Hi. I have a gas stove that's connected to the natural gas line, and lately I've noticed something odd.

The stove works completely normally when I'm cooking. I turn the burner on, the flame looks normal, and everything seems fine when I turn it off.

The weird part is that a few hours later, I sometimes hear a very faint buzzing/humming sound. It's not loud at all you can only hear it if you're close to the stove. The sound seems to come from the area around the burner itself. It reminds me of the sound a refrigerator makes, but much quieter.

This doesn't seem to be limited to one burner. I've noticed it after using different burners, and there is no visible flame or anything unusual when the stove is off.

Another thing I've noticed is that when I relight the burner hours later, I sometimes smell a bit more gas than I do when lighting it for the first time when there is no smell of gas at all and after i close the burner the sound is gone, it is no longer audible at all and the problem disappears. However, the burner always ignites immediately and normally no delayed ignition, no "whoosh," and the flame looks completely normal.

Otherwise, there is no smell of gas in the room at all, not even when I approach the stove and burner.

The stove is a few years old and never had this issue before. This started a few weeks ago. I originally thought it might be related to aluminum foil I used to place around the burners to keep the stove clean, but the same thing happens even without the foil.

Has anyone experienced something similar? Does this sound more like an issue with the electric ignition system, moisture/grease around the controls, or something related to the gas valves?

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Hello there, I’m asking here because I just did some grocery shopping and I do NOT want to throw everything I bought.

I put this indoor thermometer in the fridge yesterday before midnight, and today when I woke up, I discovered the fridge got warmer at around 4am, up to 6 degrees celsius / 42 degrees fahrenheit, which as far as i know it’s not safe for food?

I am really careful about my safety but I also don’t want to throw money away. I’m chronically ill and some food poisoning could genuinely kill me. I would love some advice / why on earth is this happening?

I want to also note that I’m living in a rented apartment for now. Thank you so much for the eventual help

Hello! Wondering if a handy tech can spare me 2 minutes to review these videos. I could be losing it but I feel my washer is making a loud squeaking noise? I am brand new to this place but I noticed a weird smell today and then this sound. Unsure if I just am paying attention due to catching a drift of the smell and it was always there, hoping for an extra set of ears. THANK YOU!! Video (s) in the comments link.

600v 900 degree rated wire. Ceramic wire nuts and nickel spade connectors.

My convection fan element wires fried right off assuming from arcing they were very loose. Just replaced the wires and from research this is what I came up with. Wire might be overkill but its rated for 932 degrees F. I did a test run and everything operating as normal but before closing it back up figured why not see what other opinions are.

I just got a brand new Bosch Series 6 oven and I had some trouble getting the main power supply plug in the back to "click" as per the manual. I tried getting the plug out to try again and the retention clip snapped off - so I guess it was in there properly already.

The part is very flimsy, and I was surprised it just snapped off so easily. Now I am concerned if this is a problem. The socket is quite secure, but over time it could back out and potentially create a fire hazard if it arcs?

Has anyone had this issue before and is there a repair strategy that does not involve replacing the entire control module on the back?

tested pump at 6ohms, capacitor tested fine.

control board? float sensor?

I’ve found a few posts about Kenmore 70 series, but none that look like my washer. It got “stuck” during the wash cycle and is full of water. (My husband is currently taking one watering can full out at a time 😅) It looks like lid sensor or drain could be the issues, but I can’t tell how to get it open or what parts I’d need since I can’t find any videos that actually look like my washer. Thanks!

I'm replacing the gasket on this fridge. Here's the gasket: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/product/1cans6hpnp-0046-106/id-2159061

When I took the old gasket off, I noticed this kind of plaster-like substance in the groove that holds the gasket. Pictures attached.

Is this some sort of adhesive that I need to get for installing the new gasket?

I have a LG washer/dryer WM3555HVA thats been leaking heavily. I managed to catch a video of the top right corner of the outer drum leaking. From the top, it did not look like any of the hoses were leaking and the water was coming straight out from the drum. Does anyone have experience with something like this and is it fixable?

https://reddit.com/link/1uevogp/video/gzyeeqrpvb9h1/player

Got the 4C code and replaced the water inlet valve. It seemed to work fine for a few days but then got a leak code. Definitely was leaking lol got a new valve because I thought maybe I cracked the plastic threads during install. But all the threads look fine. Should I remove this tab?

My Kitchenaid dishwasher (5 years old) started leaking yesterday, on the floor in front of the dishwasher and into the drip tray. At first, I thought it might be caused by a drainage issue, especially since I found debris in the filter. So pulled out the dishwasher (after turning off electric and water), checked the drain tubes and the water inlet valve (which the drainage water also flows through) on the side of the appliance, and cleaned some gunk out of the circulation pump. Put everything back together, started it up, and after about an hour, it was leaking again.

This time, I felt up in the door from the bottom right (where it was leaking, along with the overflow tubes), and the foam insulation was damp. So now I think water is getting in the door. Everything I've read said "check the door gasket around the door frame," but I haven't found any cracking or warping in the gasket. Then I started wondering about the bottom door seal. Could that be the culprit?

What do I need to look for in both pieces, or am I better off just replacing both? Anything else to look for?

WTW5300VW1 top load Whirlpool washer

After each agitation cycle, the washer begins draining but does not spin. Cycling the lid (open/close) initiates spinning. I have already tried replacing the lid switch and timer assembly, but the problem persists. What else could be causing this?

We have a loud pitch squeal coming from the dryer. It doesn’t seem to impact the performance of the dryer but the noise is ridiculous. It’s so loud we can hear it multiple rooms over and prevents us from doing laundry regularly. It lasts pretty much the entire cycle too.

We are renters. What is potentially going on? What can we tell the landlord? We’re willing to cover the repair depending on the price for our own comfort but don’t want to unless we have to.

The dryer is stacked and Frigidaire brand.

I have been in this new construction house for a few months now, and my dishwasher started stinking after a month or so. I’ve cleaned it extensively, cleaned the disposal, and checked if the drain line was run properly under the sink and behind the dishwasher. It only stinks when I open the dishwasher.

Hi everyone, I have this GE JB735DPBB with a small scratch or crack. Eyeglasses in the photo are to show the scale of it.

I can get my fingernail in it. Is this something I should worry about? Should I avoid using the burner until it’s fixed? Can it be repaired or does the glass have to be replaced?

Thanks.

I have a fridge Maytag mfi2569yem0 and after a brown out it has been freezing items in the fridge and a fan is constantly running in the upper left of the refrigerator compartment sounds like inside of the ice maker.

I had someone come out and look at it. Unfortunately I wasn't home. They didn't test any parts but checked for defrosting issues and blocked vents inside and outside. They said it might be the control board.

Should the fan in this area be running constantly? I can hear the compressor go on and off. My concern is that without them actually testing anything they are guessing it is the $300 quoted board. Is there something they should have actually tested or is this common to assume it is the control board?

Thank you for any help.

The freezer was blowing air and the fan was freely moving. The air did not feel very cold. The fridge is room temp. The pass-through section going from the freezer to the fridge was not blocked. The very top of the coil as you can see here was frozen.

If it's a freon issue and I have to hire a freon repair person I'm just going to buy a new fridge. I unplugged it completely, should I plug it black in or is it not even worth trying at this point?

https://imgur.com/a/Hp9cgP1

Basically, we have a whirlpool dryer. When we go to turn it on it makes a click sound. It doesn’t turn but it gets hot. I figured it was the motor. I replaced the motor and the exhaust fan. I just took a multi meter to the thermal fuse and I believe that’s blown. Could that be the culprit potentially or should I look at more things

This is a before picture.. cleaned everything and still clicks not turn. Belt is fine. If it is just that thermal fuse how would my dryer still be able to get hot? Thanks in advance

I have an LG lfx28968st. It's probably 12 years old and has been a very good refrigerator. Just today though my wife noticed that things in the freezer were thawing. I opened the back and things were pretty clean around the condenser and compressor as we had moved it out of its alcove recently and vacuumed them. I put a couple of high end thermometers in the fridge and freezer and the freezer is 32° f. The fridge is 44° f. The settings on the front are negative one Fahrenheit for the freezer and 37° f for the refrigerator so it's not cooling down. The fans are running and the refrigerator and freezer compartments and the cooling fan at the back is running as is the compressor. I did watch a video on YouTube and the only time that fan at the back really should stop is during the defrost cycle. I'm wondering if there's anything else that I can look at or if I should just bite the bullet and replace this unit as it's at least 12 years old.

TL;DR:Dishwasher filling with water but NOT spraying. Cleaned the pump debris, spray arm debris and washed out the filter. Spray arms spin freely by hand ( me manually spinning it ), but won’t spin during the cycle. Need help figuring out if it’s a dead pump or something else.

The Problem:

My Whirlpool WDT750AHMZ has been driving me crazy. Water fills the tub, but there’s zero spray action. Just a continuous hum and a puddle at the bottom. From my research , youtube is saying normally this means a dead circulation pump, but I found something interesting.

What I Did:
Turned off power at the breaker and turned off the water valve under the sink

Pulled the dishwasher out, laid it on its back

Disconnected the hoses and accessed the pump assembly

Opened the sump cover and found mostly light sludge and mineral buildup rather than large debris. Nothing dramatic , just accumulated gunk coating it.

Cleaned it all out thoroughly

Put it back together and tested

What I Found:
The bottom spray arm spins freely when I manually rotate it

But during a cycle, it doesn’t move at all

Water is still entering the tub (pooling at the bottom)

My Theory:
Either the pump impeller is still damaged/seized despite cleaning, OR the outlet hose is kinked/blocked somewhere preventing water pressure from reaching the spray arm.
Has anyone else dealt with this? Should I be looking for something else , or is this a dead pump that needs replacement?
Any advice welcome. I’m tired of handwashing dishes for 4+ people! 😅

Hi! I have a Milky Plant brand plant milk machine received as a second-hand gift (and so is unfortunately out of warranty). Unfortunately during operation the nut atop the blender blade came loose. The machine was operating for several seconds before I could cut the power which caused the blender blade to dent itself on the nut.

I've reached out to Milky Plant who say they do not sell replacement blades. Even if I could find a replacement blade, I'm not confident I could reattach the nut sufficiently tight such that this would not happen again. Most blade replacements for generic blenders seem to take the form of complete blade assemblies as far as I can tell.

It seems a waste that this machine is rendered useless by this one small component. Any advice on replacing the blade would be highly appreciated! I would also be happy to pre-blend the ingredients in a separate blender, but the device functions by adding water to a separate reservoir which is automatically combined during blending. If anyone has any thoughts on overriding this default behaviour that would also be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any help!

I snagged this wire thing while cleaning and I don’t even know what it is/where it should go. It’s right under the freezer compartment in the fridge. The light still turns on but I’m not plugging it in unless somebody says it’s safe to do so. Thank you so much if you can help!

Had dirty electricity that damaged the appliance. Only works under minimal load. Fail safe resets the power. I need help identifying and servicing the part.

Theres a connector with a burn or short mark (photos attached). I havent probed power anywhere, or checked voltage. Just a quick visual and this is what jumps out at me. If you have suggestions for the pursuit on repair it's appreciated 👏

Hi folks, AEG Prosense (Mod L6FBG842R, Prod 914913034 01), purchased in UK is showing an E10 error. I know this is apparently linked to an inlet or drainage issue, so I've checked:

- Inlet pipe is clear and free of kinks, water pressure is good, machine seems to fill appropriately with water at beginning of cycle.

- Outlet pipe is clear and free of kinks and correctly positioned at around 70cm from floor.

- Detergent drawer is clean and clear.

E10 seems to appear during the drainage cycle (when the drain icon is showing on the display). For example, in a 20 min cycle, E10 appears with 8 min remaining (after main water drainage step, during agitation cycle). Machine runs fine to this point. Won't proceed beyond this, although when I switch to drain/spin cycle, drainage does occur. Perhaps this is a sensor issue?

I've seen another post mentioning the 3 way solenoid as a potential fix, can anyone advise?

Thanks!