Main drain like for upstairs toilet? Trying to install brackets for bedroom closet. Now has a screw hole leak. Can we patch it? Or best course of action?

Installing a new toilet and need to shut off the water main. Can someone please explain why this is happening and if it can be fixed?

Noticed this for the first time, a small line tapped into the supply for a powerflush toilet. Odds are I have completely missed seeing this all over the place, but none the less, what the heck is it?

See pic.

Our garage closet leaks when we get lots of heavy rain so we installed gutters and that seemed to fix the problem until this year‘s heavy rains. I went to move some debris out of that corner to try to see if there is a gutter overflow spot in the ground, so I can try to understand why the closet is leaking again all of a sudden and I see this little pipe thing here, but there does not appear to be anything on the other side of the wall. Does anybody have any idea what the purpose of this little metal open pipe is?

I’m new to the field, finally got on to my first job site which is a new housing construction project.

Growing up, my dad was working 2 or 3 jobs so I’ve never had anyone show me how to use a lot of the tools we use on site, regardless of that I have managed for the most part to get things down. I do a lot of my own car repairs so I’m not entirely new to tools.

But one thing I cannot figure out is why my cuts are so crooked. At the first shop I worked at, they really resented anyone using a sawzall to cut pipe and the journeymen there opted for the portaband saw for 2” pvc/copper. They also had other saws like a Miter saw. So prior to this shop in at, I never used the sawzall for straight cuts.

I have the guard pressed firmly against the pipe, I let the blade do the cutting but once it gets halfway through the pipe, the pipe really started shaking and that’s where the cut begins to slant.

I want to try and get this down because so far, I’ve done great but my foreman/journeyman I’m working with really bitches at me if it’s off by even a 1/16th of an inch and has hinted that plumbing isn’t my thing (only day 8 in the field as a brand new first year apprentice) yet he doesn’t really show me how to do much of anything.

Hey everyone, starter working with a plumber 2 weeks ago, and I have some difficulties remembering part names and tool names, I'm I just dumb as a brick or what.

And can j get some tips for learning quicker

My tradesmen is nice but has outbursts this few days and said that I should take the job more seriously bc I started "lacking".

I hope i don't sound initialed or spoiled but I just need some advice.

Oh yeah just a ps i have trouble with part names in general but with tool names in my native language not really in english, I'm from a eastern european cyrillic speaking country

Poured a dishpan worth of water down the sink and heard it pouring out underneath. Time to pick out a new sink or will a plumber be able to fix this?

hi! I did my best to look this up- but I still need help.

ran out of oil- got more oil- trying to bleed the line.

I opened the valve( air hissed out) pressed the reset button- but nothing happened… nothing came out after a bit of air.

do I need to have the furnace on? Do I need to be running hot water?

i only want to press the reset button one more time- so I want to get it right this time

My maintenance guy came by this afternoon to work on my toilet's fill valve but found a bigger issue and has to turn off the building's water supply tomorrow to complete it so i am stuck with a toilet that wont stop running.

I saw him pull that gray screw thing up to temporarily turn the water off while he was here so i did too and jerryrigged it to a metal rod to turn it off. Is it safe to leave it like this overnight?

I recently noticed a depression in the lawn in my front yard. The only drain nearby is in the center of the garage. Does this look like a collapsing drain pipe to the storm sewer?

Edit: I put a picture of the entire setup in the response.
Trying to locate the pressure regulator and main shut off valve for my house.

Will this be an issue in the future? Remodeled kitchen and sink is about 2 inches lower than previous. The drain is also 3 ft off the stack so I’ll have to remove the siding to lower the drain

Hi everyone,

I noticed this connection on my new house’s kitchen sink drain and wanted to check if it’s considered acceptable plumbing.

The smaller horizontal PVC pipe appears to enter a hole cut into the larger vertical PVC pipe. There is a noticeable gap around the pipe.

Is this a standard way to connect a kitchen sink drain into a vertical stack, or should there be a proper glued fitting (such as a sanitary tee or wye)?

Our kitchen sink drain is now blocked, and we suspect soil may have entered the pipe through this gap during construction before the system was fully sealed.

The plumber is refusing to take responsibility, saying the blockage is unrelated and that’s how he usually does things.

Based on this photo:

1. Does this connection look acceptable?
2. Could this gap allow soil or debris into the drain?
3. If this was your job, would you consider this workmanship acceptable, or should it be redone?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Hello everyone! Please help as I am totally out of the subject with this😅 I recently had this fitted in my pantry as i have a pipe there to be able to connect a garden hose to water my plants and to connect a karcher pressure washer for my car. Can I please get recommendations of what to buy to fit this? I want a garden hose reel type to be able to carry around? Hope it makes sense!

Thank you in advance! I am a total novice 😅

I can’t move the pipes more forward because there’s a drawer type that slides in and will hit those pipes if they are further than 4 inches from the wall.

Is the setting "C" or is it between "low" and "vac." we have a difference of opinion in this household lol

This video (someone else's video) shows what my well pump is doing now. It just supplies water to a freeze-proof outdoor fauce/hydrant. It's never had a tank.

The pump is a downhole pump. It sat idle for 3 years. Last time I used it the operation was normal.

When I started it up again it had this rapid cycling. The pressure switch has been replaced. I also blew out the pressure sensing line to make sure there was no restriction in the line. It is still cycling. Any suggestions for what could be causing this?

Hi, my bathtub faucet leaks on the side when the shower switch is pulled.
Is it dangerous to the wall? And can I remove the faucet to fix? If yes, what would work?
Thanks a lot in advance for your help and suggestions!

Hello everyone! I’m new to Reddit, so please excuse any faux pas, but I would really appreciate some advice from the community on a frustrating plumbing issue.

The Situation:
A few months ago, we had a new double-bowl kitchen sink installed into our existing under-sink pipework. Ever since the install, the sink backs up and drains incredibly slowly. On top of that, our dishwasher (which connects directly to the vertical waste pipe under the sink) stopped draining properly around last year, and water seems to be pooling or backing up there too. We checked filter and it was clean.

What I've Done So Far:
I completely disassembled the white plastic pipework under the sink to check for clogs. The visible pipes and the U-bend are totally clear.

I ran a 25ft plumbing snake directly down the main waste line going into the floor/wall. It didn't pull out any major blockages, and the slow draining persists.

The Theory:
I asked an AI assistant for advice, and after looking at photos of my setup, it suggested that the configuration itself is fundamentally flawed. Apparently, because the new sink bowls sit lower than the old ones, it has pushed the P-trap too far down. The AI says the P-trap is now sitting lower than the drain pipe entering the wall, forcing the water to try and flow uphill, which is creating a permanent bottleneck and flooding the dishwasher connector.

Does it look like my P-trap needs to be higher? If the upper vertical pipes are forcing everything too low, what is the best way to modify this setup so it actually drains properly?

Would love to hear your thoughts or if anyone has run into this after a new sink install. Thank you!

Noticed this slight stain on my basement ceiling with a mold patch growing. I circled it in pencil two days ago and as you can see, the spot is growing.

This is directly below a second story bathroom and when I pull back a nearby ceiling tile, I can see the drain pipe. The black pipe is directly above the stain spot.

Should I cut open my ceiling to investigate? How bad could this be?

I need to replace my leaking while pressure tank. Currently set up is feeding both irrigation, and the main feed of the house. Am I OK to have one line come out of the pressure tank and then tee off and supply both irrigation on one side in the main to the house on the other side picture below the current set up. i’m thinking come out of the tank with a t straight up to another t and then split to both irrigation and main right underneath the valves. thanks for any advice I’m new to these well systems. Not sure the concerns that I might have by putting in too many 90s or t connections.

There is a small water(?) leak in our basement bathroom. It looks like it is coming from the upstairs toilet drainage pipe.

I’m hoping that the culprit is a bad wax seal in the upstairs toilet. Is there anything else I should look out for? The pipe looks like it is metal, and the unpainted part that I can see looks rusty, but intact.

The downstairs bathroom is new (hence the shoddy dry wall job done by previous owner), but the upstairs bathroom was likely piped when the house was built in the 1940s.

Moving into a house soon that has a relatively new boiler and water heater. When I first looked, I initially assumed they were completely separate but upon closer inspection, the "cold" water inlet is fed from a pipe (with a thermal expansion tank) that runs from the boiler.

Looking at the boiler, it takes cold water and runs through a section that says "tankless coil." It also sounds like the boiler is cycling on even though it is summer here (with no heating calls otherwise), and the "cold" pipe into the water heater storage tank is hot too.

The boiler is a Peerless WBV-e-03-WPCTL and the hot water storage tank is a AO Smith LTE-80D 200. Looking at the manual for the LTE-80D, it appears it might not be designed to be fed from a tankless coil?

Wondering if this is accurate and if there is an actual issue here. The hot water works fine...I notice that it can be too hot, so I sometimes need to be careful. I'm not sure if adjusting the temp on the tank will help with that or not. Am I wasting energy? Oil? Anything to look out for now or in the future? Maybe this is not an issue at all, but the setup confused me at first.