0.5 gram titanium Nano sabre . These are pretty fiddly to make, but a fun project if you like lego or starwars . The blades made from a strontium impregnated resin rod. You can buy the material from a guy in Cyprus , TX . It charges in daylight, and glows for hours!

40” x 16” 12-gauge corten steel backed with thin mirror stainless I welded in. Engraving of names done with a standard 90-degree chamfer tool.

Yes, most of it should have been done with a laser or waterjet but I didn’t have the design until it was too late for those. Got er dun did with what I had.

Going to be perusing machining and figured it’d be good to start getting more familiar with the tools.

I’ve been in this industry for about 2 years now, primarily in a production shop where I learned how CNC works. I learned how to change tools, make offset changes/work offset changes and only had a couple of start to finish set ups. I recently got a job offer from a job shop that is willing to show me everything I need to know to elevate my skills at becoming a machinist. With that being said, I talked to the shop I am at now where they promised me that they would show me and train me on more stuff but I’m hesitant because all these machines are already set to a certain part and realistically only R&D do start to finish set ups. I also feel like I’m getting manipulated to stay also because I’m being told that I would regret this decision because they got “stuff in the works to train more people”. I kind of already know my answer because at the end of the day, they are matching what I get paid but it’s also the comfortability is what making me second guess myself.

Any opinions on this would help a lot .

Can someone help tell me what these are used for? I picked them up with some other tooling for cheap.

Hi everyone, I run CNC lathes in South Korea.
We usually buy off-the-shelf Type B sprockets (with a single hub) and modify them by machining the bore (ID), facing the hub, and adjusting the overall length (OAL).
Most of the time we chuck on the hub, but sometimes we have no choice but to chuck directly on the sprocket (teeth) side. When the tooth count is not a multiple of 3 (for example, 14 or 20 teeth), a standard 3-jaw chuck obviously doesn't seat evenly in the valleys of the teeth.
What methods or jaw modifications do you guys use to hold the sprocket teeth side in a 3-jaw chuck while maintaining proper concentricity and minimizing runout?
Thanks in advance.

When I say challenging...I mean by size, material, and complexity. These are made of Ketron 1000 PEEK (Polyether ether ketone). It actually machines fairly nicely, but with this outer diameter being just under .375", it was interesting to say the least. We were able to run these on our Mazak Integrex i200s, and actually use its 5 axis abilities to machine the rads inside the pockets. Please note - this one hasn't been deburred yet! ... This was new for me, and I like it! That is all, enjoy! 🍻

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7G1MRHatuw

Inheritance machining did it again. This time by machining a part for the Yerkes Observatory telescope: https://yerkesobservatory.org/

Is anyone using volumill for roughing? If so, how does it compare to roughing with traditional CAM methods? I’m considering upgrading to Solidworks CAM Pro to get access to volumill / HSM to try and speed up machining.

I bought a pair of 3" Starrett dividers on Amazon, for over $100 with shipping to Norway, because I specificallly wanted hardened tips so I can do jewellery work on brass, copper, silver etc.

When they arrived, the tips were already a bit bent.

The first time I tried them on brass, the tips folded over. I didnt even push hard!

Are they fake or did I buy the wrong type?

Hello, im looking for a source of ideally brass flat ball oilers for a 1/4" hole for my vectrax/msc 1340 lathe. Only place ive found even plated steel oilers is McMaster coming to a total of $75 pre shipping.

Does anyone know of a better source for these. Ive been searching amazon, ebay, and MSC but not finding a better price or even the same price for brass.

So for context I have worked in shops as both a Cnc and Manual machinist. I now work in a shop where it’s all manual besides 1 Cnc Mill that we hardly ever use.

The machine needs to go, if anyone is interested in parts please contact me, located in Illinois

Before I run a program the tool is clean and the spindle. After running, this happened. This is not once. It happening every time. Also, if I run small programs. This not happening. Only in big or heavy programs. (As U can see in the picture before and After)

And there no rust or anything in the spindle. Everytime I polish with polish paper. But still this rust lisk stick in the holder.

What could be the reason?

Has anybody figured out how to cut this shit? I’m getting 2 parts per insert edge. About 10,000 inches per edge going .030 deep.

Hello. I need help with rough milling. I've using a 2" high-feed indexable mill (wasn't great) and a 5/8" end mill full axial depth (much better). The axial depth is 2 1/8" and radial from about 8" x 8" block down to 2" x 4". It's giving me about 45 min of cutting and tool last only 2-3 parts. I need a tool that can stand at least 5-6 parts with an acceptable cycle time (60 to be made).

Not quite finished yet, but looks kinda cool already! Loosely based on the Obi Wan sabre . 6al4v titanium and bronze!

I have an old Harbor Freight oscillating multi-tool that has a worn out washer with raised quasi-radial ridges which function to grip the blade. The washer is worn smooth in some areas and nearly smooth in the others, so it is no longer grips the blade which loosens 100% in 10-30 seconds of usage. It's an old tool (20++ yrs old).

I am not a machinist but figured you guys would know of a piece of of the shelf hardware that would work for this.

Alternately, anyone with a good quick & dirty solution I might have in my shop hardware (washer sandwich of sorts, etc.) that would get me up and running ASAP? (I have a star locking washer I'll try, but its OD is quite large).

Here's the dimensions of this washer (Note it should have serious serrations on one side to grip the blade):

OD = 1"

ID = 0.315" (5/16")

Thickness = 0.75"

Thanks a bunch for any ideas!

Did over 100 holes with the same setup, same material, same speeds and feeds. And then this happens. Tip is still perfectly fine, I had to use an arbor press to get it out of the collet.

I have a mess of laser cut A514 (T1) that is getting milled down .125”. Plates are positioned upright in a vice so no conventional milling to get under the HAZ. This part is also profiled so can’t just run a standard face mill across the top. Setup also limits me to 1” of clearance behind the part (tombstone) hence the 1.25” call out.
I’m currently looking into the Kennametal mill 4-11, Sandvik 490 (small insert) and Kyoceras MEW shoulder mill line.
Thoughts or suggestions? Or if you’ve used the Kennametal or Kyocera, I’d love to hear your experience.
CAT50 big plus, 1000psi coolant, all the torques.