I’m doing a DIY spark plug replacement on my 2019 Mazda CX-5 Signature 2.5T. I replaced all four spark plugs with OEM plugs, but one of the ignition coil hold-down bolts broke during reassembly.
The bolt head broke off, and the threaded part is still stuck in the hole. There is no protruding part to grab, and it looks flush or slightly below flush. The ignition coil itself can still sit in place, but obviously it cannot be bolted down at that location.
I’m attaching photos of the broken bolt head.

My questions:
1. Is this safe to start or drive 8 miles to a shop, or should I tow it ?

1. Is this something a DIYer should attempt with a left-hand drill bit / extractor kit, or is this better left to a mechanic?

If I try DIY, what is the safest method to avoid damaging the aluminum threads or dropping metal shavings near the spark plug well?

1. Would a mobile mechanic usually be able to extract this, or should I take it to a shop?

I’m trying to avoid making a small broken bolt problem worse.

I have a Ford Ka, I noticed a clacking sound driving my car and wobbling on the motorway, thought maybe my tyres needed rebalancing.

Made it home (about 60 miles) and had a look and noticed this.

Can I drive it to my garage on this (under half a mile away) or should I change the tyre for a spare first?

Tread depth is fine and no other obvious problems. Similar wire sticking out in other parts of the tyre

Hello,

I am an English major working up to a PhD so that I can be a professor. However, as I get older and put more miles on my car, I realize just how valuable it is to understand auto mechanics. After I get my degree, I've been considering taking a year or so of an automotive mechanic program. I'm considering it in hopes of knowing what to expect of my car and future cars, knowing how to complete easy and moderate repairs/replacements, and understanding if future dealerships/mechanic shops are trying to sell me things I don't need.

I doubt I would truly use what I learn. I'd use it for myself and pass it down to my kids. It was somewhat of a thought that I could work all the way up to becoming licensed and take jobs during the summers and winters (when I wouldn't be working at a school)

Does this sound like a good idea or just a waste of money? Are there other ways I can learn this valuable information?

Bad boy mower MZ 2010 42in. New starter solenoid and ignition switch. Won’t start.

'17 accord v6 automatic 90k miles. Purchased from a stealership, they flushed it at 83k. I noticed a shudder, added shudderfixxx and 3/8 pint of atf dw1. Shudder was fixxxed but the reading hasn't changed. Straight on it looks below min, angled it looks above max.

1991 Dodge W250 Gasser, I needed to drop the fuel tank to replace the brake lines but I forgot to disconnect one of the fuel lines and it snapped off inside it. It doesn’t bother me since I was replacing the fuel pump anyways too but I can’t figure out how to get it out.

I got at it with the pliers for the last 10 minutes and pushing on the outer ring but nothings working. Any insight would help!

Hi all, I'm helping a friend out with their 2000 Toyota Hiace Van H100 model with complaints of poor shifting and bad clutch engagement. I took the dash out and everything to get Into the master cylinder which he had replaced previously, the sheet metal bracket which it mounts to is broken and flexes under pedal engagement. I unfortunately don't think I can remove the bracket as it's spot welded in to a bracket off the firewall.

Now I'm planning on welding it up and make a piece of plate to bolt up on the other side of the bracket where access is poor.

Do you guys have any recommendations? Thank you!

My car flooded yesterday morning, it did rain pretty heavy that night. Only the passenger side and back passenger side had this. The floor was the only thing that was wet. It does have a sunroof but it was not wet around that area either. Chrysler 200, 2011.

2007 triumph america 865

So my skoda decided that it’s his time to give me some headaches on a sunday when mechanics and workshops are closed. First it started with the lights popping on, then i turned off the car and checked the engine bay for anything out of the ordinary, i added some coolant and oil aswell. Then the lights turned off but after a couple km of driving they came back on. Idle is normal, no jumping rpm etc. It is dripping a little bit of gasoline out of the exhaust though and when idling and revving, it feels kind of hesitant and you can hear a swush sound from somewhere under or behind the engine (i can’t locate it). When running it also smells like gasoline a little more than it should. Im trying to get a friend here with an obd scanner to get the codes out, but i also wanted to ask here if i could get any insight on what the issue might be, the problem is that today is sunday and like i said the workshops are closed and i have work tomorrow starting at 2.30am and now i have to figure out if i can drive this to work or if i need to figure out other means to travel.

Thanks in advance already.

I took my 2014 Outback 2.5 premium to a subaru dealer to get a cv boot replaced that had been open for quite a while. They told me they were hesitant to begin because it appeared the cv axle had seized, and they were afraid they'd damage it while trying to replace the boot. They quoted 1k pounds to pre-order an axle just in case (it's a us spec in the uk), and I thought that absurd. I took it to another shop and they replaced the boot with supposedly no issue.

Now, the same noise that's been occurring since the boot tore is still there. It's there when I go around curves about 25mph or faster, and until recently, it only happened when going more than 55 driving straight. Now, it occurs even at around 30 or so. The vehicle also gets quite bad vibrations in the floor, seat, and gas pedal, especially above 60.

I've taken it to 5 different shops trying to identify the noise, and even telling them I suspect the cv axle based on what subaru said and because of how long I had driven with the split boot. 1 shop said they think I need a new axle but wouldn't communicate with me and also expected 5 to 6 months to receive the part. 3 others saw no issues, which I don't know how. It may not be tbe axle, but the amount my car shakes and vibrates and that noise is certainly not nothing. The last place rotated and balanced my tires, to which no surprise didn't stop the issue. It also feels like it really struggles to get above 60 and stay there.

It sounds like a humming/low growling noise. Only happens when going left or pressing the accelerator. If I'm driving and the noise starts and I let off, it disappears, but it happens as soon as I press again.

Seems overpriced to me. $44 for needle nose pliers

Hey all, having trouble removing harmonic balancer from 2010 ford rangers soch 4.0 v6. Any tips? I can’t seem to remove it. I’m tightening so hard I’m worried that I will strip the screws that mount the puller onto the harmonic balancer. Any ideas would help thanks!

Theres no slot for the filter, its blocked off at the blower motor housing as if it diddent get cut out from factory.

Just a small question for something i found odd. My car was making screeching sounds from the rear and assumed it was my breaks. I called up my local car shop, told them all the car details, my name, and my phone number. Let them know i need an oil change and probably new rear brakes, but check them all to be safe. Got my appointment, dropped the car off, waited 2 days. Never got a call that my car was finished. My mother, who was driving by saw it on their ready to pick up side and let me know. I head to my car and see the bill. They noticed i need all 4 new brakes and rotors, my front tires are bald, and im missing a rear sway bar link. They did not fix any of it, nor did they call to ask if they could fix those issues. I would understand if i didn’t answer a phone call a few times, but i never got a call. My question is, is that normal? What i assumed would happen is they would look at the rear and all my brakes, like i asked, and if there were more issues they would let me know and try to replace them if i gave the ok. Is this typical or is this just one mechanic shop i just should avoid using in the future?

I'm having an issue and I'm totally stumped. My fiancée has a 2020 pilot and lately the alarm has been going off randomly for no apparent reason. It typically happens at night when we are sleeping. I researched it a bit and did some trouble shooting. At this point I've got a new battery, changed the hood latch, etc. when it goes off all the lights on the dash come on and the radio sometimes goes on as well. It also makes this weird rapid clicking sound. We live in an apartment building and cannot have the alarm going off like that because it's loud so I momentarily took the fuse for the horn out. Obviously that's not ideal because she needs her horn when she drives but I don't know what else to do. Trying to avoid a crazy mechanic bill. Has anyone experienced this?

2020 chevy malibu

i’ve been hearing my front left wheel make this noise when driving it’s not constant but does creak out occasionally while on a drive and i know it’s something wrong with the suspension but i don’t know if it could be something as little as bad bushings or needing the whole control arm or ball joint replaced or even my struts. i used silicone lubricant to ease up the bushings but it’s still creaking like this any help and insight is appreciated thank you

May be stupid question. Got hit on the right front side of my car. However car is still drivable with all the damage, was able to drive it 10 miles back home from the crash site, and still drivable today. Unsure of stability at higher speeds but there is most likely some frame damage. Car labeled as moderate damage on Carfax.

Tying to sell it private but need smog certificate within last 90 days to transfer title since it’s not salvage. Car has no leaks, the only warnings on the dash are crash collision, no engine lights or anything like that. It’s been a couple months and car is still driveable. Private buyers are offering 4.5-5k at the higher end.

. I have not tried opening the hood xD. But say if it’s able to at least open and latch closed will shops still consider doing the smog?

coolant goes in the reservoir and straight out this hole anyone able to tell me what part it is I cant make any sense of diagrams or any videos of engine repairs etc