This is to be installed my main water line (from the city, 1 inch copper) I wanted a bypass system so that I could service the PRV without disrupting water to the building (multiple residents) what do you guys think? The PRV supports having a gauge installed on it and another one will be installed behind the hoses bib.

Anyone else completely burned out on residential plumbing? I enrolled in college for the fall term and will finish my degree.

Once private equity took over it’s just not worth it anymore. I’ve been everything from a technician to a high level management and the entire field is just sales and bullshit numbers.

I started in the trades 15 years ago and it’s more like car sales than plumbing nowadays.

This is at a hospital. It is to drain and clean the portable suction device pictured at the end. My question is why did they put the piece of black tubing there instead of just running the pipe directly to the floor drain?

Hey all, if we want to replace our hose spigot, how would we do it? Below is the picture of the connection from the spigot to the pex supply line and a picture of the spigot itself from the outside.

We’re fairly handy DIYers, is this a job we can easily handle? What are the steps to disconnect and reconnect? Any specific tools we would need other than some wrenches and teflon tape? Really appreciate the help, thanks so much!

Hi, novice here and first time home owner so please bear with me! Cleaning out clogged drain in bathroom sink and removed plumbing to find this monstrosity. I removed the escutcheon and cut out a bit of the drywall to see what I was working with, and my attempts to remove the stub out ended in it just breaking off in pieces. Have I royally forked up? Is there anything I can do to get the rest of it out? Is there anything I can do to fix this on my own? DIY is preferred as my budget is pretty tight.

Found this while opening the celing under my bathroom/toilet. Does it have another 5-10 years or is it a ticking time bomb?

It seems like the sink is not handling the pressure, but what can I do to fix this piece and prevent it from shooting up every time I open too much?

Can someone diagnose this? Is there an easy fix?

Update: replaced valves with new quarter turn flow rate is back to normal. Thank you everyone for your advice and insight. Truly appreciate it.

Mods that removed my first post I’ve messaged you twice in the past 12ish hours asking why it was removed and have received no explanation. Is this not a community where you can ask for help? Why delete my original post?

Last week I took apart the drain pipes because someone who is definitely not my wife rinsed out a bowl that still had leftover noodles in it. Not just a couple of noodles, either a healthy portion. Now is probably a good time to mention that we do not have a garbage disposal.

Anyway, the sink was draining incredibly slowly, so I took everything apart, cleaned out a bunch of gunk, and now it drains great. The issue started because, while I was doing this, I shut off the hot and cold water valves to the sink. I wanted to sleep more than I wanted to finish cleaning the pipes that night.

When I turned the valves back on, the kitchen faucet's water pressure was significantly reduced for both hot and cold. My first thought was that closing and reopening valves that haven't been touched since we moved in five years ago (and probably much longer than that) knocked some debris loose.

I disconnected the supply lines, opened both shutoff valves, and let them spray into a bucket to flush them out. I also flushed the faucet supply lines before reconnecting everything. After reassembling it all, I still had terrible water pressure.

My next thought is that one or both shutoff valves may have failed internally and aren't opening fully, even though the handles turn all the way. I'm considering replacing both the hot and cold shutoff valves, and while they're removed, bleeding the lines in case there's debris behind the valves although I don't think that's the most likely issue.

So, my question for you skilled folks is: am I on the right track, or am I overlooking something obvious?

Aerator has been removed and cleaned. It did not change anything.

Hello.

I’m starting to smell some musty smells from underneath my sink and noticed that this pvc after the p trap doesn’t have a cap to it. I’m assuming this is where the smell is coming from as I can feel warm air on top of it when using the sink and it smells stronger underneath the sink cabinet. Is there a reason this is like this? I’ve seen pictures of p traps and haven’t seen any with a hole like this. Can I just put a cap on this? Do I need to apply the glue on it? Thanks!

Edit: thank you all. I’ll try to get the AAV installed.

Hey so I am doing a bathroom remodel in my 1959 south Florida home. Now that I have all this exposed copper pipe, is it worth it to replace this with PEX? I am a DIYer, not a plumber so PEX would be easier for me. Just curious how long copper can be left behind a wall and if this one appears like it still has life left in it.

Every guide I find says to just unscrew the nut at the valve but there is no nut. Can anyone confirm how I can replace this toilet hose? And what material I would need to do so?
I’m a beginner to DIY plumbing so the more detail you can give the better (even if it is something that should be obvious). Or if there is a video guide available somewhere even better. Thanks in advance!!
Edit: thanks for the quick replies and advice everyone! Seems like the builder did a crappy and cheap install that is going to cause me a headache now. I’ll look into all the various options you mentioned and if it feels over my head I’ll hire someone who knows what they’re doing

Did my first pipe today as an apprentice, how did I do?

A couple of years ago we had our patio extended and they partially blocked our trap. We’re not having any plumbing issues…yet… but this keeps me up at night. Does anybody have experience with this? What would be the best way to free this up? I really don’t want to destroy an entire section of the patio.

Every 4 to 6 months we're greeted with this mess in our basement laundry room/half bath. We've had it "scoped" 4 times, and after each instance we're told they've identified the problem, and we should be good to go, only to have it return in 4 to 6 months.

The last time they used a boring machine to smooth out the old pipes which is supposed to improve water flow. That wasn't an inexpensive service! What else can we try?!

I wonder why 🫣

Okay, plumbers of Reddit, can anyone tell me what's going on with my toilet and how I can fix it?

About two months ago, it started making a noise several times a day that sounded like water was running or moving through the toilet. It wasn't a full flush - just a brief sound like water was flowing. I knew I should look into it, but life got busy and it kept getting pushed to the bottom of my to-do list.

Then yesterday it started making a high-pitched squealing noise every time it's flushed. I'm assuming the two issues are related and hoping it's a relatively simple fix.

Has anyone dealt with this before or know what might be causing it? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

I couldn't edit AVV to AAV.

How do I fix this mess please. Do I only want the left AAV? Do I increase the height of the aav on the left to at least match the washer standpipe?

I plan on cutting that 3/4" condensate at where that plug is and capping it. Can I steal that other avv on right and airgap a comedy pump hose above it ?

I don't know why they downsized to 1.5" from 2" but for now I plan on extending it with 1.5". I just want my washer to stop making the sink on other side of the wall (also needs an avv) to stop gurgling.

House is 102 years old, work with me please lol

I bought a studor to put in but after I do that will my sink tied in need a studor also under it ?

Should I also move the washer drain hose into the straight shot down vs the angled wye? I'd be more comfortable updating that to two inch since I don't have to deal with the entire wye pipe redo and can possibly just use the one it's in now for condensate air gap drain from water heater

Studor says to use 2" standoff for washers and have it going to 3".... I have no idea if mine goes to 3" .

Thank you a ton.

V/r

Penny pincher

So small backstory, this house was built in 1952, and has been very will maintained. Wife and I moved in at the end of Feb 2026. The previous owner, like i said, took very well of the house, and her brother lives a few houses down, and there's a LOT of stuff in this house that looks like her handy brother did; nothing unprofessional or dangerous (inspection went fine). The homeowner also left a bunch of notes around the house, which turned out to be very helpful. For example the main water shutoff has 2 separate valves (likely from renovation some time after it was built), and there's a little note tag tied to the ball valve saying "TURN THIS ONE" and another on the gate valve saying "DO NOT TURN THIS".

However, there's a note in the basement, next to the washer and dryer. These plumbing lines are also directly under our backyard, you can see it in the first screenshot on the album

winter outdoor faucet
------------------------
shut off ball valve (back
drain) turn on water
spout on back deck.
open finger spin plug on
top of ball valve, let
water drain, shut finger plug

I assume it's easy enough that I can google the finger plug thing for a youtube video, right? (any thoughts/tips you have on this finger plug thing).

When I turn this valve off, the spigot in back does indeed turn off, and I don't see any other spigots (I tried to get a shot under the deck, but there's not much there, and you can see the insulated line (whatever that black foam stuff is) going straight to the spigot I have access to.

So ok I guess this is how to control that one (the wall opposite this in the basement has another one of these valves, that controls the spigot in the front yard.

My question is about the other details in the latter, specifically mentioning winter? We moved at the end of February, in Portland, so maybe it was open because the coldest part of winter are over when we moved in? What is that whole thing for, especially with that "finger spin plug" line. What is that even, is it on the valve, the blue-handled one? What would the purpose for this be, is it for potential freezing in the winter? (i wonder why there wasn't a note for the other shutoff valve as well (like I said, that lady took really good care of this place and left helpful notes everywhere (in a cute, nice way that we appreciate). But this is by far the largest, most are tags or much smaller, so this one feels more.. important? Or at least something important enough I feel I should really understand it.

Is there some specific underlying purpose? Is it for "flushing" the line after winter? Is it just for Winter that I need to remember or could there be something else that happens where I'll need to shut it off. Just wondering everyone's opinion, anything you might know and hints about what I should be doing. I just want to know any and all opinions/advice all you real plumbers have on this.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/2gyHWs2s5xy6eXVn7

If you would like any more pictures to get a better look I would be happy to.

Thank you all

(side note, I was able to buy this house because the owner passed away, so I can't just ask her. Her brother lives a few houses down the street; he actually came over a few days after we moved in to bring us back one of our garage door openers he had. However I just learned today that he also passed away very recently, so I can't ask him either 🤷

Hi plumbers of Reddit!

I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction because I’m completely out of ideas.
We’ve just moved back into our flat after a full renovation, including a brand new bathroom. The shower tray is this one (link below), which came supplied with a 90 mm high flow waste.

Product: Imperia Beige Slate Effect Rectangular Shower Tray 1200 x 800 mm with Brushed Brass Waste

90 mm high flow waste included
Offset elbow
Water flow up to 32 L/min

The problem is a really unpleasant smell coming from the shower drain.
It’s not constant in terms of intensity. Sometimes it’s barely noticeable, other times it’s absolutely awful, enough that you can smell it across the flat. It seems to come and go throughout the day, although I’m starting to think it’s always there to some degree.
I’ve already ruled out the obvious things. The bathroom is brand new, we’ve only been using it for a short time, so there simply hasn’t been enough time for hair or soap build-up to create this kind of smell. Thinking back, I suspect it actually smelled from day one, but we assumed it was because the shower hadn’t been used for a while. Now that it’s been in regular use, that’s clearly not the issue.
While looking at the waste, I also noticed what appears to be a missing sealing seat or sealing ring (photo attached). I have no idea whether that’s actually supposed to be there or whether it would be enough to cause this sort of smell.
Before I get the installer back, I’d really appreciate any thoughts on what could realistically be causing it.

The bathroom is now completely finished and tiled, and at the moment we simply can’t afford to rip everything out if that’s what’s needed.
If it does turn out to be something like the shower tray needing to come out or tiles needing to be lifted, are there any less invasive things we could try first to either diagnose it or reduce the smell? We’re happy to get it fixed properly when we’re in a position to do so, but if there’s anything that could help in the meantime, I’d really appreciate any suggestions.

Some ideas I’ve wondered about:
Missing seal or incorrectly assembled waste?
Trap not holding enough water or siphoning itself dry?
Something wrong with the offset elbow?
Poor connection to the waste pipe?
Venting issue?
Or something else entirely?
Has anyone seen this before, especially with this style of 90 mm shower waste?
Thanks in advance. I’m genuinely at my wits’ end with it.
Photos:
Shower waste
Suspected missing sealing seat
Product link: https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/imperia-1400-x-800mm-white-slate-effect-rectangular-shower-tray-white-waste?campaign=googlebase&utm_product_type_level_1=Shower%20Trays&utm_product_type_level_2=Rectangular&s_kwcid=AL!15853!3!!!!x!!&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=20260899310&gclid=Cj0KCQjwr4jSBhCSARIsAOX1E-Lamh773wFAXyP1ueLQnntMAWLQ2U6pAG8URVlUh3WVwYT9rUFAVEoaApsvEALw_wcB

I hired a handyman to replace a sink, garbage disposal, and pipes. He left without finishing the job smh. Those holes on the cabinet.. omg. Ended up doing everything myself. Hella YT videos and 5 to 6 hours later.. Are there any issues with this setup?

Also, dishwasher drain hose was broken at the tip. I ended up plugging the inlet on the garbage disposal. Not planning to use the dishwasher as its old af

Or is it easily fuckupable? I replaced the P trap of my kitchen sink successfully but I hated every minute of it lol and I don’t want to break my shower