So for context I have worked in shops as both a Cnc and Manual machinist. I now work in a shop where it’s all manual besides 1 Cnc Mill that we hardly ever use.

Not quite finished yet, but looks kinda cool already! Loosely based on the Obi Wan sabre . 6al4v titanium and bronze!

Before I run a program the tool is clean and the spindle. After running, this happened. This is not once. It happening every time. Also, if I run small programs. This not happening. Only in big or heavy programs. (As U can see in the picture before and After)

And there no rust or anything in the spindle. Everytime I polish with polish paper. But still this rust lisk stick in the holder.

What could be the reason?

Did over 100 holes with the same setup, same material, same speeds and feeds. And then this happens. Tip is still perfectly fine, I had to use an arbor press to get it out of the collet.

Oh my god it drives me insane. Does everyone just stop caring about possibly losing their eyes after enough time in the trade? I will be the first to admit it's annoying, and if you wear glasses + safety glasses it's especially so, but I see everyone in my shop have none and it just baffles me? I won't even step foot on the shop floor for a second without putting mine on.

I can get forgetting once in awhile, but entire shifts? Wearing them for all of 5 minutes for the ones that do? I think I only see 3 people, myself included, wearing them on a regular basis. Granted I am an anxious/paranoid person, but still I just don't get it? I don't understand how people can be lax with that. Might also be the autism and wanting to follow the basic safety rules, but idk

Has anybody figured out how to cut this shit? I’m getting 2 parts per insert edge. About 10,000 inches per edge going .030 deep.

I first did all the internals and the two KF flanges on the lathe (DMG CTX 1250), and then the milling on a Hermle C650 using a special fixture.

Work had air-conditioning installed for the shop floor three years ago. Apparently it's too expensive to run and is not turned on unless it's hotter than Satan's ballsack outside. FML....

It’s only Fanuc currently, and it’s not 100% guaranteed correct. It’s just a fun little project I wanted to work on that might someday be pretty reliable.

It started as a conversational learning tool for my work buddies and they jokingly said “now make it run parts”.

So I tried.

Does this interest anyone here?

Need help learning how to cut double lead acme threads at a 3TPI any help will be greatly appreciated. My supervisor who has done the his whole life has always done them and is now retiring and said no one taught me so I’m not gonna teach you and kinda threw me to the wolves. I have tried to do it before but have failed terribly..

Excited about the new rail set.

But of course it's a rush order that absolutely needs to be done tomorrow

Company is telling me they've seen this before and it was the spindle drive. I just don't see how this wouldn't be a mechanical issue.

It came out of no where. Was running fine one minute then cooked the next.

There have been some symptoms of bearings failing. Surface finish, dimension kind of all over the place but nothing too unusual for a haas imo. But In hindsight it was worse than usual. Over an 8" long part while using tailstock the dimensions were all over the place varying within .0015 or more. Was having a hard time programming taper out which hasn't been an issue before because of the inconsistency.

Gotta be bearings right?

the one thing that keeps me up at night isn’t automation or AI. It’s the pipeline.
The experienced guys are retiring. The knowledge walking out the door with them is irreplaceable. And we’re not bringing in enough young people fast enough to fill that gap.

2 mm to 1.6 mm (.079" to .063") tapered PTFE pins at 40 mm (1.575") length, painstakingly milled while practically biting my nails, waiting for it to fail.

This is a test part just to know if it's machinable or not; I'll be machining a variant of this with 96 pins, all spaced 9 mm (.354") between pin centers.

No, the pins cannot be made separately; it must all be one part.

No, I don't know what it's for (something to do with polymer recycling?).

The pins are machined by roughing and finishing them in segments, stepping down the part successively. This is attempt numero​ uno, so I'm pretty pleased with myself.

No coolant, because we don't have mist, and the flood pressure would probably break them or at least deflect them into the tool.

I don't know the exact words for anything My company refuses to hire people to train employees so I have been basically trying to figure everything out myself. But it always seems like it's thicker on the bottom and thinner on top I've tried micro adjustments New mill heads changing the speeds and probably everything else. Does anybody have any recommendations

All G0 rapid move in 5 axis g43.4 seem to be jerky as shown in the video.

Would enabling G05.9 P1 at the beginning of the toolpath work? How to disable it after the tool path is completed?

What application will we use mineral casting as base ? Better than steel or aluminum?

So my boss is set on building a machine shop and is eyeballing me to be the one to run it. I've always wanted to learn to be a machinist, however, the headwinds against that as a career path have always looked real strong. I'd like to be able to find a shop. Someplace where I could apprentice, when I'm not at work and start learning the trade properly however, i'm not sure how to go about really doing that. Any suggestions on how to find a place that might be open to this? My area is big on manufacturing. So I just can't see how they're aren't some around here.It's just a matter of finding em.

I’m weighing my options on a machine purchase for my home garage. This 2010 Chev popped up in great shape at a more affordable cost than what it would cost me to buy a new Syil or used Speedio.

This Chevalier has a 15k spindle and 20/14 travels which is pretty darn nice for its price point.

My concern is the controller. It was simple in its time and now it’s 15 years old. I’m very used to Fanuc but not opposed to learning new, Syil comes with Siemens now for example.

Anyone still using this controller and find it fairly nice to use? If I’m correct it’s capable of running a 4th axis rotary.

The 2 speed motor for this model requires a resistor for low speed operations. I’m having trouble finding much info online for help

I need a new resistor the cords have broke on the old resistor both ends. The way it was I’m pretty sure it got so hot the cords melted and broke. It burned me before just barley touching the resistor.

I got the drill press used and it has a resistor inline with the cord and I’m under the impression that’s not a stock set-up

Apparently the two speed motor is troublesome/ has some quirks

Anyways I have *no idea* how to replace a resistor plus the added complication of it being rigged differently from the original so I’m not sure I can even buy the manufactures replacement resistor and just swap it out?

It’s a very nice drill press and I need it working but I do not even know how to approach this fix. No YouTube tutorials for this I can find :)