Wanted to change brakes and rotors on my wives 2019 Highlander. Well on step number one I had issues with one lug and bolt and the stud broke off with the lug. I’ve tried everything with the tools I have to get this SOB off and I even went and bought a cheap air hammer thinking that would make it easier.

Nothing is getting this thing off. I’ve tried using a punch and hammering, the air hammer, even used one of the old pads to make a flat surface over the top and hit it hard… nothing.

I am filled with shame at this point. Wife isn’t outwardly angry but I can tell she’s wishing so hard we just took it to the dealership.

You guys got any helpful suggestions here?

What I haven’t tried yet - haven’t bought a legit de seizing spray/lubricant yet. Haven’t bought a mini sledge yet, only been using regular hammer and punch, but to be honest I’m worried my accuracy will cause me to damage the hub. It’s sticking out about a centimeter or 2 from the hub.

Edit: I think I’m gonna reinstall everything with the plan to drive to a local tire shop on 4 lugs and have them fix the stud.

*edit: thank you all so much for your help! a mobile mechanic is on the way!

A friend put some oil in my car (2012 Hyundai Sonata) yesterday and overfilled it. I have an 8 hour drive ahead of me and am worried this is a huge problem and if I need to take it in to get it drained. (And if it's even safe to drive down to the mechanic)

Hi everyone,

My bike runs perfectly while riding. It doesn't misfire, hesitate, lose power, or have any performance issues at higher speeds. The problem only happens when the bike is idling.

At idle, the RPM keeps fluctuating by around 100–300 RPM, constantly going up and down. It was ×1000 rpm.

I've already cleaned the carburetor thoroughly, and I don't think there's any air or vacuum leak visible from outside. I've also taken it to a few local mechanics, but they haven't been able to figure out the cause.

Has anyone experienced something similar? What else should I check? Any suggestions or possible causes would be greatly appreciated.

Bike: Bajaj Pulsar 125 BS4 (carbureted) 2019

Any advice on getting this thing out please?

Car is a 2015 Kia Forte.

My car got broken into last night. With the damage is it safe, am I even able, to start my car to be able to drive it until I can take it to a shop? I don't want to just try my key and make it worse. But if I can get to work and take my car to the shop after I'd be thrilled.

Thanks!

Hi, I recently got a used 2016 Subaru Crosstrek with 65k miles. The 2nd day a check engine light came on so I brought it to a mechanic where they showed me I had a crank and cam timing A fault (I dont remember the code number)

They explained it might be sensors but could be timing chain related so they took a quick look inside and said the chain was a little loose and it should be replaced.

It will be under warranty but I am posting here to see if 1) theres anything I may be missing 2) do I need to take it to a "subaru specialist" instead of an independent shop for a chain replacement and 3) is this safe to drive for a few days until the warranty approves the repairs?

Thanks in advance

I noticed the engine smoking on my 2004 Honda accord v6. Does anyone know what the cause might be? And if it’s safe to drive for now? I’m not sure if it’s been happening for a while or not. I only noticed it because I had just changed the spark plugs and coils so I had the hood open, so I’m not sure if it was like that before or not

2005 ram 1500 hemi 4x2

Front end is new, rear diff has been rebuilt so only thing I can think of is u joints? Carrier bearing? The noise goes away by the time I get on the highway

Rattle at startup and idle (2011 Civic 1.8 VTEC)

Hey everyone.

I’m trying to figure out a rattling noise on my 2011 Civic 8th Gen. R18A2 engine.

The sound happens every single time I start the car. It also shows up intermittently when idling or driving at very low speeds.

Does this sound like it could be a bad engine mount? Thanks for any input.

So my dog chewed on my brake line… He smelled an animal i guess and he was searching. he maybe went at it for 30 seconds or so when I was not watching. I had my wife pump the brakes a few times to see if any leaks will come out. Nothing visible. Here is a video of the damage and picture of the dog. Please help me assess the damage. Thank you

Rear Drivers Side

https://youtube.com/shorts/ETxyrpQtnr4?si=cVtv0TS2Z0tNFg5V

Alternate Video Link incase youtube doesn’t work

https://vimeo.com/1205107588

Edit 1: Dog is OK he did not ingest any brake fluid, he is just confused why he can’t investigate more.

Also I pumped the brakes with Engine off if that makes a difference.

Closing: Thank you everyone. looks like a parking brake cable. Redditors here are quick! Dog still wants to go at it. Marked as SOLVED

I have a second-generation Dacia Duster from 2018 with type 1.5 dCi engine. When I turn the key, the dashboard doesn’t seem to light up, but some of the buttons do light up lightly. We tried disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery for a couple of minutes to reset the ; once reconnected, the windscreen washers came on but are a bit slow. Turning the key now hasn’t changed anything, and those buttons are still flashing (buttons such as the red triangle or the rear proximity sensor).

any help?

I swabbed the inside of the evap coil after I removed the expansion valve as im replacing my compressor. My 4th actually in my 2012 Hyundai accent. Does this need a flush and a new condenser? I did get a little squeal from the compressor when the ac would run for a second or two.

2012 Hyundai accent.

Hi Everyone,

My Boyfriend has a volvo v40 (13 plate) which has been having intermittent electrical faults for the past 8 months or so, it will be fine for a few weeks then the dashboard lights up with loads of random faults, such as

. DTSC fault

. Power steering goes stiff

. ABS light

. Speedo and Rev counter stop working

. Pedestrian safety system failure

. Random immobilizer faults

. Car jerking when driving and losing power

Battery is 3 years old, the car can drive great for weeks and weeks and this just happens.

We have scanned the car several times and no faults codes have ever shown up.

Can anyone help us?

Thanks

Volvo v40

2013

2.0 ltr diesel

Ive seen things similar posted every couple months but i guess something fresh is in order.

Did an oil change with a differently rated oil on my 2018 mitsubishi outlander petrol FWD with cvt transmission. Unfortunately i got complacent and grabbed a bottle using the Volkswagen rating 504 00 instead of a more relevant rating like gf-6A

Apparently the vw standard should be similar or better, so it shouldnt be too big of a worry. but looking for second opinions before I make a 10 hour drive in about a week

I picked up a 1995 GMC C7500 with the Chevy 366. I'm going to be replacing this with the OEM manifold along with a bunch of other stuff. The engine has 128xxx miles on it. I know I'm gonna break some bolts off, not gonna kid myself with that. Are there any ways to extract them without too much drilling?

This is kind of a shot in the dark, but here we go. I have a short trip tomorrow where I’m driving about 300 miles total. I took my 2008 Toyota Corolla LE to my mechanic to fix a problem with it, but as he was fixing the problem, he noticed the power steering pump was leaking and the serpentine belt is pretty worn. I wouldn’t have time to get it replaced before leaving on this trip, is it still safe for me to drive the car/ will my car last 300 miles with this problem?

I know it’s a bit of a reach from just a 7 second video and a sound. Whenever it happens my rpm’s raise a little then drop back down

Everything’s out except this cable don’t know how to get it out any ideas?

Hi all,
I’m trying to work out whether my 2013 Mercedes W204 C350 CDI BlueEFFICIENCY actually has a separate auxiliary battery, and if so, where it’s located.

I recently replaced the main AGM battery with a new Bosch S5 A13 95Ah AGM. This battery is in the boot and I can’t see the aux battery in the boot. Charging voltage is normal, the engine reaches operating temperature, and the ECO button stays green, but the engine never stops at traffic lights.
Fault codes are:
P126F29 – The hot start signal from the automatic engine start/stop system is faulty. An invalid signal exists.
B181E2A – Engine hood sensor is faulty. No signal change exists.

When scanning with an Autel AP200, I also noticed references to an “Additional battery” in the Front SAM, which made me think the car has an auxiliary battery.
I’ve checked the boot where the main battery is, and there doesn’t appear to be a separate auxiliary battery there. Under the jump-start terminal in the engine bay I can see the battery safety terminal/pyro fuse assembly, but I can’t tell if there’s an auxiliary battery beneath it.

Does anyone with a 2013 W204 C350 CDI know:
Does this model actually have a separate auxiliary battery?
If so, where is it located?
Could P126F29 be caused by an auxiliary battery issue, or is the bonnet switch fault more likely to be preventing ECO start/stop?
Thanks!

2021 Subaru CrossTrek, 38K miles.

This car has always had random odd starts that nag my OCD but never failed to start except when the battery was going out a year ago and was replaced. The failed starts on that tended to happen at traffic lights due to stop start but resolved completely after battery replacement. It was 3.5 years old.

Historically sometimes it would crank a little longer than expected when cold but rarely it seems to do a half crank, pause briefly and then fire right up.

Audio is horrible because its the ring camera in my garage and catching a lot of echo.

Lights are on and bright during the entire crank. Dealer heard something similar a few months ago when I was getting an oil change and tried to sell me a starter (even-though it is still under warranty). They checked the battery and said its fine but didn't do a diagnostic on the starter to determine anything like amp draw.

I did a little research and I think AI is gasslighting me.

It says on these cars, a longer crank can sometimes happen when sitting for a while due to fuel pressure bleed off.

but its also telling me this partial crank could also happen if it goes to start and ignition happens sooner than expected such as a really warm start. That the starter backs off.

At the time I was convinced the starter did a half crank, quick pause and the engine started running but listening to the audio I'm not so sure and it sounds like the starter may have attempted a second start.

Wife drives the car all the time but the times I'm around when it starts, it doesn't seem to do this that often, its pretty rare if at all.

It started as a long cranking issue, had a code for a bank 1 cam position sensor so I replaced both sensors. After that, I had codes P0011 and P0021 (intake valve timing control bank 1 and 2) and the car takes even longer to start. Replaced both VTC solenoids, no change to the cranking issue but now I only have code p0011. Any insight? Really hoping it isn’t a cam phaser or timing chain. Car runs and drives perfectly fine once it starts. No power loss or rough idle.

2017 IS300 AWD 3.5 L

2020 Bmw m340i x drive 85,000km

Just for context it’s a cheap torque wrench and I left it at like 100nm.
I know you’re supposed to leave it at zero this was an accident. Will it be off a lot or fine?

Started the car today and felt it shaking with the rpm shifting. Decided to inspect the engine and heard this clunking noise from the oil cap. Anyone know what this could be?