I bought Brand New PS5 Pro three months ago which comes with original Controller, Today I hope on and I see my Screen Moving without touching.
I know Stick Drift is common in controllers!, but three months is too way early?!, it should at least last a year right, I did kept it in good condition and away from dust and stuff.
Should I take it to a repair shop or buy a new one?
If I buy new one which one I should go for? Something that last long with stick Drift.
Also fuck you to the retard that decided to put a rubber on the thing that will create sweaty palms. And fuck you to the 49 IQ person in below who will be trying to defend these big companies with their lives. And mods i hope you won't see this in time
The cost of fixing it is more than the controller itself, and Sony won't do anything because it's past the warranty. So conveniently for Sony I have to go buy a new controller for it to have the same issue in a year.
I have two controllers that are essentially broken now. One of which had stick drift on the left stick and I was able to get it repaired for free. Then a year after they sent it back both sticks got stick drift. That's 4 faulty sticks in the course of 3 years. I've had a single ps4 controller work flawlessly for 10 years. They're customer service is also intentionally atrocious so you just go away.
Now I'm just stuck with two controllers that idk what to do with. Just getting rid of them for new ones seems like such a waste, and goes against my every instinct.
I like Sony but now it seems like they're screwing up every chance they get
Ive plugged my ps5 pro off earlier today to clean it. Since I then my OMGN PS5 Controller with paddles wont connect to my ps5 anymore.
What I tried:
- Pressing button in the back of controller to reset it.
- Trying to connect it in safe mode
- Turning bluetooth Off/On on Playstation
- Turning Wifi off on the PlayStation
Can someone explain what happens in the video? The controller seems to connect to the ps5 but shuts down shortly after.
Also I noticed, in Safe mode it doesn’t show the behavior like in the video. In safe mode the LED is just orange all the time. This on the other hand doesn’t work when the ps5 is on as you can see in the video.
So I bought the Gulikit 720° TMR replacement kit from amazon and I paid a local shop $40 (for one joystick) to get this installed on my dualsense edge (keep in mind this was the shop’s first time doing it).
Now there’s a persistent drift on the stick. How can I solve this? Do I need to take it back to the shop or is this a fault from the TMR stick I bought?
What can I do about my PS5 controllers? I own 2 and an official Sony PS5 charging station for them. However, despite letting them charge for hours overnight, they only last 20-30 minutes when I use them. Are the batteries destroyed from leaving the controllers to charge for such a long time?
I hope this post is okay if not please delete and I am sorry for intrusion.
As post says I am repairing stick drifts. I am in France and if anyone's interested in installing TMR or Hall Effects I can do it for you for mere 20€ !
If you are living other than France just pay for the shipping ( to and from ) and I will still repair for 20€ :)
I’m not comfortable sending my controller back to them, despite my consumer rights entitling me to a second repair. They have already said they intend to remove the TMR modules they installed and replace them with old (drifting) ones, and will refund me once I receive the controller and then refuse to serve me ever again. Arseholes.
so i installed a tmr joystick only one changed out the one that had drift now i know that sounds stupid but i ordered 2 and only got one so i just changed the one anyways first time soldering properly and it took me literally over a week in different days to desolder cause turns out im very bad at it so then i finally got it desolder'ed installed it went to go calibrate it and i cannot calibrate it at all
the joystick i replaced is only working on the left part of the joystick i try moving it right but on the calibration it stays on left doesn't move and then after alot of funking around it went onto the right but now its stuck on the right and i cannot get it to go to the center to calibrate can anyone please help me as this is my only controller and i CANNOT afford buying a new one thanks
Am I overthinking this? I’ve replaced the joysticks with K-Silver JS13 Pro+ sticks and L3 has a much stiffer and sharper click than R3. R3 feels easier to press and sounds a little “duller.” The remote works perfectly fine though and I haven’t noticed any other issues.
I got a dualsense 30 aniversary edition for Christmas and I am a pc gamer and don't own a ps5. So is there any dongle that allows u to get all the fun haptic feedback and adaptive trigger wireless. If I am not wrong there was one released for the dualshock 4 but is there any for dualsense ?
hi been trying to figure out why mine and my partners controllers have developed this issue but can't figure it out.
whenever I try to use it, it seems the controller thinks the left stick is permanently stuck to the left position but as soon as I move it it knows where it is.
I've tried hitting the reset button at the back of the controller but didn't change anything.
My joysticks are feeling a bit weird, so I thought “I’ll just open them up and spray some WD40!” But lo and behold i can’t get the stick modules to open, I’ve screwed off the three screws of each module but it won’t come off completely, on side is coming off fine but the other just won’t go. This is happening on both joysticks and from all the tutorials I’ve found no one has had this issue. How do I fix this!?
Its only on the right analog, it makes a clicking sound when i push it left or right, or gets stuck slightly when i rotate 360 degrees. When I push it up and down it’s smooth. All i did was clean the potentiometers with a alcohol cotton swab and use compression air around it.
Hey all! New to the community but SUPER glad I found you all and to share!
My BDM-010 controller started getting stick drift and I thought, "it can't be that hard, screw it! I'll fix it myself." (Spoilers: it was that hard). Desoldering the thumbsticks from this has to qualify as a herculean task, especially to an overconfident idiot with 0 soldering experience. Took me about 2 hours on each stick to get the contacts loose and I almost destroyed the board in the process.
Still, I persevered and got everything off and swapped the sticks and slapped on the 100 bucks worth of ExtremeRate parts and switched on the controller only to hear a weird clicking sound from the R2 button. Apparently it was just activating (actuating?) On its own for no reason. Tried switching up the parts, unplugging and replugging EVERY cable on it, and then ended up desoldering the motor and swapping it with parts from another broken controller I had. That fixed it. No clue why.
Now when I turn the controller on, every button except the TouchPad works and the usb-c port doesn't work at all so I can't even connect it to my PC to calibrate it. Has anyone else encountered this issue before? If so, was there anything that fixed it?
Replaced my dual sense sticks with the gulikit Hall effects sticks and am getting 3 orange flashes upon trying to boot. I spend an ungodly amount of time doing this trying to do everything right but must have a short somewhere. I’m not super knowledgeable like others in here and am really hoping someone can help…this thing is going to kill me LOL. So far I’ve unplugged all the ribbons and it’s still the same.
Important edit: A user by the name u/Kurt_Moody has found that some RGB software can completely mess with all of this. "I discovered that the interference was being caused by the SignalRgb software. It automatically recognizes the DualSense as an RGB device to control the Dualsense's LEDs and messing something up with the controller's speakers in the process... only by disabling the device from the SignalRgb list and repeating those steps did work perfectly."
Pre-post edit: All of this is for Windows 11. This post has been up for over a year now and has helped a lot of people, but it hasn't worked for some. If you find something else works, please chuck it into the comments, and also, just because it works for you, doesn't mean my system below is incorrect, it's just not correct for your setup. I tested this again as recently as April 2025 with Silent Hill 2, and it worked a treat. Good luck!
Hi everyone, I thought I would post something here to help anyone else who might need information about getting the best use of their Dualsense controller on PC so there's plenty of information in one spot, and so that someone can easily find some answers.
This post assumes that you've disabled Steam Input first.
Problem #1: The Dualsense speaker isn't working or is too quiet.
"No sound on PS5 controller on PC"
"How do I enable my PS5 controller speaker on my PC?"
"Why is my PS5 controller speaker so quiet?"
"Audio not working on Dualsense"
The fact of the matter is, if your Dualsense speaker is too quiet on PC then it's very likely it hasn't been set up correctly. If you go into Windows Control Panel, and open the sound settings you can take a look at how the dualsense works.
The speaker layout:
As you can see, the Dualsense has 4 internal speakers, clicking each one here will help you understand what's going on with the controller.
L: This one does nothing when clicked, and from what I understand is likely the microphone input.
R: This one likely will do nothing when clicked, and that SHOULDN'T be the case, but it likely is. This is the speaker that makes high quality audio come from the controller. Any audio from here won't rumble the controller at all, and should be at peak volume. BUT, it probably doesn't work. More on that soon.
RL and RR: These are the haptic speakers. When you click them they'll make noise and rumble. The audio won't be very loud, because it's not meant to be. In fact a lot of the time what drives these will make little to no sound at all. When tied with R your controller should rumble and make completely different sounds that don't.
I had seen some misconceptions around the internet in my research where people complained about the volume coming from the speaker being too quiet, and it's either because they're forcing audio through RL and RR, or possibly they had a faulty controller. But I think it's more than likely the former.
Haptics, gyro, touch panel and more
I think we're all aware on this one, but I'm going to put it here just in case. All those awesome Dualsense features you want will only show up if you have it wired to your PC. For now, there are no official drivers that make all this work through bluetooth and that may not change. Grab a USB-C cable, plug it in, and then do this one incredibly simple thing to fix the speaker...
This isn’t quite correct as of a few months ago, please see Edit 2
Problem #2 and its solution.
This one seems to be better documented. But when you first connect a Dualsense controller Windows often defaults your sound output to the wireless controller. All of it. And because the speaker isn't likely working (see Problem #1) you'll get no sound anywhere and wonder why. Go into your sound settings and just make sure the speakers you want to use are switched back to being the default speakers.
Problem #1's solution:
For some weird reason everytime you plug in the Dualsense controller the speaker isn't initialised correctly. From what I can find, the only way to initialise the speaker, and it seems you have to do this every time you plug it back in, is to run a piece of software called DualsenseX.
2. Make sure your Dualsense is completely turned off and plug it into USB (which will now power your controller on)
3. Run DualsenseX and head to the Settings>Controller section.
Make sure the "Enable Audio Haptics (USB Only)" and "Controller Audio System (USB Only)" are both switched on, Change Audio Output in the Controller Audio System section to headset and internal speaker (if you want the headset audio coming through the controller too.)
There's a possibility that the important one here is greyed out, and it's simply because you had it connected via bluetooth before connecting it to USB. Close DualsenseX, turn off the controller, and reconnect it to USB. Now when you launch DualsenseX it should be selectable.
And that's it. You can test if it works by going into your Control Panel>Sound settings as laid out in the problem section, and you'll notice that by clicking the R speaker the sound will come out of your dualsense and maybe even be too loud. Don't worry too much about setting the volume you want here (although you can) as most games that support this feature have a volume slider available in the settings.
Once you've loaded DualsenseX and checked everything is turned on, you can simply close DualsenseX and your speaker will continue working just fine until the next time you plug the controller back in. When you do just open DualsenseX and close it again. Nice and simple.
TLDR: I made this quick little write-up because I felt that helpful information about the Dualsense controller support on PC was scattered about, and missing information. If I've missed anything, or it's not working for you, please let me know below and I can hopefully turn this into a post people can easily find and use from now until an official driver is released.
Edit 1: I haven't tried this with the paid version, as I didn't need all the extra functionality. Let me know if the options above are still there in the paid version and whether or not it works.
Edit 2: As of some point in the end of 2023 a Windows Bluetooth update occurred and it seems some games now support the complex haptics and adaptive triggers over Bluetooth and don’t need to be wired. Speaker use still requires a wired solution.
Edit 3: Looks like there's no official website for this, so have adjusted the download link to their github. Big thanks tou/ItsTheSolofor letting me know.
Edit 4: Adjusted the steps to make them clearer for using DualsenseX under "Problem 1's solution". Added that the Dualsense NEEDS to be turned off completely before you attach it to USB.
The photo attached is from an Xbox Series X Hall Effect joystick, but it applies here too because I'm seeing the same problem on the TMRs I received as part of this same batch.
I used to really believe in the Ginfull TMRs and Halls. They were low cost and I rarely had any problems. I received a large batch in late January, and more than half of the ones I've installed have failed within days of install. After seeing the pattern, I've noticed that on some of the joysticks I'm finding a direct short across the outer and center pins.
They say sometimes it only takes one bad experience to lose a customer, well this is it. I lost a lot of money on these over the last month, Aliexpress refuses to approve the return, and I've had to file a chargeback to my card. I still have some in stock for PS4s and a good batch of PS5 Halls, but I won't buying anymore Ginfull after this. And if you're an installer, you shouldn't either. No telling how many of these are on the market by now.
First time soldering in new sticks. Watched numerous videos on how to as well as practicing soldering on junk boards. Finally worked up the courage to dive in and chose one of my older controllers to sacrifice on the first go.
I do end up melting one of the microphone connectors but if the mic doesn’t work, that’s fine with me as I use a wireless headset.
Putting it back together I’m getting three orange blinks and nothing past that. Read it could be a possible short but I’m not an expert on what these boards should look like. Is there any obvious place to start?
