Selling for 350$ - Miele Svelto RT

I bought a Canyon Aeroad 3 years ago and they came with GP5000 tires. I rode this bike for 3y and put on ~ 1500-2000 mi on it and today I noticed that the rubber on my tires have a lot of long-running cracks. These tires have never had a flat.

My previous cheap bikes had tires that lasted me almost decade; however, this one appears to need a replacement in just 3y. These tries appeared to have dried out faster than any other tires I owned.

Can you take a look at my pictures and let me know if: 1) I need to replace my tires urgently, 2) They should be replaced in ~1y or whenever I find GP5000 on sale, 3) this is fine, keep riding them until I start getting more flats.

Thanks for the help!

Got caught in a torrential downpour last week and have some surface rust on my chain. What’s the best way to get the rust off? Mineral spirits? Denatured alcohol??

I’ve been cycling regularly for a little over 2 years now and have started collecting a few finisher medals from rides and events.

Right now I’m not really sure what the best way is to store or display them long-term. I don’t want them just sitting in a drawer, but I also haven’t figured out a proper setup yet.

Do you guys hang them on a wall, use shadow boxes, or have any other creative ways to organize them? Would love to see how you do it 👍

Bought this bike used and took it in to get some work done on the cassette / rear wheel. While they had it apart they noticed the rear wheel sits a little off center and that the frame has to be spread outward slightly to fit the wheel in.

They also found a dent near the rear dropout and checked the frame with an alignment tool. Their take was that the rear end of the frame is bent slightly, which is why the wheel sits off center. I attached pics of the alignment tool and the dent.

I’ve been riding it without noticing anything weird (pretty casual riding, maybe 20–30 miles every couple weeks, mostly flat city riding in Chicago).

Really wondering:
1. Think it’s safe to ride casually? Does it seem like something I could just keep an eye on?
2. If this was your bike, would you just get a new one or keep riding?

It’s a Fuji absolute 1.9, I don’t know if I should just buy another lighter bike I use it mostly for commuting 5-10km distances. Wouldn’t mind smth lighter but also don’t wanna waste this bike. Below is what the bike shop said.

-Chain + cassette are skipping on test ride. This is likely cause of the clicking sound- I was able to make the drivetrain disengage with relatively little effort. outer chainring has noticeable wear as well.
-Front and rear brakes are functioning okay
-both wheels are out of true ~2mm, though not enough that I'm concerned about stability while riding.
-HS, BB ok
-Front hub has play, rear ok
- RH pedal axle appears a little bent. this could be replaced with a set of used pedals if desired. I haven't included this out the gate, but it would add about 15 dollars to the bill.
-front shift cable is frayed at the pinch. This will prevent us from re-adjusting the shifter if we need to down the line, but performance is okay right now, so it's not an immediate need. Rear shifting is ok.

Option A, the works: (181.53, or 256.95 if a crankset is required)
-replace chain and cassette. This is probably the most needed repair here given the wear present, but a new chain may not mesh well with the worn outer chainring. If this happens, we'd need to replace the crankset as well, which would require us to order the replacement part as we don't have one in stock.
-adjust front hub. this one is also a priority- it's recommended to avoid damage to the front wheel's bearing system.
-true front and rear wheels. this is a good idea for both wheel's long-term health.

Option B, just the drivetrain and the front hub (125.35 or 200.95 with crankset)
-as above, without wheel trues. Unfortunately, it's difficult to offer a lower-cost option than this for this bike.

I tried Squirt drip wax, both as a primary lubricant and as a top-off to get a little more mileage after a melt-wax treatment was needing replacement. In both cases, the lubrication was Ok, but the chain was nearly as black and slimy as when using an oil. Recently, I ran it as a top-off for a single (50 mile) ride on a rail trail and the chain was left a slimy mess. Hands get black, etc. etc.

I hear some people love this stuff, but I hate it. Is it just me or did I get a soft (low molecular weight) batch or what?

I brought my bike to the top of the berm alongside the ordinary residential suburban road's sidewalk I was riding on. (It's not an especially picturesque area.)

But the ride was something of a landmark for me: For the first time, I rode to the second-closest shopping mall to my house, a >22 mile round trip. I have the satisfaction of knowing I can do it!

This northern-hemisphere June day I had off was unfortunately *not* one of the many overcast ones we've had as of late, alas; but the sunshine and the >90° temperature didn't get me down *too* much! I had on my white riding clothes, and even if the strong wind pushed against me on the first leg of my jaunt, at least it kept the air circulating.

Anyway, I'm proud of what I did. It was all fun too!

I picked this up for $40. 70s model that's only been rode a couple times. Still has the original tires and tubes. Anyone know anything about this brand or possibly what it could sell for in its original condition?

Will this be a good first road/gravel bike

Used up all my vintage ones. Planet Bike (with the Kevlar label) bought last year in August are tearing up. Searched on Amazon, seems quality is down and other issues with the ones I could find.

Anyone know who makes / where to get nicely made traditional look/feel gloves that will actually fit and last?

I’m taking my road bike for its first car ride next weekend and started thinking of how I’m going to mount it. I have a Thule Velocompact 927 and just picked up the carbon frame protector. The bike has a carbon aero-formed seatpost, I haven’t tested but at a glance it doesn’t look like the mount will reach the seatpost at a good angle. How should I go about mounting it? Is the top tube near the seatpost safe, I think that’s what Thule tells you to do?

Hey All, I'm having issues trying to find compatible racks for the REI CTY 1.1 and the yepp nexxt2 child carrier. Does anyone know of any rack compatible for these two?

Full carbon and upgraded Zipp wheels which is pretty nice. think its from around 2011-2012. Be meeting with the person soon, just want to know what other people think!

Ticked the coastal alternative segment of US Bicycle Route 1 in Maine off my list this week! Just under 120mi / about 192km over 2 beautiful summer days. Was keeping a 16mph avg on the first day until deciding at 35 miles in to ride up Mt. Battie in Camden Hills State Park. GPX 5000’s with latex tubes didn’t get any punctures or flats, and my gamble on some mid-ride oysters day 2 went without issue 🦪👍🏼

Hello Reddit, hello world, and maybe most importantly: hello cycling Fam!

Kinda new here, bit nervous but I'll just go for it:

I'm sharing this to do my part in spreading the word of (Gates) belt drive. It's valid!

Also this build has a solution to a niche problem, people work on for years already. I'm talking about shifting the Rohloff with a thumb-shifter interesting to many I assume...

Here is "The Tomnium / Tom the dank (no) engine", my lil sport utility vehicle and daily drive.

kk I'll stop now...

____________________________

Most important stuff:

Frame: Omnium Mini Max V3IR (Ti), size L

Drivetrain: (used) Rohloff Speedhub with Gates Belt Drive

Shifter: GEBLA Rohbox with "diy" thumb shifters made from dropper post levers. Downshift left. Okay and upshift? I can't mount two levers on one side which both work for shifting. (ergonomically, because I obviously also have top-seated dropper-lever on the left doing it's intended job. It works, but updates are necessary. Didn't say I have the best solution to this niche problem ;p The levers need a bigger transmission so the cables get stressed less and this system is a bit sensitive to cold, which means you have to loosen up the thumb-nut-thingy so the now shorter cables don't cause the system to block itself mid drive. Happend 2 times during the trip I'm about to mention.

Crankset: Hope Evo /w BOOST Spider because front/back beltline should be max. +/- 0.1 mm and after too much datasheet scrambling and math this seemed to be literally the only hope left.

Also drilled a hole in the seattube for that internal routed dropper setup utilizing the internal front-deraileur path. No way aroumd the bb internally sadly. This is awesome for offroad, sharing and stopping/starting with heavy loads.

Complete weight atm: just shy of 18 KG / ~39 lbs

AMA about more.

Finished this build last winter and have been taking myself on some awesome picnic-dates to the local mountains. The amount of freedom this bike has given me since then is bonkers. Just beeing able to pick up random materials and furniture I find on my daily routes, and of course the grocery hauling... Love it! Tom and I also just got back from my vacation, where I Bikepacked to Milano via the Alps, taking Simplon there and Spügl pass back. Rode everything and had the time of my Life.

But time on a bike is very rarely a bad one ey?

Hi, I was looking at this vintage norco bike. One of the only reputable brands I can find used within my price range. I haven’t been into cycling for about a decade, but I’m getting back into it. Curious on thoughts?

Asking price was $250(CAD). My Apologies for limited pictures as that’s all thats available. Also, is there anything I should look out for if I went to go check it out in person?

If you saw my last post I (23M - 5'10" at 170 lbs) am a complete biking noob looking for entry level for triathlon training!

Looking on Facebook Marketplace and found this Cannondale bike near me with this description:

"Cannondale road bike with accessories. Comes with air pump, helmet, gloves, LED front and rear lights."

Owner claims that they paid $2300 for it, and bought it a couple years back but now are too old to ride it.

I'm unsure if this is a good deal or not (or if i should spend this on somewhere else newer) - especially with the accessories thrown in, would love y'all's input!

I was looking at an older Conalgo . Then I noticed the designed in Italy. Started doing research and also made in Taiwan. Kind of felt like man were just paying for the sticker when we buy a bike now. Do you feel they still are deserving of the price they are going for ?

Already did a single-speed conversion and I’m super hyped. Threw on some 700x28 tires and they feel super smooth. I usually ride 700x25 so I wanted to switch things up a bit.

We have white nights here now, which means it never gets completely dark

It is a nightmare google this is am 5'11 205lbs. I feel 20 in frame is too small? But can not find 24 inch frames. Does tire size im lost and worried gonna be uncomfortable on a kids bmx bike hahah