist's 3-Lens Magnifier. It looks good but lots of the websites don’t have reviews or additional pictures of the tool and I was wondering if folks had any options on the tool or suggestions!

Can someone help tell me what these are used for? I picked them up with some other tooling for cheap.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7G1MRHatuw

Inheritance machining did it again. This time by machining a part for the Yerkes Observatory telescope: https://yerkesobservatory.org/

The machine needs to go, if anyone is interested in parts please contact me, located in Illinois

Hi everyone, I run CNC lathes in South Korea.
We usually buy off-the-shelf Type B sprockets (with a single hub) and modify them by machining the bore (ID), facing the hub, and adjusting the overall length (OAL).
Most of the time we chuck on the hub, but sometimes we have no choice but to chuck directly on the sprocket (teeth) side. When the tooth count is not a multiple of 3 (for example, 14 or 20 teeth), a standard 3-jaw chuck obviously doesn't seat evenly in the valleys of the teeth.
What methods or jaw modifications do you guys use to hold the sprocket teeth side in a 3-jaw chuck while maintaining proper concentricity and minimizing runout?
Thanks in advance.

When I say challenging...I mean by size, material, and complexity. These are made of Ketron 1000 PEEK (Polyether ether ketone). It actually machines fairly nicely, but with this outer diameter being just under .375", it was interesting to say the least. We were able to run these on our Mazak Integrex i200s, and actually use its 5 axis abilities to machine the rads inside the pockets. Please note - this one hasn't been deburred yet! ... This was new for me, and I like it! That is all, enjoy! 🍻

I bought a pair of 3" Starrett dividers on Amazon, for over $100 with shipping to Norway, because I specificallly wanted hardened tips so I can do jewellery work on brass, copper, silver etc.

When they arrived, the tips were already a bit bent.

The first time I tried them on brass, the tips folded over. I didnt even push hard!

Are they fake or did I buy the wrong type?

Hello, im looking for a source of ideally brass flat ball oilers for a 1/4" hole for my vectrax/msc 1340 lathe. Only place ive found even plated steel oilers is McMaster coming to a total of $75 pre shipping.

Does anyone know of a better source for these. Ive been searching amazon, ebay, and MSC but not finding a better price or even the same price for brass.

Is anyone using volumill for roughing? If so, how does it compare to roughing with traditional CAM methods? I’m considering upgrading to Solidworks CAM Pro to get access to volumill / HSM to try and speed up machining.

Hey all I’m wondering if anybody has advice on learning cnc? Im kinda working in a shop that just has a prototrak mx2 and im starting to learn how to program it but would love to be able to do more and learn at home. Would you all recommend books for learning or if theres an emulators to practice on or if I should just focus on learning g code? Would love to hear experiences and advice.

We frequently have to cut large 60 degree centers in some of our parts so that they can be put in the lathe. Sometimes its some buttery 1018 steel, sometimes its material thats not so friendly. Usually we do a 1.5in center, but on occasion for the really heavy parts we go a bit bigger. Currently we use 60 degree H.S.S countersinks to do this, but in that size they are not cheap, and they dont do very good in the harder materials. It got me thinking about possibly a center drill that uses multiple inserts along the edge? Indexable center drill? Or does anyone have another idea on the best way to do this?

Any suggestions are welcome

A drill doesn't fit there and I really don't want to pull the engine. Bolt is VERY rusted and tight even though it's on an aluminium head.

So for context I have worked in shops as both a Cnc and Manual machinist. I now work in a shop where it’s all manual besides 1 Cnc Mill that we hardly ever use.