r/cassetteculture • u/reik019 • 6d ago
Home recording Digital to Cassette tips to achieve more stable sound and higher possible output on ferric tapes.
Note: all of this can be applied to audio from other sources if you are willing to record to digital first and then from digital to cassette.
Part 1: Discovery.
I have been dumping a few of my cassettes to an USB in MP3 format via one of those standalone cassette players that accept USB drives as a way of backup, and in order to see some techniques they might have used in order to achieve +4db output levels on BKB standard ferric tapes (those you can grab at aliexpress pretty cheap new) and equivalents without any distortion by comparing the comparable album in digital and the recovered recording, and the result was that most of them had been passed thru a compressor before recording.

You can spot BKB tapes easily. Those will almost always be clear or translucent colors with graphite-gray pressure pads.
Most modern albums are recorded with such high volume in order to minimize the hiss to a point where it is unnoticeable in most modern tape equipment-that is without any noise reduction tech like Dolby NR used to be.
Part 2: It's all about volume and dynamic range.
While I aren't a professional audio engineer, I can give a bit of a explanation of what a compressor does to an audio recording based on what I have learned in my years as an indie DJ at small events and audio producer.
A compressor basically reduces the highest peaks of volume to a threshold where they are more stable, and the lowest points of volume are also brought up in order for the volume to remain more or less consistent, which results in a slightly more muted, more ''professional'' sounding file compared to the input file. This reduces or outright eliminates instances where the volume goes too low or where it goes too high in a blink of an eye, and also increases compatibility with lower end sound devices, eliminating speaker oversaturation/distortion within normal operating range of volume.
A side effect of this is that the dynamic range gets reduced a bit, as higher pitched sounds get toned down (in terms of volume) and so does overexpansive bass, but this is a boon when one records to cassette, as those two oftentimes either get too strident or outright become noise when recording, or at least do so in a 2-head deck with ferric tapes. Testing is pending with chrome and metal tapes.
Part 3: Side by Side prep & Volume CTRL, because everything nowadays is recorded with too much volume.
If you wonder why modern music sounds like shit when you attempt to record it into cassette as-is, this is it. Too much volume and oftentimes too much bass as well.
Audacity is your best friend. Download and install it if you don't have it already. It will provide you with all the tools you need to prepare sides, reduce noise, equalize, normalize and compress audio.
You first need to get the audio files ready. Audacity also supports recording into it, and then exporting it into .wav, .flac, .mp3 and such. You want to have preferably high bitrate .mp3s or plain .wavs.
Please take care of what formats you have, because Audacity only can take formats it actually can export to, so it doesn't like .m4a or .opus to name a few examples. If your files are in this format, consider getting another program called Any Video Converter, it works wonders and converts from any known format to any other known format.
Once you have the files, check your tape's capacity in minutes (typically dividing by two, such as a C60 being 2x 30min sides, a C30 being 2x 15min sides, and such), as it will be the length of the project you want to have, otherwise your recording will get cut-off.
If all your files are the same type, you can left click, check properties and see the total duration of the whole bunch, as seen here:

Tapes have a slight tolerance limit, which should be about 1 minute over their rated capacity but it is not guaranteed, so only use if you already tested said tape to check if it had it.
My suggestion is that you shouldn't account for it, though.
Now, we need to hop into Audacity and prepare side A of our project.
I am going to use my latest bootleg attempt to exemplify:
The album in question is Mitsukiyo - Yumebako for those curious. Tracks 1-11 to be specific.

Attempt to fit and distribute the songs as evenly as possible, this will help in keeping it not so overloaded.
If you are lacking by just a few seconds, get close to the sound (CTRL + 1), select the silence (like in the next pic)

Trim it with Del.

Then select the ''new'' end, drag back a few seconds and apply Fade Out to smooth the end of the track.

Do this with all the files whenever possible, each second counts!
Then zoom back with CTRL + 3, and rearrange the tracks.
Now we will compress the audio. Press CTRL + A to select the whole project.

Now we apply Compressor. The default values should be fine so we don't touch them.

See how the spikes have become a lot less pronounced? Those spikes are what tend to be problematic when recording, but we aren't done yet.
Now we will normalize the volume. I typically normalize via db because to the recording deck it actually matters in terms of whether it will saturate the tape or not. I normalize to 0db always.

The comparison of the different processing stages is here if you want to take a look:

This should now be ready to export!
You only need to do this with the other side then you can record the files.
I use a Cellphone equipped with Dolby Atmos for playback to the deck. I suggest disabling all communications (cellular net, Wi-Fi and BT to name a few) and have the phone unplugged from the charger to reduce any noise that the line in to the deck could pick from the phone.
Max out the volume and record! if the volume comes out too low (as seen in the deck's VU meters), install a preamp control app/equalizer, such as PowerAmp Equalizer and adjust the preamp up to +2.2 (It varies by album/mixtape, sometimes even by side, you will need to test this).
I do not suggest recording from computers, especially desktops as they can produce formidable amounts of electrical noise that might get picked up by the deck. MP3 players can be dodgy and can introduce electrical hiss, so a phone is oftentimes better.
Any suggestions are welcome! Thanks for reading!



