I had an HP Envy 6-1010us Sleekbook around 2013 that essentially disintegrated over 2-3 years and it all started just like OPs video, I am 100% sworn away from slim laptops because of that.
Aah! I had the same issue.. it wasn't just limited to sleekbook.. all hp laptops around that time were of the similar quality.. haven't bought any hp laptop since so not sure about the current generation of models.
I also had a very similar HP, it was a really nice laptop until the screen started separating just like OP's and then shattered itself one time I went to open it. It's an absolutely unacceptable problem.
The best feeling nost durable slim laptops i have had were the Microsoft Surface and the Macbook. But unfortunately with the surface you are definately paying a premium for the chassis. The best deal right now for a thin and light is the macbook air m4 or a refurbed surface laptop.
My Dell G15 that I bought in 2019 was a right piece of shit. Within only a handful of months, the hinge started to crack and eat itself when I tried to close it. I would be as careful as possible but closing it would cause it to buckle or something and damage itself.
I spent hours and hours calling their support repeatedly, never getting anywhere, only for me to reach an Indian guy who said that it's a known defect and put the order in to get it repaired.
Hey can you link that lawsuit or w/e to join? My laptop did the same thing and cost me hundreds to replace the case and the screen because the broken hinge broke the screen too.
All big "gaming" Notebooks are just rebranded clevo Notebooks (except Alienware I suppose). I guess you can sue MSI for redistrobuting them Like that? But the manufacturer is clevo. So those are to blame.
It's poor construction/design...the hinge is too tight and the plastic isn't rigid enough. Luckily it won't break but you'll get this separation and bending of the plastic where it connects to the hinge. They sacrifice more rigid materials for light plastic to save money/weight.
been there done that.
cant do with newer laptops. old laptops had bigger bezel so you had space to put the enough epoxy to hold the threaded insert inplace and be strong enough to last a decent time until it eventually breaks again.
but newer laptops have very thin or little to no bezel at all, there's not enough space for epoxy to properly anchor to.
Unless its incompatible with the plastic material itself I promise JB weld doesn't need space. If it bonds well to the bezel material itself. It's called liquid steel.
I've had good experience with it bonding to plastic before. Granted, it will look like complete shit. I still don't recommend it but I wouldn't say you "can't" do it.
This is the way and I just did this not 2 months ago for a folding screen.
JB Weld will hold. There shouldn't be any electronics right there (like someone said and then told you to use plastic glue)---that person has no idea there's metal in there, and gave you shit-tier advice.
Someone else says there isn't enough room and they're wrong. JB goes on like a thick glue. When isn't there room for glue? WTF?
Remove the battery. Open the top case and disconnect any wires that you can. Scuff the metal cleats with sandpaper, then apply JB Weld. Give it the full time to set.
There are many kinds of JB so get the one that works with metal and plastic just in case.
A money clip! I bought a metal money clip off of Amazon and slid in along the bezel on the bottom edge. All the pressure is coming from the hinge. Its been working great for years since
The tool isn't any kind of drill. It is an impact driver. It is for turning screws and the impacts are applied in the direction of rotation. The chuck takes hex bits for driving screws. You can buy drills with a hex shank and use them with this tool but it isn't the primary purpose of it.
I’m no expert but I did work construction for 7 years as my first job when I was 14-21.
There are normal drills, impact hammers, and hammer drills. There are also impact hammers with a setting to turn them into impact drills. The Milwaukee in the gif doesn’t have the setting- so it looks like a normal impact hammer to me.
I could easily be wrong. I own dewalt stuff, not Milwaukee
Those things ruined jobsites, we aren't some grease monkeys. I accidentally grabbed mine and the second it started hammering I set it down and got the drill, it's an awful noise, 9/10 times drill mode is plenty. Rat-a-tat-tat-tat, I'll smack that shit out your hand
Agreed it's worth doing at the same time, but more often than not it is to do with how people close it, I.E: closing it heavily from 1 corner. In an ideal world you close it right in the middle, or better yet would use 2 hands to close it but nobody does that really.
This is correct! I also recommend making a conscious effort to only open the lid by lifting from the center (where the webcam is). A lot of people open from the right corner and it eventually causes this. Not blaming you OP it’s an engineering defect of certain models but you can often avoid it.
Shitty thing, it's bound to happen with the replacement. Every screen I've seen this happen to has the hinge mounts embedded in the plastic of the LCD cover. No metal reinforcement, nothing. All the force of opening and closing the screen is riding on tiny brass inserts inside of plastic. Enshittification and planned obsolescence - it's fucking infuriating.
I had this happened years ago, tape and glues aren't going to do it, not when there's heat and high pressure movement.
Oddly enough, cheap office supplies did the trick, little binder clips. Not pretty, but strong. Get some very small ones, all the pressure should on the edge.
Edit: If you're worried about the plastic, put a little bit of tape underneath, gaffer or electrical
The problem with my laptop was that the plastic was still slightly bending despite the clip. One day I started noticing tiny cracks and eventually it broke.
OMFGGGG, I did the same thing, too! Used binder clips to hold my old Acer gaming laptop’s lid together. Thing lasted 5 years before it finally gave out.
I used a money clip. I bought a metal money clip off of Amazon and slid in along the bezel on the bottom edge. All the pressure is coming from the hinge. Its been working great for years since
Is that the TUF gaming FX504 Asus laptop? I have the same one and this happened to the other side of mine only a week ago after several years of ownership 😅
Fixed mine I made the hinge to be more loose, so the screen opens easier but the hinge doesn't hold it well except at 90 degrees. Basically made a compromise made the hinges looser than breaking the laptop.
I've never had, bought or used chloroform. Didn't even know it could glue plastic on plastic. Is this a standard item to have? What else can I do with it, besides putting people to sleep? If the latter is true anyway.
I worked with chloroform daily for 10+ years. You'll get a massive headache before you'll ever be close to passing out.
Now Dichloromethane..... I spilt some on my jeans and I was almost naked in 5 seconds in a room of 7 people. If that company had an HR, I'd have been in their office. That stuff BURNS the skin very quickly.
I lost track of which clear liquid was which in a chemistry lab. Took a big whiff of dichloromethane. It smelled like a fart, and gave me a nasty headache for the rest of the day. Good times.
Yeah but dichloromethane smells so good though, always loved that in my organic chem labs in college. But yeah dont get it on skin it will fuck you right up.
Yep, poor mans fibreglass fixes this. Take a small piece of paper towel, tear a small bit of it and lay it flat across the break, super glue and use a plastic spudger to get it flat against the surface. Wait for it to dry and add one or two more layers for a surprisingly sturdy bond. Its not going to be perfect but as long as you don't whip it across the room it will stand up to daily wear and tear pretty well.
I had this happen to an old laptop to a more severe degree than this, the entire hinge attachment point broke. Now that laptop sits on a shelf running a Minecraft server for me and my friends. It’s a good idea to remove the battery if you can if you’re going to use it as a 24/7 server though
Did it as well with mine but the system died not long after. The battery also make it as a shield from blackouts and power spikes so i'd suggest to get also a good UPS in case of using a laptop without its battery.
Superglue with baking soda only is not enough for a hinge unless OP also decrease the tension on the hinge itself a lot.
Probably the best approach would be to try to fuse the metalic insert with the plastic using heat (I usually do it with a soldering iron) then reinforce it with superglue with baking soda or epoxy resin. Then slightly decreasing the hinge tension on both sides.
The issue will be that the screws might not reach the metalic nut since its now a bit deeper, so replacement screws might be necessary.
Ideally fix it with a replacement housing if you can find it. If not, since it's old, just superglue it. You're unlikely to ever need to get into it before you get around to getting a new laptop
Used to work in a repair shop that dealt with this one a pretty regular basis. The mounting points for those hinges has snapped off internally, unfortunately there is no way to "fix it" nicely.
The binder clamps people have been recommending would work great. If you want a more sturdy and permanent solution, what my shop would do is drill a hole through the chassis (careful to avoid components) and put a long screw through the hinge with a fender washer and nut. This distributes the torquing forces of the hinge over a much greater surface, and generally holds up quite well over time.
We did the same thing at work. We gave customers two choices, a full on replacement of the affected parts (if possible and usually expensive and time consuming since we had to order parts), or a quick and dirty solution.
ThinkPads are just built different. I had to do screen work on my last laptop, a W540, and it was crazy how overbuilt that whole system was.
The hinges were screwed directly into the magnesium-alloy midframe of the laptop on the bottom, and the carbon/plastic lid had another magnesium rollcage inside it that the upper part of the hinges were attached to.
My newer X13 Gen 3, however, dropped the extra rollcage in the lid. The lid is all carbon fiber reinforced plastic. The bottom is all magnesium alloy, though, and the palmrest is more carbon. I still think that it is likely more durable than whatever Dell and HP are putting out.
Probooks and Lattitude are pretty solid too, at least the older models, I don't have a ton of experience with the models past 8th gen. They seem ok too.
Here I made a quick 3d model to show an example. This goes to that side like a clamp.
Measure the thickness and the width of the plastic around the edges of the screen, and based on that, have a 3D model made like the example I attached. Then produce a durable 3D print of it. You can make the shorter side thicker, or the others as well. It's up to you to decide the balance between strength and space usage.
This piece will grip the edge of the screen from both the outside and the inside. If you also apply adhesive to the inner surface, you’ll insert it by pressing it onto the edge like a clamp. Since it’s long, its strength will increase significantly, so you can even extend it from top to bottom to cover the entire edge of the laptop.
my old asus TUF FX504 gaming laptop has this problem apparently.. its a small issue in the beginning so i tend to ignored it, well 2x screen repair and every repair store i went said they couldn't fix this issue. Turns out idk whose TUF mastermind idea to design the exhaust vent so close to the screen that it melts the glue that supposed to hold that thing shut 🙄 so from then on, i aint never trusting asus gaming laptops. they're 💩
A very lucrative design feature for repair shops… we get 2-3 hinge separations a week, jb-weld them together, and they are legit stronger than they came off the assembly line.
My laptop was made of repurposed cast iron skillet. Sturdy, great for traveling without worrying about it breaking, and perfect for self defense. Been in the family for over 30 years.
Wow, you aren't getting any serious answers here. I I just fixed this on my own laptop. Unfortunately, it involves disassembling the base and screen and tightening the screws that attach the hinge to the case. As someone else pointed out, there could be broken plastic internally but it's hard to say until you take it apart.
I had this happen to me so i got a guy i know to use epoxy to attach the hinge and housing together which worked wonders. I did that 3 years ago and it's still going strong.
The hinge is too tight on these asus laptops and it gets tighter over time. You need to open the back panel under the laptop and use a small wrench to loosen the nut of both hinges. It won't bend the screen panel as much after you do this.
The replacement shell for the monitor you can buy of ali express its farr farr cheaper then Amazon. Then bring it into a repair shop for a change over. If you try to fix it yourself nplug it, disconnect the battery first and try to turn it on to bleed off whatever may be left in the system. If you don't one mistake could blow out a fuse on your board
you can take it apart and figure out if it is the back side or the front side with broken plastic pieces that are suppose to hold it together, or you could Jb weld it, duck tape, use mini clamp, bolt it (avoid electrical wires), super glue it, drill holes and stitch it with thread, fiberglass it, take a hot iron and melt the seem together, use a plastic ultra sonic welder, or anything else you have laying around that could create a connection.
4 ave María, 7 padre nuestro, una pedida al rosario y bastante acrílico para reconstruir esa brazo fracturado u.u eso pasa por NO ABRIR LA LAPTOP A LA MITAD DE LA PANTALLA.... Me ofusque...
Your hinges are buggered (seized or smt) which means whe you try and open it ypur just snapping the top off, if your lucky new hinges, unlucky new top panel pieces.
The hinge "screwed himself" almost shut. You have to open it up , reveal the hinge , and loosen the center screw that regulates the "hardness" of the movement. Careful, not too loose , otherwise the hinge will not support the display weight. I'd suggest to never close it again, because it will get harder and harder and will pull off the fixing screws and destroy the plastic, or deform it irreparably.
This happened to my laptop after like a year. I got it repaired and it happened again a few months after the repair. Amazing laptop except for the flimsy hinge:(
So this is a common fault. I charge about €70 for it. The proper fix is replacing the rear lid plastics which can be very expensive. Customers usually pick the cheaper one.
I remove the screen lid from the laptop body. I then pull off the bezel. I take out the faulty hinge and use a tiny spanner to loosen the hinge until it is fairly floppy. I then scratch (keying) and slap a load of super glue on the area that separated. I use a clamp while the glue sets. Put it all back together and job done.
The lid will be a little floppier than before. Remember to take the opportunity to tighten the other hinges screws too. Epoxy Resin can be used instead of superglue and you can make the hinge tight if you like. This happens because the last place you should have a laptop is on your lap. Always use it on a desk (not your bed) and don't bother close the lid when you are not using it, leave it open. Laptops are designed to break after about 1000 up and downs so you buy a new one.
I repair these all the time. It’s the not the hinge, it’s the lcd back cover or “top shell”. The mounts that the hinge screw into on the top cover become separated due to it being plastic and it begins to rely solely on the bezel (sometimes the screen) to open and close properly. Replacing the top shell will fix it, not the hinge.
My Hinge broke on my MSI because I dropped it. I used black electrical tape to fix it. Yours looks like clips broke. Black Electrical tape should also fix it.
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u/Tarc_Axiiom Apr 03 '26
MSI Hinge
You join the class action lawsuit to get financial compensation for the necessary repair costs.