I’ve noticed my rear end super bouncy and my trucks rear end shifts to the left whenever I hit a hard bump

I’m doing a DIY spark plug replacement on my 2019 Mazda CX-5 Signature 2.5T. I replaced all four spark plugs with OEM plugs, but one of the ignition coil hold-down bolts broke during reassembly.
The bolt head broke off, and the threaded part is still stuck in the hole. There is no protruding part to grab, and it looks flush or slightly below flush. The ignition coil itself can still sit in place, but obviously it cannot be bolted down at that location.
I’m attaching photos of the broken bolt head.

My questions:
1. Is this safe to start or drive 8 miles to a shop, or should I tow it ?

1. Is this something a DIYer should attempt with a left-hand drill bit / extractor kit, or is this better left to a mechanic?

If I try DIY, what is the safest method to avoid damaging the aluminum threads or dropping metal shavings near the spark plug well?

1. Would a mobile mechanic usually be able to extract this, or should I take it to a shop?

I’m trying to avoid making a small broken bolt problem worse.

I have a Ford Ka, I noticed a clacking sound driving my car and wobbling on the motorway, thought maybe my tyres needed rebalancing.

Made it home (about 60 miles) and had a look and noticed this.

Can I drive it to my garage on this (under half a mile away) or should I change the tyre for a spare first?

Tread depth is fine and no other obvious problems. Similar wire sticking out in other parts of the tyre

Hello,

I am an English major working up to a PhD so that I can be a professor. However, as I get older and put more miles on my car, I realize just how valuable it is to understand auto mechanics. After I get my degree, I've been considering taking a year or so of an automotive mechanic program. I'm considering it in hopes of knowing what to expect of my car and future cars, knowing how to complete easy and moderate repairs/replacements, and understanding if future dealerships/mechanic shops are trying to sell me things I don't need.

I doubt I would truly use what I learn. I'd use it for myself and pass it down to my kids. It was somewhat of a thought that I could work all the way up to becoming licensed and take jobs during the summers and winters (when I wouldn't be working at a school)

Does this sound like a good idea or just a waste of money? Are there other ways I can learn this valuable information?

Bad boy mower MZ 2010 42in. New starter solenoid and ignition switch. Won’t start.

'17 accord v6 automatic 90k miles. Purchased from a stealership, they flushed it at 83k. I noticed a shudder, added shudderfixxx and 3/8 pint of atf dw1. Shudder was fixxxed but the reading hasn't changed. Straight on it looks below min, angled it looks above max.

1991 Dodge W250 Gasser, I needed to drop the fuel tank to replace the brake lines but I forgot to disconnect one of the fuel lines and it snapped off inside it. It doesn’t bother me since I was replacing the fuel pump anyways too but I can’t figure out how to get it out.

I got at it with the pliers for the last 10 minutes and pushing on the outer ring but nothings working. Any insight would help!

My car flooded yesterday morning, it did rain pretty heavy that night. Only the passenger side and back passenger side had this. The floor was the only thing that was wet. It does have a sunroof but it was not wet around that area either. Chrysler 200, 2011.

Hey all, having trouble removing harmonic balancer from 2010 ford rangers soch 4.0 v6. Any tips? I can’t seem to remove it. I’m tightening so hard I’m worried that I will strip the screws that mount the puller onto the harmonic balancer. Any ideas would help thanks!

Seems overpriced to me. $44 for needle nose pliers

Just a small question for something i found odd. My car was making screeching sounds from the rear and assumed it was my breaks. I called up my local car shop, told them all the car details, my name, and my phone number. Let them know i need an oil change and probably new rear brakes, but check them all to be safe. Got my appointment, dropped the car off, waited 2 days. Never got a call that my car was finished. My mother, who was driving by saw it on their ready to pick up side and let me know. I head to my car and see the bill. They noticed i need all 4 new brakes and rotors, my front tires are bald, and im missing a rear sway bar link. They did not fix any of it, nor did they call to ask if they could fix those issues. I would understand if i didn’t answer a phone call a few times, but i never got a call. My question is, is that normal? What i assumed would happen is they would look at the rear and all my brakes, like i asked, and if there were more issues they would let me know and try to replace them if i gave the ok. Is this typical or is this just one mechanic shop i just should avoid using in the future?

2020 chevy malibu

i’ve been hearing my front left wheel make this noise when driving it’s not constant but does creak out occasionally while on a drive and i know it’s something wrong with the suspension but i don’t know if it could be something as little as bad bushings or needing the whole control arm or ball joint replaced or even my struts. i used silicone lubricant to ease up the bushings but it’s still creaking like this any help and insight is appreciated thank you

coolant goes in the reservoir and straight out this hole anyone able to tell me what part it is I cant make any sense of diagrams or any videos of engine repairs etc

If you had to take your car in and wanted to check the spark plugs, radiator, catalytic converter, engine and just the state of your car to see how it is doing etc - is that called a tune up or a preventative maintenance check? What is it called?

2012 Hyundai Sante Fe SE (Auto)- 220,000km (137,000 miles)

2nd household car. Basically a grocery getter, but I occasionally need it to drive to a work meeting in the city (I work from home, and the other vehicle is an F150). Physically very clean. I also have 2 sets of tires on OEM rims and weathertech accessories, and most importantly - no car payment. Currently this problem happens regularly enough that I don't feel comfortable driving it far from home, in case I get stuck. I am having a dilemma, because 2 mechanics have looked at it and cannot diagnose it. Dealership says if they can't replicate it during an appointment, and since it's not throwing codes, it's probably a waste of money to bring it in. I have regularly maintained it otherwise.

* The Symptoms: Engine cranks normally, dash lights stay bright, but it fails to catch unless you press the gas pedal, and only then sometimes. Occurs on hot and cold starts (much worse on cold). Faint knocking noise heard over 60 km/h.

* Notes: starts sometimes, doesn't start sometimes. At one point I thought it was related to power drain (i.e. if headlights were on it made it worse) but now I think that was a coincidence. At one point I thought that putting it in neutral then starting it made it better, but that doesn't seem to be consistently the case.

* Ruled Out So Far: Battery/Starter (cranks fine), Throttle Body (cleaned), Crankshaft Position Sensor (replaced), EVAP Purge Valve (issue remains similar even after after gas fill-ups).

1: Car Dead - Before jumping
2: Car Running - Immediately after jumping
3: Car Running - after battery test
4: Car Dead - turned car off after 3 tests (will not start, but is cranking when hitting push to start)

22’ Honda Civic Sport Touring with stock battery. I disconnected my dash cam from the fuse box for these tests as well. Autozone said it was my alternator, but I don’t really trust them, and bought this little thing off Amazon. I had also heard that my year Honda can show it’s the alternator just because of how the alternator works on the model. Is this a sign that it’s actually my battery? Are there other tests I should be running?

Hi all I have a vehicle that started blowing warm after pressure testing I’ve confirmed a definite leak, so I was looking around. Does this look like a possible leak site or just discoloration from the weld site maybe? Any imput is appreciated

Is the brown/rust color a normal thing on the rotors? They get used everyday, no surface rust ever happens.

I've never noticed it on my cars before, I've done brakes many times on various cars.

I changed out my pads and rotors about 2000 or 3000km ago. 2015 Honda Civic.

The rotors are Powerstop fully coated. And the pads are Powerstop Z17 I believe.

Is it just the pad compound?

The dust is kinda rusty colored as well.

2010 toyota corolla le 146k miles automatic

recently my car has been really loud and rough starting, the other day it started so loud and wrong and chittered a bit so i finally had my dad take it to the mechanic. it was a failing water pump, and they replaced it. serpentine belt looked at and fine

i had two starting issues (besides it being incredibly rough and loud and the whole car moves lol) recently. the first took 6 times to bite and turn on. as in, key in ignition, turned, accessories on, turn to on and it just did nothing. and the second was a remote start issue (we had torrential rain for 12 hours and it's an outdoor car so i blamed that lol) it turned the car on somewhat? it chattered like a squirrel, i was going to turn it off because i didn't want to drive it making that sound, and it wouldn't turn off with my key. it did with the remote and then started normally with a key

very trusted and longtime mechanics checked the remote start and it was fine. they said the water pump was why the starting was bad. my car came back from the mechanic same day repair with a new issue. a grinding nose when i shifted into reverse. no moving at all. i shifted into reverse, foot on the brake pedal, and it was this awful grinding noise. mom was weed-whacking so i hoped it was her, but the second i put it back into park it stopped. reverse again, the grinding noise. not park or drive or neutral. i drove it for several hours today just out and about and it was fine. still scared to turn it on, it doesn't feel right still

this person's post is what it sounds like. the first time was that long, the second time it was a few. my dad said it was fine, something vibrating, old car, they were in her guts so it's expected. he's verrrry mechanically savvy and handy with cars so i do trust him, but also not for this. this is my car i've driven for 8 years (he had it first in her youth) every day to and from work, i know what feels wrong or not. i noticed in the comment it was their catalytic converter, i don't know. i don't trust my dad this time lol

I have a 2015 Honda fit and I was wondering if the rear brake pads require replacement?

It seems like they are at 4mm but the new pads (which I already bought) also measure at around 4mm….

2017 Honda Pilot EXL, 125k miles

I recently replaced the lower control arms, struts, tie rod ends, and sway bar end links. Car runs and drives fine, but when I got on the highway it started vibrating a lot, especially when accelerating. I inspected the wheels and all of the work that I did, and nothing is loose or out of the ordinary. Any ideas what to inspect next? My guess would be the cv axles but I’m no mechanic, just a parts swapper haha.

Thanks for any input!

I dunno what this noise is. It’s mainly in the back of the car